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Jeep door hinge repair kit

JEEParon

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Sandy, OR (PDX)
I have a 95 4door sport, and ive had it for about a year and the driver door has always creaked and popped. Well a few days ago the welds finally broke on the upper hinge. I did a search and found its a common problem and that Chysler has put out a bulletin and a repair kit for it. http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/DoorHingeRepair.pdf

I was wondering if anyone has gotten the kit and repaired it them selves, and if its a difficult repair or not. Anyone know exactly what comes with the repair kit and if its possible to rent the required pnuematic rivet gun somewhere to complete the job. Also im guessing that i would need to grind off the old welds but it doesnt say for sure in the instructions on the link i gave. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
 
Someone here did a much stronger repair of this problem - they cut away the mess behind where the hinge was, bolted in a piece of 1/4" plate, then bolted the hinge to it in the proper location.

Here it is: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=986973

EDIT: pulling the fender is going to be the worst part of the job, the boltstrips holding the flare on are a complete pain in the ass - usually every single one of them breaks. I fabbed up a nice replacement set for mine by finding the most rust-free strips I could at the local junkyard, grinding the old bolt stubs out, and tack welding new #10-24 1.5" bolts in. The OEM bolts are M6 or M8 I think (whichever has a 10mm nut) but it's not critical, and my local home depot didn't have bulk packs of metric bolts so I used SAE.
 
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Someone here did a much stronger repair of this problem - they cut away the mess behind where the hinge was, bolted in a piece of 1/4" plate, then bolted the hinge to it in the proper location.

Here it is: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=986973

Ya i have been reading that. MY only issue is figuring out exactly where the hinge mounts to the plate once the old mounting surface is cut out. Maybe i missed something in the write up but im racking my brain trying to figure it out. i dont wanna mess it up
 
I put that kit on my 94 2dr a few years ago. It made a pretty significant difference. You do want to make sure and lift that door up BEFORE you drill for the pop rivets.

Unfortunately, if you've already broken the welds, I wouldn't install this particular kit.
 
I put that kit on my 94 2dr a few years ago. It made a pretty significant difference. You do want to make sure and lift that door up BEFORE you drill for the pop rivets.

Unfortunately, if you've already broken the welds, I wouldn't install this particular kit.

There are two kits. one for 75% or less damage and one for 75% or more damage. The 75% or more kit wont work if its broken off completly?
 
I'd fix a completely broken hinge first. Not to say that it won't work, but I'd give it some help.
 
I didn,t read all the links,but i Did have my door repaired with one of the kits.
Kit A #05083060AA-is the kit for less than 75% weld separation.
Kit B #05083061AA-for more than 75% tear and door needs to be lifted to close
I had kit A done in about 1 hr at a pro shop $60.

Kit B calls for 3 hrs to do the job. Door and kick panel are removed ,a plate is installed and new holes drilled.New hinge is bolted on and riveted too.
Nothing about grinding or welding--in this fix.

Wayne
 
I don't know the story behind it but the upper hinge on my beater has been repaired, and while it was obviously done very thoroughly it makes the upper half of the door stick out some. Basically they removed the old hinge, riveted a patch over the sheetmetal, welded the hinge to that and sealed it all up. Very clean, very strong, but since they welded the hinge outside the patch it is like 1/8th inch further out, and of course the line between the two hinges is amplified at the top of the door so there is a good 1/2" gap up there. It cannot be corrected without removing the hinge and redoing the repair.
 
Someone here did a much stronger repair of this problem - they cut away the mess behind where the hinge was, bolted in a piece of 1/4" plate, then bolted the hinge to it in the proper location.

Here it is: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=986973

EDIT: pulling the fender is going to be the worst part of the job, the boltstrips holding the flare on are a complete pain in the ass - usually every single one of them breaks. I fabbed up a nice replacement set for mine by finding the most rust-free strips I could at the local junkyard, grinding the old bolt stubs out, and tack welding new #10-24 1.5" bolts in. The OEM bolts are M6 or M8 I think (whichever has a 10mm nut) but it's not critical, and my local home depot didn't have bulk packs of metric bolts so I used SAE.
Why would you even pull the flare off? All you need to do is remove the one bolt where the little brace attaches. If it breaks off just bend the bracket so it can be attatched in a slightly different location (but still behind the flare) and run a self tapper through it..

FWIW you could probably get away with not even removing the bracket and just bend it enough to give yourself the room to work.
 
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