http://www.backcountrycrawlers.com/smf/index.php?topic=2414.15
please follow the link. im havin problems with my XJ
J.
please follow the link. im havin problems with my XJ
J.
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Having problems....
- Thread starter 00DCJeep
- Start date
Matthew Currie
NAXJA Member #760
- Location
- Vermont, land of big clay
The link here links to another link in another forum. Too much bother. If you haven't gotten good answers from two forums, perhaps you'd do better to start over, and state your problem clearly here.
I don't mean to be snarky, but we have other things to occupy our time, and you're likely to get better help if you take the time to explain your problem, and while you're at it, if you put a more informative title on your thread. Some people don't bother even to open "I have a problem" threads that don't name the problem. I know of some forums in which the admins simply delete them.
ok, i hear ya.
Ok i bought a 1985 XJ for $400. Its got the 2.5L 4 banger in it. im having problems keeping it running. I messed with the electric choke and i though i had it fixed. but then it ran for about 20 minutes and died. wouldnt start. so i messed with the e choke again and got it fired up
but would only run for 1 mintue and die. it starts right up after it dies. it idels fine. i can rev it up and it goes back to normal idel. On other jeep fourms people have told me carb needs rebuilt or the MAP sensor needs replaced. I just paid the tags and plates on it so i can wheel it. Ive got a 81 J10 also, its gettin a tranny put it. i do all my own work.
J.
Ok i bought a 1985 XJ for $400. Its got the 2.5L 4 banger in it. im having problems keeping it running. I messed with the electric choke and i though i had it fixed. but then it ran for about 20 minutes and died. wouldnt start. so i messed with the e choke again and got it fired up
but would only run for 1 mintue and die. it starts right up after it dies. it idels fine. i can rev it up and it goes back to normal idel. On other jeep fourms people have told me carb needs rebuilt or the MAP sensor needs replaced. I just paid the tags and plates on it so i can wheel it. Ive got a 81 J10 also, its gettin a tranny put it. i do all my own work. J.
sounds like you need to take the carb apart and clean/rebuild it. inadequate fuel supply. the bowl runs dry then it starves. could also be a weak fuel pump or clogged fuel filter. process of elimination. rebuild kits are cheap. it might just need a cleaning. ive found that old carbs dont like ethanol especially if its sat for any length of time. do some exploratory surgery inside the carb. those little carbs are pretty simple. rockauto.com has most of the parts you need except a rebuild. the choke would not keep it from running.
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
Wait a minute... a carbed engine with a MAP sensor? :huh:
Maybe I'm just an idiot, I don't know much (if anything) about the 84-86 years, and don't know all that much about the 4cyls except for the one I'm working on right now.
Maybe I'm just an idiot, I don't know much (if anything) about the 84-86 years, and don't know all that much about the 4cyls except for the one I'm working on right now.
winterbeater
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Royal Oak, Michigan
Can't hurt to pull the carb apart, clean it, and reset the float level. Check also that the float still floats. (Bowl of gas.)
n1ywb
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- The Green Mountains
My 85 olds v8 quadrajunk had vacuum advance.
Correct me if I'm wrong but carbs do nothing to compensate for air density. So on a cold day it lets in more O2 than on a hot day. I can see them cobbing a MAP sensor onto a carb'ed engine to try and comply with smog laws before giving up and going to FI. They sure cobbed a lot of other useless failure prone crap onto carb engines...
Could also be some sort of vacuum enrichment at WOT? I dunno. Just guessing.
Correct me if I'm wrong but carbs do nothing to compensate for air density. So on a cold day it lets in more O2 than on a hot day. I can see them cobbing a MAP sensor onto a carb'ed engine to try and comply with smog laws before giving up and going to FI. They sure cobbed a lot of other useless failure prone crap onto carb engines...
Could also be some sort of vacuum enrichment at WOT? I dunno. Just guessing.
Thats what i was thinking. it hasnt sat but more then 2 months. i drove it to work. ( pizza delivery guy on the weekends) and it did fine.
Also to start with. when i would drive it and come to a stop, it would die but start right up again. some one told me about the brake booster? Also i just put on a new fule filter from a older wrangler cause u cant fine a fuel filter for my jeep. one more thing.
When i have my gas pedal to the floor, the butterfly on the carb opens up mabe 1/4 of the way. WTF!!!!!!!
heyhar
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- PA (near Poconos)
So did most cars, starting, I think, in the '50s. The 2.8 boat anchor has the GM electronically controlled carb, which was often troublesome, and always expensive to play with. They started using the carb around 1980, a co-worker had an '80 Camaro with this carb (which was stolen, and a fortune to replace-they were a hot commodity back in the day). Hell, my '78 Firebird had a diagnostic port, although I don't know what it could have been connected to. So, you may well have a MAP sensor on the vehicle, as the system would need input from some sort of sensor to adjust things by.
Matthew Currie
NAXJA Member #760
- Location
- Vermont, land of big clay
The funny thing is that I just got an email from a cousin in Maine who is having almost the exact same problem with his lawn mower!
The first place I'd look for a problem like this is in the fuel supply to the carburetor. As others have suggested, this sounds most like a carburetor doing its job, at least more or less, but then starving when the bowl goes low.
I'm not sure just what this setup has for a fuel pump and filter, but that's where I'd start. Once upon a time it was pretty easy to check fuel level in the carb (I remember one old family Ford had a glass float bowl), but I don't know what's on yours. If there's a drain in the float bowl, try running it till it stalls, then immediately stop and open the drain. If only a little dribble of gas comes out, then you know it starved to death. If what looks like a full bowl comes out, then it's probably not that.
A lot of carburetors have a sintered-bronze filter in the carburetor inlet. Make sure that's clean. Also make sure the float valve isn't sticking. That could cause this problem to appear intermittently, which in turn makes it really hard to track down.
If you have doubts about fuel supply, consider the possibility of setting up a temporary test rig with gravity feed. If the fuel lines aren't too difficult, you can try just feeding the carburetor with a small funnel on a fuel line. If it keeps running when you keep adding fuel, then you know the problem was in the fuel supply. If it still dies with a steady supply of fuel going in, then you must look elsewhere, perhaps to clogged jets. A clogged main jet might cause this problem, allowing it to start and run until the choke comes off. If it stops accepting fuel and also dies, suspect the float valve.
Another possibility if you've been having choke problems in the past is that the choke is not coming off at all, so that once it's warmed up it will die of choking. But if that's the case it should be easy to see with the air cleaner off, and if it dies, you should be able to jam the choke open for a warm restart, and no further problem. I suspect that's not the problem, but anything is possible.
Finally, don't neglect vacuum problems. Make sure you don't have any vacuum hoses unconnected, and that there are no leaks in the intake system. If you have a vacuum gauge that would help.
But finally, the bottom line here is, I'm sorry to see, that the carburetor on that beast is pretty complicated. A lot of little vacuum lines and gadgets hung on there. It's not as bad as the one I had on my 85 Honda, which had something like 49 separate vacuum hoses and two car-battery sized boxes of mysterious compenents connected to them, but it's quite possible your best option will turn out to be a proper and complete carb rebuild. I'd check that fuel supply first, though.
It took me a while to write this and in the meantime, I see some more info. Stalls when you brake? Yes indeed, could be leaking brake booster, and that means serious vacuum leak, enough to mess up any engine. For testing (obviously not for driving very far), you might want to block off the vacuum line to the booster altogether and see if that makes a difference.
Also if the carb butterfly is not opening all the way, make sure that you don't just have a bad linkage problem or a jam inside that's stopping the butterfly from opening all the way. I don't see anything in the admittedly poor Haynes diagrams that suggests it shouldn't open normally.
The first place I'd look for a problem like this is in the fuel supply to the carburetor. As others have suggested, this sounds most like a carburetor doing its job, at least more or less, but then starving when the bowl goes low.
I'm not sure just what this setup has for a fuel pump and filter, but that's where I'd start. Once upon a time it was pretty easy to check fuel level in the carb (I remember one old family Ford had a glass float bowl), but I don't know what's on yours. If there's a drain in the float bowl, try running it till it stalls, then immediately stop and open the drain. If only a little dribble of gas comes out, then you know it starved to death. If what looks like a full bowl comes out, then it's probably not that.
A lot of carburetors have a sintered-bronze filter in the carburetor inlet. Make sure that's clean. Also make sure the float valve isn't sticking. That could cause this problem to appear intermittently, which in turn makes it really hard to track down.
If you have doubts about fuel supply, consider the possibility of setting up a temporary test rig with gravity feed. If the fuel lines aren't too difficult, you can try just feeding the carburetor with a small funnel on a fuel line. If it keeps running when you keep adding fuel, then you know the problem was in the fuel supply. If it still dies with a steady supply of fuel going in, then you must look elsewhere, perhaps to clogged jets. A clogged main jet might cause this problem, allowing it to start and run until the choke comes off. If it stops accepting fuel and also dies, suspect the float valve.
Another possibility if you've been having choke problems in the past is that the choke is not coming off at all, so that once it's warmed up it will die of choking. But if that's the case it should be easy to see with the air cleaner off, and if it dies, you should be able to jam the choke open for a warm restart, and no further problem. I suspect that's not the problem, but anything is possible.
Finally, don't neglect vacuum problems. Make sure you don't have any vacuum hoses unconnected, and that there are no leaks in the intake system. If you have a vacuum gauge that would help.
But finally, the bottom line here is, I'm sorry to see, that the carburetor on that beast is pretty complicated. A lot of little vacuum lines and gadgets hung on there. It's not as bad as the one I had on my 85 Honda, which had something like 49 separate vacuum hoses and two car-battery sized boxes of mysterious compenents connected to them, but it's quite possible your best option will turn out to be a proper and complete carb rebuild. I'd check that fuel supply first, though.
It took me a while to write this and in the meantime, I see some more info. Stalls when you brake? Yes indeed, could be leaking brake booster, and that means serious vacuum leak, enough to mess up any engine. For testing (obviously not for driving very far), you might want to block off the vacuum line to the booster altogether and see if that makes a difference.
Also if the carb butterfly is not opening all the way, make sure that you don't just have a bad linkage problem or a jam inside that's stopping the butterfly from opening all the way. I don't see anything in the admittedly poor Haynes diagrams that suggests it shouldn't open normally.
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mechanical fuel pump with inline cartridge type filter. not sure it has the same little filter on the inlet like the old quadra jet. im leaning towards weak fuel pump, bad filter, bad/dirty internally. might be vacuum related also. time to explore :repair:
Matthew Currie
NAXJA Member #760
- Location
- Vermont, land of big clay
We'd also be kind of pleased if
gives you better and quicker info than those Brand X forums! We'd also be kind of pleased if
O HELL YA!!!! ive got more info from you guys just today then i have from the past 3 days on the other sites
J.
Matthew Currie
NAXJA Member #760
- Location
- Vermont, land of big clay
Well, I hope you solve your problem and then stick around, because usually what happens here is that by the time you get it straightened out you'll end up knowing an awful lot about not only what's actually wrong but what isn't. Since there aren't a lot of those old 2.5's out there, you may end up being the carb guru!O HELL YA!!!! ive got more info from you guys just today then i have from the past 3 days on the other sites
J.
winterbeater
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Royal Oak, Michigan
Matthew Currie's fuel supply suggestion reminded me of a problem I had on an old Ford. When I rigged up a can with a hose directly to the carb gas inlet, it ran good. Fuel line was rusting out near the tank.
well, just a update. i got it running good. ive hit a few trails close to home, so in case something happened i could walk home. lol. All i did was take the top of the carb apart and put it back together. i cut all the fenders off so i can fit bigger tires under it. I'll try and get pics up. plan on takin it off road today and sunday.
J.
J.
maxwedge
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- upstate ny
since you said you played with the choke, take and open your choke blade inside the neck of the carb and put a clothes pin on the top of it to make sure it isnt closing shut on you. If it is it will start to spit and sputter than die on you. good luck
