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TrueTrack install

tjmotter

NAXJA Forum User
NAXJA Member
Location
Texas
TrueTrac install

My XJ is destined for a cold climate and I want to upgrade the D35 open carrier to an Eaton TrueTrac to make it easier to handle on ice (very little off-roading so I have no interest in upgrading to a D44 or other).


I am planning to reuse the existing crown and pinion which "should" mean I only have to focus on properly shimming the carrier. Any "gotcha's" from those of you who have done this?


Also, does the stock XJ use interior shims or exterior? I have seen blowups that show that the shims fit between the bearings and the carrier but every video on Youtube shows people installing shims on the exterior of the bearings. Not sure which I should be planning for.


Thanks in advance
Todd
 
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Don't spend the money, get a lunch-box locker instead.
 
I know you said you don't care about upgrading, but you could get a disc brake C8.25 already Trac lok equipped probably for 1/3 the price of a true Trac. Though eatons are good at what they do, just sad to dump the money into a turdyfive.

If your not doing this yourself it's buku dara for install:

If you I insist this guys for good into & funny.

Watch "Detroit Truetrac Differential Install Part 1" on YouTube
https://youtu.be/BI43XKS5KVU


Best of luck
 
If you have the necessary tools and technical skills the install should go OK.

I agree that you could save money and upgrade the axle by finding a good used Chry 8.25 with factory Limited Slip, and refurbish the Limited Slip.



Not for ice. Been there, they suck with both lips

My rear lunchbox locker behaves in Mn winters almost exactly the same as the Limited Slip it replaced. I would recommend a rear auto locker for winter weather. Front auto lockers do suck with both lips for winter driving, I would not recommend one.
 
Thanks for the link!


You know, I keep hearing that I can get a good diff for a % of the cost of an upgrade but I am just not seeing it. The TrueTrac is going to cost $480 and I can't find a decent diff starting point for under $800. Tack on the $480 to upgrade it + another couple of hundred for new axle seals, bearings etc and the minimum cost I see is $1000 (if the diff doesn't need to be upgraded) or $1500 if it does and I still have to do all the work. Best price I have seen on a diff that is ready to go is ~$1700 but the pickings are slim which makes me suspect I will have to re-gear the front diff (or the new rear) to match which adds additional $$.


This XJ is closing in on 30 years old and I have restored it to "like new" inside and out but it will never see another trail. It might haul a boat (18ft max) to the lake and back. It will probably spend some time on gravel roads but it will definitely be asked to plow through snow and to traverse ice.



My first XJ ('93) had a factory limited slip and I loved the way it handled snow and ice. I could save $100 and just install a traction-lock like my first XJ but I heard that the Truetrac was just a bit better. I want to be able to lend this rig to my brother in the depths of winter and not have to school him on how to handle a locker on icy roads.


Like all the other videos this guy shims the outside of the bearings. The blowup pics I have seen show that the D35 places shims on the interior which means I need to buy/make a set of setup bearings. Would love to hear from someone who has done this which is correct on a '90xj.


thx
Todd
 
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Re: TrueTrac install

Tim,


I know that you know your stuff and driving in MINN in the winter can be similar to what I expect to see (but having driven there in the winter I know it isn't as bad as what I will face). What brand of locker did you go with? Also when you say that "it is similar to a LSD" is it similar enough that you would hand the keys to your 17 year old daughter without any instruction and let her tear off at -35 with the roads covered in ice?


thx
Todd
 
I know you said you don't care about upgrading, but you could get a disc brake C8.25 already Trac lok equipped probably for 1/3 the price of a true Trac.

There is no factory "bolt-in" application for this. yes you could make/build one but that means work/expense.
 
Thanks for the link!


You know, I keep hearing that I can get a good diff for a % of the cost of an upgrade but I am just not seeing it. The TrueTrac is going to cost $480 and I can't find a decent diff starting point for under $800. Tack on the $480 to upgrade it + another couple of hundred for new axle seals, bearings etc and the minimum cost I see is $1000 (if the diff doesn't need to be upgraded) or $1500 if it does and I still have to do all the work. Best price I have seen on a diff that is ready to go is ~$1700 but the pickings are slim which makes me suspect I will have to re-gear the front diff (or the new rear) to match which adds additional $$.


This XJ is closing in on 30 years old and I have restored it to "like new" inside and out but it will never see another trail. It might haul a boat (18ft max) to the lake and back. It will probably spend some time on gravel roads but it will definitely be asked to plow through snow and to traverse ice.



My first XJ ('93) had a factory limited slip and I loved the way it handled snow and ice. I could save $100 and just install a traction-lock like my first XJ but I heard that the Truetrac was just a bit better. I want to be able to lend this rig to my brother in the depths of winter and not have to school him on how to handle a locker on icy roads.


Like all the other videos this guy shims the outside of the bearings. The blowup pics I have seen show that the D35 places shims on the interior which means I need to buy/make a set of setup bearings. Would love to hear from someone who has done this which is correct on a '90xj.


thx
Todd

Are you on a stock gear ratio? Is Houston where you are currently?

I see 8.25's on Craigslist here all the time for $200 or so. Heck I think I sold mine for $100 a couple years back.

While I get not wanting to spend the money to swap, I've seen enough D35 horror stories even on pavement) that I'd be worried about spending the money twice if you upgrade it.
 
There is no factory "bolt-in" application for this. yes you could make/build one but that means work/expense.

True,
The disc brakes would be additional work, but he does have options for donor C8.25 with factory L.S.D..

As islander mentioned he's about 200$ for a swap (or less) plus some brake/diff fluid cost vs $480 TT + a master install kit $100+ (if he's bothering). Then labor $$$$, or not?
Just saying if your ready to dump that coin into an axle, any axle, get the most bang for your buck....

Seems cheaper and easier than setting up gears again, to each their own though.
 
Re: TrueTrac install

What brand of locker did you go with? Also when you say that "it is similar to a LSD" is it similar enough that you would hand the keys to your 17 year old daughter without any instruction and let her tear off at -35 with the roads covered in ice?


thx
Todd

I have a PowerTrax No-Slip lunchbox Locker. Very predictable unlocking behavior, no clicking in turns, but it will BANG maybe once or twice a year.

Open/LS/Locker, I would find a huge open area and teach the family how to drive in slippery conditions. Yes, the No-Slip handles winter/behaves the same as the Limited Slip did, if you mash the gas, the tires will break traction and the rear end will swing out. If you mash it hard enough, the Cherokee will spin 360+.

I would not spend a dime on a D35. Around here a Cherokee axle is about $100-200. Unless the bearings are noisy or the seals are leaky, it wouldn't need anything. My 98 has +284,000 miles and both axles are original with no leaks.
 
what tire size?

got a buddy running 31s on a locked 35. some have blown up in spectacular fashion (and created a bit of internet lore in the process) but people do stupid shit every day and hurt themselves going to the bathroom. for the OP's intent, i wouldn't swap the 35.

I'd go auto locker in rear as well.
 
If you want it to handle better on snow covered roads and dont care about wheeling then you dont want to install any traction aid in the axle. Spend the money on a good set of studded snows and winter wheels. 100 times better.
 
Agree with above ^^^^

I prefer an open differential on icy roads. Lateral stability is gone if both rear tires are spinning. On my XJ I travel with both diffs open and in full time four wheel drive. Very stable that way. I can always lock up if needed. I have a 242 transfer case with ARBs front and rear. Just saying how I do it.
 
Lateral stability is only gone if you are hard on the gas pedal and break traction. The No-Slip unlocks just fine in winter driving. I can drift the Cherokee sideways in fresh snow for a least 1/2 a city block, all the while spitting 2 rooster tails of snow fragments onto the sidewalk.

I learned how to drive in a 1974 Ford Galaxie 500 4 door (think Crown Vic size but larger) with a 400 cubic inch motor and bias ply tires during the fall/winter in Minnesota. Talk about a one wheel wonder. I will always recommend a Limited Slip or Locker instead of an open diff for winter snowy/icy driving.
 
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what tire size?

got a buddy running 31s on a locked 35. some have blown up in spectacular fashion (and created a bit of internet lore in the process) but people do stupid shit every day and hurt themselves going to the bathroom. for the OP's intent, i wouldn't swap the 35.

I'd go auto locker in rear as well.


My XJ runs on stock 15" rims with 205/75 tires and I have no intention of changing that.


thx
Todd
 
If you want it to handle better on snow covered roads and dont care about wheeling then you dont want to install any traction aid in the axle. Spend the money on a good set of studded snows and winter wheels. 100 times better.


My first XJ had the factory LSD and it was awesome on Snow/Ice. This one with an open carrier, not so much.



Thx
Todd
 
Lateral stability is only gone if you are hard on the gas pedal and break traction. The No-Slip unlocks just fine in winter driving. I can drift the Cherokee sideways in fresh snow for a least 1/2 a city block, all the while spitting 2 rooster tails of snow fragments onto the sidewalk.

I learned how to drive in a 1974 Ford Galaxie 500 4 door (think Crown Vic size) with a 400 cubic inch motor and bias ply tires during the fall/winter in Minnesota. Talk about a one wheel wonder. I will always recommend a Limited Slip or Locker instead of an open diff for winter snowy/icy driving.


I grew up in a region that regularly hit -40 in the winter. When I was a kid I used to put on flat soled boots, sneak up behind the bus, grab the bumper and let it pull me across the ice a couple of miles to the mall rather than pay the fare. Like you I learned to drive in a boat ('68 Chrysler Newport Custom) with an open diff. Every car/truck for the next 15 years was an open diff so I really didn't know any different. Then I bought my first brand new XJ and experienced a limited slip for the first time. It was AWESOME and I really don't want to go back.



thx
Todd
 
Re: TrueTrac install

Just to get this thread back on track, the original question was: "does the Dana 35 in a '90 XJ use interior shims (as shown in most service manuals) or does it use exterior shims (as shown in most YouTube video's) for the carrier?"

I am only considering the following 3 options:

Spicer Limited Slip - $396.99
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdh-74210x

PowerTrax Grip Pro - $394.97
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwt-gt443527

Eaton TrueTrac - $477.20
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dtl-912a569

Feedback on which of these 3 options would be best would be appreciated.

FWIW, I built a replica of a '65 Shelby Cobra like the one in the link below. I built a 400+HP SBF myself starting from a bare block, did all the suspension work, modified a Ford 8.8" LSD to fit, finished the interior, fuel system, brakes (including adding power brakes and ABS), electrical, steering and did all of the bodywork. I'm pretty sure I have the skills (and most of the tools) to replace a carrier.

https://www.factoryfive.com/roadster/mk4/


thx
Todd
 
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