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89 4.0 leaks oil, pan, filter housing, main

RangerRick

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Longmont, Colo.
Here's the question... Should I pull the engine or pull the automatic transmission or both to fix all these oil leaks?
 
I did the rear main on my 89 and it was not hard at all. I have a 6 inch lift though. If your sitting stock it will be a bear to remove the oil pan. The worst part is the contiuous raining of oil on your driveway and your face (use protection).The filter adapter is no big deal either. Good luck
 
debacle04 said:
I did the rear main on my 89 and it was not hard at all. I have a 6 inch lift though. If your sitting stock it will be a bear to remove the oil pan. The worst part is the contiuous raining of oil on your driveway and your face (use protection).The filter adapter is no big deal either. Good luck

I have an 89 with no lift and it was not too hard. I jacked up the body and was able to get the pan out. Took a little bit of work though. Next time, I would probably remove the starter. Hopefully, there will not be a next time!
 
Thanks for the info on not seperating the engine and trans.
It has a factory Off-Road lift. Can I get more clearence for the pan gskt by disconnecting the shocks?
 
If you have oil leaks I suggest you start at the top of the engine and work to the lower level gaskets.

1) Remove valve cover, clean and reinstall either with RTV gasket on the cover OR install an aftermaket gasket. Use a torque wrench to tighten all 15 bolts. The rear bolts become loose and begin to leak, a leaking valve cover can look like a rear main seal leak.

2) The Oil filter mount uses 3 O-rings. Buy there at the dealer. There a good write up on this at www.madxj.com under larger oil fitler or something like that. I HIGHTLY recommend you change out the passenger side engine mount if you change the O rings. You have to remove the oil filter mount to change the mount, might as well kill 2 birds with one stone. IF you change this one mount then change the other engine mount and trans mount.

3) The oil pan gasket should be done when you do the rear main. Buy the one piece pan gasket at the dealer, beats the 4 piece gasket you get from fel pro and other vendors. IF you change the rear main seal then buy the fel pro 2 lip seal. The rear main leaks because a groove is work in the crankshaft. If you use a 2 lip seal then one lip will run on a virgn portion of the crankshaft.

You may solve your oil leaks with a valve cover and oil fitler mount change. Wait on pulling the pan till it a "must".
 
Don´t forget to replace or clean the crankcase ventilation tube, the small one from the back of the valve cover to the intake manifold. I´ve had rear main bearing seal seeps, all but dry up, after cleaning the vent tubes and changing to a 10-40 oil.
 
I've changed the V-cover gskt with no change in leakage. This XJ has oil drips
from the front to the rear of the engine. The motor mounts are OK. I'm trying to sell this one, but don't want to saddle anyone with these bad oil leaks. The radiator quick connects for the automatic may be leaking also. What a mess. Thanks for all the help.
 
RangerRick said:
I've changed the V-cover gskt with no change in leakage. This XJ has oil drips
from the front to the rear of the engine. The motor mounts are OK. I'm trying to sell this one, but don't want to saddle anyone with these bad oil leaks. The radiator quick connects for the automatic may be leaking also. What a mess. Thanks for all the help.

Those radiator connects are fun aren't they, - great info on this thread and timely too as my XJ started leaking recently. good luck Rick
 
A trick to give you clearance for the oil pan it to take the stock XJ jack, flip it upside down and place it between the front axle and the unibody/frame. That way you can jack up the body easily and the jack is pretty secure. This also works well for changing springs.
 
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