HP44 Full width Swap

I have a HP44 out of a 1979 F-250 with 4.88's going under my jeep with H1 wheels and 36 inch tires. The ford had a pitman arm and steering linkage that dropped to the driver side, as you all should know our jeeps drop to the passenger side.

Is there anyway to use the steering linkage that drops to the drivers side or will my steering be backwards if I use that?

I can't picture if it would work correctly or not. I have been out of it for a while now.

just do a full hydraulic setup

bigjeepman said:

I have a HP44 out of a 1979 F-250 with 4.88's going under my jeep with H1 wheels and 36 inch tires. The ford had a pitman arm and steering linkage that dropped to the driver side, as you all should know our jeeps drop to the passenger side.

Is there anyway to use the steering linkage that drops to the drivers side or will my steering be backwards if I use that?

I can't picture if it would work correctly or not. I have been out of it for a while now.

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I don't think going to the drivers side knuckle will work. It would result in a short steep draglink and you have severe bumpsteer with no way to line it up with your track bar. I have the same axle in my XJ, I used a new draglink and tierod and attached the draglink to the tie rod in an inverted T setup. I move the trackbar mount up above the axle so that it was parallel with my tierod on highsteer arms.

Well you have two real options :

1. Have the passenger side knuckle machined to except a high steer arm and go high steer.

2. go to hiems with a single shear bolt on the passenger side knuckle and stack the drag link and tierod .I don't like this option

You are best of going to a high steer arm.You will also have to have a custom drag link made for it unless you plan on having the axle shortened.

The other problem you will have to solve is how to get over the drivers side spring perch .it will have to be shaved about 3/4" to make the coil spring perch fit in the right spot.





The other thing you will have to change is the location of the drag link to go with the new steering.Also you will have to fabricate new coil perches and control arm mounts or purchase RE bracket kit and modify it to work.

If the H1's have not been recentered you will have to run spacers to keep the rims out of the steering. I run spacers all the way around with H1's because of their backspacing they can get into steering and suspension depending on the setup and tires.

Even with the TNT truss you will still have to cut the leaf spring perch on the driver side.

Wil Badger said:

Even with the TNT truss you will still have to cut the leaf spring perch on the driver side.

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No You do not have to cut the leaf spring perch I have a Dana 44 I just finshed and got under my Jeep just fine with out cutting the perch off

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BRIANHO13 said:

Stop by and i can show you an inverted T

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Ya forgot about that ,heheh. Specially since I had it on mine when I first did my swap.

As for the TNT truss it can be modified to go on top of the perch I just don't like welding to the cast diff.

No TnT makes a truss for that model that fits without cutting the perch... I have the proto type on my rig... Here it is...

Now I did keep my lower control arm mounts farther to the out side... But they fit where they need to be with this truss. No changing the truss. :doh: Just because its not on there website doesn't mean they don't make it...