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Stripped rear upper shock bolts

lrsmithwhaley

NAXJA Forum User
Location
MO
Well I got the rear lifted...it's about 3in, and I was gunning for 2-2.5in. OH well. Anyways it seems that 3 out of the 4 upper shock bolts(the threads) stipped(not broken). Does anyone by chance know what size they are? Also would I be able to just use a self tapping bolt, or would that be bad? I will have pics tomorrow of the Dragster look. Hopefully after I trim the front fenders.
 
Yup very common, i drilled mine out made some bpe's and used a bolt in its place. I just taped a nut to a wrench and there is just enough room to get it in the body to accept a new bolt. Did you remove your swaybar? you can use the mounts from it to make a BPE. Some people cut the floor to get to the top of the bolts to get the weld nuts off but, I would say its unecessary.
 
Can you get to all 4 using the wrench method? Looked like only two last time I was under there. If it's possible I'll give it a shot when I change out my shocks as I know they will break. Here in MI those are an automatic when you replace shocks. I will make BPE's for the spot from my collection of swaybar links (I have 6 now I think)
 
What about drilling a small hole to mark center then go inside and use a small hole saw to open a hole large enough for a bolt to drop through then use a body plug to fill the hole??
 
You don't have to cut anything to put the new nuts or bolts in. I've done it both ways and you can get any sized bolt you want in through the crossmember access holes or you could tape or super glue or put bubble gum on the nut, put it on a boxed end wrench and put it in there. All it takes is patience and you won't have to cut anything. Personally, I prefer larger threads to the fine threaded bolts as its harder to strip out or crossthread them. Get a 2" bolt, widen the bolt hole slightly if you need so that the new bolt can fit, and then put it in from the top. Its very easy if you know what you're doing. If you have a snake light, it would come in very handy as you're gonna have your head in the crossmember access and you probably wont be able to get a flashlight in there. Just work with it and its really easy.

p.s. as far as getting the old nuts out, they're only spot welded in, so a punch or screw driver and a hammer, you will be able to easily knock the old nuts out.
 
p.s. as far as getting the old nuts out, they're only spot welded in, so a punch or screw driver and a hammer, you will be able to easily knock the old nuts out.
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Torch the head of the bolt off this will leave the bolt shank that you just hit with a BFH.
Then use a square nut in it's place. In many cases they will hold them self from turning and if you need to use a open end. Square nut don't round out the comers like hex nut will with a open end..
 
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All I did was drill out the old and put a self tapper in the hole where the old one came out.... I have not had any issues so far...
 
One of my rear shock bolts has always been a larger diameter than the rest, needing a bar pin with a suitably larger opening at one end. It appears that the nut was stripped or the thread malformed at the factory. The production line fix was to retap the thread next size up. I've had five sets of shocks on since new (1993) and I've reused the original bar pin and bolt each time. No idea what thread it is, never bothered to measure it.
 
lrsmithwhaley said:
Maybe, I should clarify. I got the bolts out, the threads are stripped. Would a self tapping bolt work?

No, a self tapping bolt is not designed to tap into an existing bolt. The strength will be mimimal at best. Your best bet is to knock out the old nuts and put new ones in with new bolts. Super simple and only about $1.50 more.
 
right, the nuts are probably harder than the self tapper would want to drill thru, and it would most likely tear the welds off and spin.

a little bwapp with the air chisel and they pop right out, then you can do the bolt behind the mount thing
 
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