disc conversion

Hey all I'm doing drums to disc conv. on my 93 cherokee. My problem is it's a 8 1/4 with 4:56 gears and locker and I have never worked on one before. HELP PLEASE.

if your question is about being able to take out the axle shafts, you have to drain the diff, pop the diff cover off, pull the c clips (a magnet works well), then you can take out the shafts... i assume it's a no-slip or other lunchbox style locker... for future reference when posting questions, follow through and ask a question, don't just say here's my vague problem. anything else? post it up.

What's your question????

What locker is in it and what kit are you installing?

So yeah, you'll pull the axles out, grind out the backing plates from the ZJ and bolt them in, install all the e-brake hardware, put the axles back in and refill the diff.

performance wise, how much does this noticably help? i'm sure the parts can't be that expensive from a junkyard..

My rears don't lock up as quick as they did with the drums. I run a 27" tire so I don't know about the woes of trying to stop bigger, heavier tires and steel wheels. I have a 96, which already has the dual diaphragm booster. I figure the people that do the swap and upgrade boosters will notice the differences more. I'm sure the discs don't fade as much as the drums, either. All in all, I feel it was worth the $150 it cost me to do the swap.

Mine stops better now on 35's then it ever did stock. And I have not upgraded the booster or used the zj prop valve. There is no fade that I could notice, and they self clean from mud very well. All the parts for mine came from a u pull it junk yard and cost me 48 dollars.

My last Jeep had a Dana 35 and didn't have a C clip so I didn't have a problem but this one is an 8 1/4 and does and I'm not sure where it is and what it looks like. Once I've figured that out and remove it, what will it do to the locker? Will it drop?

I got the plates, calipers, prop valve, and e-brake cables at the JY and bought new rotors, pads, and hardware at Advanced.

badboys said:

My last Jeep had a Dana 35 and didn't have a C clip so I didn't have a problem but this one is an 8 1/4 and does and I'm not sure where it is and what it looks like. Once I've figured that out and remove it, what will it do to the locker? Will it drop?

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The c-clips are in slots on both sides of the cross pin. Like i said, use a magnet to get them out. then unbolt the cross pin's retaining bolt, and remove the cross pin. pull out the driver's side shaft (if you were just installing the locker i'd say only pull it out 6" but where you need to install the brakes too, just take that side completely out. remove the driver's side driver and spacer, then the passenger's side driver and spacer, then the couplers. and now you can take out the other shaft completely. assemble in reverse order. not to flame, but if you don't know what any of the parts i just talked about are, search. there are a few .pdf manuals i found. for instance, first hit on google for "no-slip installation instructions"

www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PDFs/New Jun 2003/Powertrax no-slip installation guide.pdf

Captain Ruggy said:

Mine stops better now on 35's then it ever did stock. And I have not upgraded the booster or used the zj prop valve. There is no fade that I could notice, and they self clean from mud very well. All the parts for mine came from a u pull it junk yard and cost me 48 dollars.

Click to expand...

I planned on doing the you-pull it. I like that number. 48 is not expensive... :looney: i should have done it when i put my locker in a month ago... oh well.

Yes the parts were very reasonable, I did get new rotors and pads though. I think the rotors were around 20 each and the pads were around 20. But if you find one with good rotors, you may be ok.

Thanks to all, pull a 94 apart in the junkyard today no problem. Got the booster/mc plus calipers and all the brackets for 75 bucks:shhh: