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Intermittent rough idle at start

TDoggs

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Indianapolis
Hello!


The Cherokee is running well, no wobble and got the AC up to full freeze!


Here's something that has happened occasionally since I bought it.



When it's started when hot, it idles rough as heck and sometimes dies.



When it's re-started, it runs smooth as silk.


Any ideas what may be going south? I'd hate to have it quit on the road when my daughter is driving it.
 
just saw your post, i posted right after about similar issue.

have you taken a look at the condition of your throttle body?
 
When it's started when hot, it idles rough as heck and sometimes dies.

Sounds like heat soak and/or a faulty check valve. Both are somewhat common 97-01, and more common 00-01.
 
Sounds like heat soak and/or a faulty check valve. Both are somewhat common 97-01, and more common 00-01.

I had problems with stalling when hot on my 96. I also thought it was heat soak but it turned out to be a faulty CPS (although mine would not restart after stalling until it cooled down). Worth a check?
 
read up on heat soak. The symptoms are a perfect match.
 
just saw your post, i posted right after about similar issue.

have you taken a look at the condition of your throttle body?


Nope. I'll check it out this weekend.


Sounds like heat soak and/or a faulty check valve. Both are somewhat common 97-01, and more common 00-01.


Thanks, I'll be looking at the valve this weekend. How do I diagnose a bad one?



read up on heat soak. The symptoms are a perfect match.


Thanks!


Thanks for all of the replies fellas.....
 
A faulty CPS typically results in random stalling and/or a total no-start.

Installing an ELK-960 e-fan timer module seems to be the best heat soak solution. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1045030


A failed check valve allows the fuel to drain back to the tank. This results in one or more of the following symptoms:

SYMPTOMS

• Longer than normal cranking times
• Never starts on first try, almost always starts on the second try
• Rough idle for a few moments of idling
• Rough running for first ½ block of driving
• Little or no fuel pressure at the fuel rail test valve similar to this -

1- Key in on position; fuel pump primes for 2 seconds then stops. 0 PSI
2- Cranking over the engine. 2-3 PSI
3- Engine starts and idles for 20 seconds. < 5 PSI
4- Engine idles and fuel pressure creeps up to 45-50 PSI.


POSSIBLE CAUSES

• Failed check valve on the fuel pump in the gas tank.
• Leaky fuel injector(s) may be the true cause of your problem, but more likely they are simply contributing to the check valve issue.

Testing of the fuel injectors should show if any are faulty and are allowing fuel to drain into the cylinder. Either problem can allow heat soak to vaporize the remaining fuel in the fuel rail, and you may be dealing with a bit of vapor lock as well, especially in warmer weather.

1. Connect the gauge at the fuel rail and start the engine. The gage should read 49 psi plus or minus 5 psi.
2. Turn the engine off and immediately clamp the fuel line just ahead of the fuel tank. Watch the pressure gage and see how long it takes to loose pressure.

If the pressure remains at 49 psi for an extended period of time then the problem is in the tank - probably the check valve. If the pressure falls below 49 psi fairly rapidly then the problem is probably one or more leaky injectors.

There are a few solutions to the problem –

1. Turn the key to ON for 5 seconds and let the fuel pump prime. Turn the key to OFF, turn the key back to ON for 5 seconds, start the engine.
2. Crank the engine for 3-5 seconds, pause, and crank the engine again. It will almost always start on the second try.
3. Replace the fuel pump assembly in the gas tank. The check valve is not a separate part and cannot be serviced. This is both expensive and time consuming because you have to remove any hitches and skid plates and then remove the gas tank from the vehicle.

You can use solutions 1 or 2 for as long as you want to, they do not harm anything and the fuel pump will continue to function for many more years.

If you do replace the fuel pump assembly, purchase a high quality OEM style pump assembly such as Bosch or Carter. Some cheap aftermarket fuel pump assemblies, like Airtex, and Precision don’t hold up and fail completely within 12-18 months.
 
Start here, but be warned - heat soak will pretty much always plague you.

I don't know what you mean by this??? I live in Az where it doesn't get much hotter and I own 2 2000's that have never had this problem!

OP , do you have FED or CALI emissions?
 
I don't know what you mean by this??? I live in Az where it doesn't get much hotter and I own 2 2000's that have never had this problem!

OP , do you have FED or CALI emissions?

I mean, I've tried all the sensors, new injectors, heat wraps, just about everything short of replacing fuel pump and lines and it'll still behave like a heat-soaked beast whenever it pleases. And where I live is decidedly not all that hot - I just accept it as it is.
 
OP , do you have FED or CALI emissions?


No sir.



When it happened, my daughter was driving it and I was not there.


I told her to shut it off and re-start it and it was fine. I'm guessing it was heat soak as well.
 
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