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Tapping cross member frame nut next size up?s

4

4x4JeePmaNthINg

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Colorado
I'm trying to get rid of a TC drop I have for my np 242. It's chewing motor mounts up.

Anyway what is the next bolt size up that I should drill/ tap any that break to?


Thank you for your assistance
 
You have to be careful because you are dealing the equivalent of nut-certs. IIRC I went to 7/16-14?
 
I had good luck moving from metric to the closest larger bolt size in standard in the cross member. They torqued to spec without any troubles and have been removable and re-installable. I carefully drilled out the broken bolt and then stepped the hole size up with the drill bit for the tap.
 
I'm curious how important the thread pitch is to strength? Fine thread on a 10.9 bolt, these have more thread engagement, but a suitable strength.

Thoughts?
 
You need to try and match the pitch now for more material strength.
 
I have used 7/16 and 1/2". Both work fine. Need to drill to do 1/2".
 
I forget what exact size, but obviously the next size up and I just used a self-tapping bolt and some loctite.
 
I would have been happy to drill and tap to the next size but the nuts for the studs broke the welds.



Drilled all of them out and welded new flange nuts into the frame rails.


cv1qbzz.jpg
 
When in installed the uni stiffs i cut that area out on the uni and made up a 3/16 plate with new 7/16 nuts. Welded that in then roset welded the plate and uni stiffs. Now this thing wont ever see salt so a rusted nutsert is prob never going to happen. But i still hate them and nothing brings the suck to an easy unbolt like a spinning sert.
 
Mach2nh said:
When in installed the uni stiffs i cut that area out on the uni and made up a 3/16 plate with new 7/16 nuts. Welded that in then roset welded the plate and uni stiffs. Now this thing wont ever see salt so a rusted nutsert is prob never going to happen. But i still hate them and nothing brings the suck to an easy unbolt like a spinning sert.
Click to expand...
^ Sounds like the best way to get a nut welded in the right place. I'm doing stiffs next, with an end goal of long arms and beefy crossmember. Really like this idea.

Still trying to decide between mid arms and longs to a crossmember but will need a removable crossmember anyway.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
 
4x4JeePmaNthINg said:
Holy cow man. Was it difficult to square up the newly welded In nuts.?
Click to expand...


Not at all. Just tack welded one side of the nut allowing the other side to hang slightly. with a longer bolt threaded in I simply hammered the nut flush to the frame rail, insured it was plumb, welded it in, grind and done.


Mach2nh When in installed the uni stiffs i cut that area out on the uni and made up a 3/16 plate with new 7/16 nuts. Welded that in then roset welded the plate and uni stiffs. Now this thing wont ever see salt so a rusted nutsert is prob never going to happen. But i still hate them and nothing brings the suck to an easy unbolt like a spinning sert.
Click to expand...
In hinds sight, This would have been better but I didn't want to open up the frame to put the nut strip in. Oh well, the repair is solid and it won't be going back to the rust belt so it should last as long as I need it.
 
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