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XJ radiators, a review.

maxbraketorque said:
Summit brand:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-382012/make/jeep/model/cherokee/year/2000

Its probably a relabeled version of another brand, but I don't know which. There was nothing on the radiator to indicate.
Click to expand...

That's got pretty small tube sizes but should work in normal conditions, but I live in the desert with much higher ambient temperatures that require more cooling. The Summit aluminum does look promising as I've been running the Griffin for 5 yrs now with great results.
 
maxbraketorque said:
Summit brand:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-382012/make/jeep/model/cherokee/year/2000

Its probably a relabeled version of another brand, but I don't know which. There was nothing on the radiator to indicate.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Had just found it with some search effort.

My cooling system has been fine but for future reference, and since I can't leave well enough alone, I've been perusing the Coolant Filter thread from some years ago and came across the radiator review thread. I've never been a fan of aluminum radiators and an electric fan farm.
Maybe I'll do a flush and call it good.
 
NOTNSUV said:
Thanks. Had just found it with some search effort.

My cooling system has been fine but for future reference, and since I can't leave well enough alone, I've been perusing the Coolant Filter thread from some years ago and came across the radiator review thread. I've never been a fan of aluminum radiators and an electric fan farm.
Maybe I'll do a flush and call it good.
Click to expand...

I have 1-row radiator now, so I'm pretty sure that I'll see a benefit to the Summit 2-row. If you have a 2-row now, the Summit probably wouldn't get you anything.

It was interesting to see another thread either here or on another XJ forum where the OP had a lot of rust build-up on the cooling passages, and after a rust removal flush, that XJ ran appreciably closer to the tstat set point. Perhaps not surprising, but still interesting to see a positive result.
 
I,ve been running that Summit radiator for years,no problems. Even when used in Moab.
 
The Summit radiator definitely looks very similar to the CSF 2-row, but there are a few differences that make me think that it may not actually be a CSF radiator:

1) The lower trans cooler fitting is threaded (NPT?) female fitting rather than a tube.

2) The CSF 3-row radiator that cal reviewed in 2018 has a Made in Indonesia sticker on it, but the Summit 2-row is made in Mexico.

3) The stated core dimensions are slightly different between the CSF and Summit.

Overall, the Summit looks nicely made. The radiator inlet and outlet stubs are actually round. But as I said, I haven't installed it yet, so I don't how well it fits.
 
Figured I would add my .02 to this thread since I have had cooling issues. I will second Cal's experience with Mishimoto and the passages getting clogged. The first Mishimoto was installed with the original 4.0. I then built a 4.6 stroker (Russ Pottenger kit) with a very mild build , almost identical to Mark Wolfe's. I flushed the block multiple times after the break in procedure. Each time, I would see rust particles or iron on the radiator's magnetic drain plug. I then did the citric acid flush thinking that everything needed to be cleaned out.

Still had cooling issues. Jeep was still running hot. I was already bypassing the radiator for the transmission cooling lines and running a small B&M cooler. I decided to upgrade the B&M to a larger unit. The transmission cooler is installed in front of the AC condensor on the mechanical fan side.

Still running hot. I took an infrared gun and measured temps across the radiator and found that the bottom was 30 degrees cooler than the top. I suspected the radiator was clogged from the previous engine or prior to the citric flush. I also had a stripped overflow tube fitting in the Mishimoto and fortunately they warrantied the radiator. It was much appreciated, because as soon as I installed it, my cooling issues were solved and the temps across the radiator were within 10 degrees from top to bottom.

So I thought. During really warm days (110 ambient temps) with the AC running I was running 230 degrees at idle. Mopar water pump, Mopar coolant temp sensor, Napa standard XJ fan clutch, 195 thermostat, and TYC electric fan from Amazon, and holes cut in my hood to exhaust hot air.

I bought a 10" SPAL fan from summit and made a custom aluminum fan shroud. I suspected the TYC was junk and I was right. The Spal fan pulled way more CFM than the TYC and on those hot days, I would creep up to 220 at idle and never really further.

My Jeep with camping gear, tools, etc weighs 5200lbs verified on a CAT scale. Going up the 168 from Fresno to Shaver lake in 105 degree weather, I was running 55mph and hit 232 degrees with the AC off. That was the best I could get.

Recently, I drove from San Diego to Kanab Utah, with the same amount of weight and now have cooling issues yet again. With 80 degree ambient temps, I was hitting 245 degrees going up Baker grade. I suspected a bad fan clutch so when I got to Kanab, I replaced the fan clutch, flushed the cooling system and dropped in a 180 degree thermostat. Once again, there was rust particles on the drain plug. Once again, the infared temp reading was 30 degrees cooler at the bottom of the radiator compared to the top.

At this point, I'm kicking myself for not installing a coolant filter. And now, I'm on a quest for yet another radiator.
 
I should also mention that it will not run hot at idle or going downhill with very little load on the engine. Soon as the engine is under load, the temps rise. And it's been almost a year since the radiator was replaced.
 
maxbraketorque said:
I have 1-row radiator now, so I'm pretty sure that I'll see a benefit to the Summit 2-row. If you have a 2-row now, the Summit probably wouldn't get you anything.



It was interesting to see another thread either here or on another XJ forum where the OP had a lot of rust build-up on the cooling passages, and after a rust removal flush, that XJ ran appreciably closer to the tstat set point. Perhaps not surprising, but still interesting to see a positive result.
Click to expand...
Remember what he used to flush it? I've seen inside of the water jacket. I've dumped mud from my res. Probably a good idea

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 
denverd1 said:
Remember what he used to flush it? I've seen inside of the water jacket. I've dumped mud from my res. Probably a good idea

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Sorry I don't remember, but I would try the Prestone or Evaporust, both of which claim to be non-toxic and non-acidic while still dissolving the rust into the water. I've used Evaporust at work, and it is effective on steels.

https://www.amazon.com/Prestone-AS105-Radiator-Flush-Cleaner/dp/B00B99U088

https://www.amazon.com/Evapo-Rust-O...utomotive&sprefix=evapo,automotive,238&sr=1-4
 
I am going through a flush process on my present build. I did put in a DPG CS All metal radiator. I used it in another XJ for a few years. So, basically clean. I replaced the hoses, a used but good NAPA water pump, and replaced the Thermostat. I put in new Z05 Coolant mixed 50/50 last year. with the old radiator or another I had on hand. The coolant came out chocolate when draining to change to the All Metal radiator. So, I've been trying to flush it.
I have tried, Preston, Blue Devil, then Evaporust, MAC's, Vinegar. All worked to an extent. Also, used CLR last night, about 1/2 a bottle. Some of this I did not leave in for a day or two. Temps were/are getting in the mid 30's. I want to try ZEREX next.
Preston did OK. I think using it as a Pre-Flush. I hear it is Citric Acid based. I have used Citric Acid on my MB with good results. I might try 2-3 bottles of Preston. More on this below.
The Blue Devil did good. I think a bit better than Prestone. I think I only left it in for a day.
Evaporust I used in the Radiator formula. I remember one of the Board members using this and having good results. I think I left it in for two days. The fluid came out black with a tinge of green to it. I think more rust neutralization.
NAPA's MAC's the lgihter 20 minute flush I was not impressed. I used it twice. I was looking for the Prestone. Someone bought the last bottle. I used Prestone again a bit latter.
Vinergar did OK. 1 gallon of it mixed with 1 gal of water.

I did take out the heater core of the system flow at some point. I think there is junk jammed up in the bottom. I plan to buy a new brass one.
I'll see about trying ZEREX if I can find some. Some guy on BITOG seemed to like it.

Citric Acid Flush. Mercedes Benz sells a plastic bottle of this. I used it on my MB 240D. Possibly twice. The hoses on it looked like the pictures of Bad Hoses in a Chiltons Manual. I bought 1/2 lb from a Wine Making place the second time. Mix 1/2 lb. with 1 gal. of hot water. Preferably distilled. Fill up with that, then top off with distilled water. Run at least 30 minutes. I think I ran a few hours. Drain and flush, flush flush. I did mix baking soda or such to neutralize the acid. Some say you don't need to. Then flush, flush etc.

Presently, I am getting a light tinge of brown. Say a weak tea. I think there is a dirt caking on the rear #6 outer or coolant jacket wall. I notice such on a 4.0L I have in another XJ, when I replaced the freeze plugs. I do not see as mush or much metal particles. Especially, when I took out the heater core. I am still working on this. I'll try and update.
I did take off the water pump and hose water in there. It was clean. Also, the radiator.

Edit: I bought the Blue Devil Complete Radiator Flush last night. I could not find the ZEREX. I used the BD regular stuff last time. The Complete is their Heavy Duty Flush. Leave in no more than 4 hours. I'll post an update. Still, I have this nearly clean. I think its just a patch of dirt on the rear water passage in the block.
 
Last edited:
I had the same problems with my mishimoto. It ran fine at first last summer, no issues in the winter up here in north Idaho (obviously), but as it hit spring time I started having issues where the temp would just creep up, especially on the highway at speed. Ambient temps were low 80s and I’d hit over 220 on the gauge at 70mph. I flushed the system 3 times, put springs in my lower hose, a hesco pump and thermo housing, “high flow” thermostat, new heater core last year, new hoses, ZJ fan clutch, manual AC fan switch, no change. Finally I yanked the mishimoto and put my autozone special back in, and it’s been fine, about 200-205 on the gauge on the highway around 75-80F. Think I’m just gonna run that this summer and see how it does.
 
Oh and I was having some particles that the magnet on the drain plug was picking up too. When I read Cal’s blockage problems that’s what tipped me off to maybe it was blocked.
 
My cummins pickup has a very badly plugged coolant system. Rust mud chunks. My only complaint is heater barely works when Temps drop way down.

I flushed it myself numerous times then payed 180 and had a shop flush it. Heater blew hot for about a day. I gave up on it.

Then one day I was in CAT I asked about coolant system flush , looking for the good stuff. He recommended dawn dish soap lol. And if that doesn't help to flush again with nothing run it for a few days then bring a fluid sample in. The lab would analyze it and decide what chemicals to use to go about tackling the problem

I've flushed with multiple bought chemicals citric acid, vinegar and dawn dish soap. Of them all the dish soap smells the best. Need to get back to CAT with the fluid sample

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
Evan03 said:
My cummins pickup has a very badly plugged coolant system. Rust mud chunks. My only complaint is heater barely works when Temps drop way down.

I flushed it myself numerous times then payed 180 and had a shop flush it. Heater blew hot for about a day. I gave up on it.

Then one day I was in CAT I asked about coolant system flush , looking for the good stuff. He recommended dawn dish soap lol. And if that doesn't help to flush again with nothing run it for a few days then bring a fluid sample in. The lab would analyze it and decide what chemicals to use to go about tackling the problem

I've flushed with multiple bought chemicals citric acid, vinegar and dawn dish soap. Of them all the dish soap smells the best. Need to get back to CAT with the fluid sample

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Cascade dish washer soap is another option I hear works.
 
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