Rusty's Long Travel Yoke

Anyone have any information on this product? Just wondering if it would be a good idea to have this on my XJ? I don't want to spend the cash on the SYE, so this seems like a good alternative (if I even need it).

I've got a 2" BB which seems to be closer to 2.5" in the rear. I've already installed a 1" tc drop, but the driveline is still a little off (need to shim it).

While I'm at it, I might as well ask what degree shims I should use?

Thanks!!!

treadLightly said:

Anyone have any information on this product? Just wondering if it would be a good idea to have this on my XJ? I don't want to spend the cash on the SYE, so this seems like a good alternative (if I even need it).

I've got a 2" BB which seems to be closer to 2.5" in the rear. I've already installed a 1" tc drop, but the driveline is still a little off (need to shim it).

While I'm at it, I might as well ask what degree shims I should use?

Thanks!!!

Click to expand...

I did a search on "yoke" and got back 16 pages of info. Within those pages I'm sure you would find that long travel yokes only provide 3/16" extra length. Their real benefit is to provide extra u-joint clearance. You will also find that they are not a substitute for a SYE because they don't address they same problems that a SYE does.

Do a search on driveshaft or angle and you'll probably get a similar amount of info which will include measuring your angles as the first step to resolving drive line vibes.

Have fun.

P.S.

I have Rusty's "high clearance" yoke. If you run a slip yoke and need the extra clearance, It's a good value that does it's intended job well.

I got one for sale

This worked fine. I used it because my drive shaft was too short. I now got longer shafts and this part was only used on the pavement for 6 months. Mail me if interested and I'll send you some pictures.

james

[email protected]

http://geocities.com/jammerjamesharmon/

have Rusty's "high clearance" yoke. If you run a slip yoke and need the extra clearance, It's a good value that does it's intended job well.

The rusty's unit is just a YJ slip yoke, go to the junk yard and get one for 10.00

I now find every chance to talk people away from rusty's products. A friend of mine and I have purchased several different kits from steering to suspension. Even though you explain to him everything you are trying to do he will sell you stuff that will not work. Then he will not give you any service. I have been waiting two months for replacement springs from him. I had death wobble until I removed his lower control arms and the problem went away. He will not do anything about that either. He has some good ideas and ok products but he will not stand behind any of them!

Take your whining somewhere else. :rattle:

isn't a forum for your personal vendetta.

I agree with Max. Go cry somewhere else.

I've bought a LOT of parts from Rusty over the past 4 years I've been messing with MJs & XJs. I've never had an issue with any of his suspension or steering parts, and everything ordered has been shipped promptly and arrived intact.

Back on topic...I am unclear if his long-travel yoke is the same as the (Spicer) YJ OEM piece, but if it is, it'll help for approx 5/16" of length correction and the yoke 'throat' is a lot more open - for better clearance. Well before Rusty offered one, I bought a YJ yoke from the Stealership...paid about $100 IIRC I advise that as the source of last resort but it was shiny & purdy. Presently running it with +6" lift & 1" 231 t-case drop. Works fine for me.

As for the BB, I bet it'll settle in as you use it...or as the OEM springs sag a bit.

For a two-joint rear driveshaft, you want the pinion yoke pointed approx 1* below the slip yoke - at normal ride height. You need an angle finder ($10 at the local home-imrpv store) and compare what you have now...maybe add a bit of extra weight to the rear? The valve cover 'should' be on the same rearward slope as the T case output/yoke...so adjust the rear pinion up to 1* less than that #. I think the shims come in 2* increments, so if I had to guess, I'd go with a 2* and see how that helps. Alternately, you could maybe tweak the TC drop depth to find a 'sweet spot'

Tom Woods website has pictures of this, if my description is not clear. www.4xshaft.com

I'd advise getting STEEL shims as opposed to the cast aluminum. I've had one woller out the bolt hole and go AWOL. Lesson learned, steel is good and checking those U Bolts once in awhile - snugging as needed- is good time spent...

HTH and good luck with you latemodel. These with the 8.25 axle seem hardest to tune the vibes out of.

Thanks for all the detailed info woody! It's a big help!!!

It is definitely a PITA trying to fine tune the driveline with the 8.25.

Best of all, your 2000 ALREADY has the bigger yoke...it is of no use to you. Ask me how I know...

TOZOVR said:

Best of all, your 2000 ALREADY has the bigger yoke...it is of no use to you. Ask me how I know...

Click to expand...

ok,



















how do you know?

Back in the day i bought one, went to install it and was a little bummed to find out I'd bought it all for naught....

When I looked for a longer yoke, I contacted RE and Rustys. RE told me they do not offer it for the NP242 because the OEM is the same part as the one they sell for the np231. They told me the NP242 has the longer yoke already....never confirmend this, but I believed them; why would they lose a sale.

XJguy

I have the longer yoke as we speak. It is serving its purpose of allowing steeper drive shaft angles but hasn't removed any vibes. As far as vibes go I am letting mine go to see what the long term results will be. Kind of stupid I guess but I am curious. So far I have a leaking rear main and front main seal. Vibes cause the rear main to leak. My wifes TJ only has 19,000 miles on it and has some vibes from the 4" lift and the rear main is starting to leak as well. Don't know if this helps but I wanted to give my 2 cents. Good luck Doug