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Liberty 8.25 Disk Conversion Problems

Hoagski

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Indiana
I'm in the process of swapping from drums to disks using liberty parts. After remaning and painting all the JY parts, not to mention rebuilding the diff :flamemad: I seem to be running in to a problem where the centering hub will not ride on the stock wheels anymore it sits back because the rotors are thicker than the drums, will this be a problem? My understanding is that I wouldn't want all the weight riding on the studs versus spreading the weight out on to the axle? I've been diving into the forums but so far I haven't seen anyone mention this (except below) as a concern. Am I just overthinking this? I'd post a picture, but I don't have that ability.


Nice writeup...I am in process of doing a similar swap. 97CV on XJD44.

I have noticed that the disks are thicker than the drums... Does the thickness of the rotor move the wheel/tire off the very center hub of the axle? I found that I can stick a feeler gauge in to about .006.

Has anybody else noticed this ?
 
You can go to an aftermarket shaft that has a taller hat, but in general, its not really a big problem. 5 .500" studs are way more than enough to support the weight of your vehicle.
 
XJ and KJ Liberty rims are more or less identical, and interchange. Once the lug nuts clamp the rim to the axle shaft flange with compression forces, the weight of the Jeep is transferred to the axle shaft flanges.

Lots of Jeep owners use generic lug centric steel rims with extra large center openings with no problems.
 
Thanks I thought it would be fine. Had some extra axles laying around so I'm going to cut and weld some longer centering hubs on just for the heck of it. I'm so deep into my DD restore at this point I figured "might as well".
 
X2, I sure wouldn't do that !!!!
 
I never considered that. Why would that be a problem? Would you be so far out on the shaft that, especially in a non critical area, you wouldn't be messing with the metals properties? Also don't guys shorten axles all the time for hot rods?
 
Do you even know the %/properties/make-up of the metal on your shafts. In a controlled environment and regrinding like a crankshaft, yes. The welder I bought for crankshafts(sub-merged arc) cost about $50,000 dollars in 1970!
 
Nothing needs to be welded or altered, just bolt on the rims.
 
Do you even know the %/properties/make-up of the metal on your shafts. In a controlled environment and regrinding like a crankshaft, yes. The welder I bought for crankshafts(sub-merged arc) cost about $50,000 dollars in 1970!

No not really, I did do a hardness test on the end where I would be welding vs. farther in on the shaft and the outside metal is much softer. I've talked to a couple of welders, one is an xj guy, and all have said if you don't use to much heat and use some cold rags beneath where you are welding to dissipate the heat you will have no problems.
 
I'm going to go through with it today. I'll report back here down the road to let you all know if I screwed it up or if it works out.
 
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