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Undercoating....

XbajajeepX

NAXJA Forum User
Location
So. Lake Tahoe
I plan to coat the entire undercarriage/wheel wells of the outside of the jeep.. I have a few questions for those of you who have done this...

How did you prep?

What did you use to prep?

and, what lining did you use?

I am debating on using Durabak or Herculiner. The Durabak is more but, you get what you pay for, right?

Thanks!

Mike
 
If it's clean wait for the 3M Rubberized Spray-on undercoat to go on sale somewhere. It is great and lasts a long time. Way easier than brush-on/roll-ons.

Crap does not come off skin or garage/driveways easily.
 
I've got a six pack of POR-15 sitting around I plan to use. Right now I'm just in the process of stripping all the factory shat off, because nothing will stick if you leave that on. I'm going to use their Metal-Ready for prepping. They claim it etches the surface and makes it ready for painting. I would say go for POR if you can afford it. Just my $.02
 
The POR-15 would be a good idea actually....I am moving back to Oregon and I want to rust proof the XJ.

How would you go about applying the Metal-Ready? Just pressure wash the bottom with some nice hot steamy water, let it drive, then apply?

Thanks

Mike
 
Anyone else???
 
If I had any rust I would go for the POR. If not then Hurculiner would be my choice. Clean everything you are going to coat first. Remember that the liner is only as good as what you are putting it on, so if your surface is not prepped well the top layer no matter what you choose wil not stay on.
 
As far as the metal ready goes, they say to apply their marine clean first. I doubt that's necessary but you do want to get it down to clean, bare metal first. I think por looks like tough friggin stuff although, like I said, I've yet to see it in action yet. I plan to do my bumpers and trailer hitch tomorrow or thursday. I'll let you know what I think as far as looks, prep, etc.
 
because I am moving back to oregon...
 
When I did mine I was mainly trying to get rid of some rust I had. I sandblasted the rust spots and used Chassis Saver (http://www.magnetpaints.com/underbody.asp). I applied a couple of coats of the 3M undercoat on top of that.
 
well theres no rust. It just looks really dirty, I was thinking about getting it up on a lift(my bro in law has one), steam washing it then using some of that Metal-ready...
 
Kind of off topic but RockTracXJ, how do you like Colorado Springs??
 
XbajajeepX said:
Kind of off topic but RockTracXJ, how do you like Colorado Springs??

Love it. I love walking outside first thing in the morning to pick up the paper and being able to look up and admire Pikes Peak. I can be driving down a moutain trail within an hour. I can't imagine living anywhere else.

The thing about painting is it's really all about the prep. Spend the time and effort to make sure paint will properly adhere to your surface and you've pretty much won the battle.
 
RenixPower said:
I think por looks like tough friggin stuff although, like I said, I've yet to see it in action yet. I plan to do my bumpers and trailer hitch tomorrow or thursday. I'll let you know what I think as far as looks, prep, etc.

It is, I have used it many times on stuff and I re-painted my Con-Ferr roof rack with it and painted my RigidCo bumpers with it and then topcoated with 3 coats of Rustoleum flat black. It has held up awesome, especially through the salt/winter of michigan.

Chassis saver is a solid product too. My dad just got done using it on his 64' vette frame for a resto project and it is very similar to POR. Actually, I think I like it a tad better in regards to not as bad fumes and you don't have to use other Chassis Saver products with it like POR requires for best adherence. Also, they have a product that has 20% aluminum flake in it so it will fill in pitholes of older metal.

Regarding the undercoating, I spoke with a rep at Durabak and he said topcoating POR-15 with Durabak makes and incredible bond since the chemical make up pf the two products compliment each other. You might want to look into that, of course you are racking up the money then but it might make the jeep damn near rust proof for life.
 
When I Did my floorpans I steam cleaned everything then bead blasted any rust then Por 15 the whole underneath then Used undercoat out of a 25 gal drum that needs to be heated then applyed with a spray gun. Alot of dealerships used to do it but due to enviormental regulatons it's banned most places but you can still get the drums for free usually because anyone who has them needs to pay to dipose of them so they give it away. I have a few brand new drums in the shop soo. That thing will never rust I could park it in the ocean
 
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