• NAXJA is having its 18th annual March Membership Drive!!!
    Everyone who joins or renews during March will be entered into a drawing!
    More Information - Join/Renew
  • Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Suggestions for undercoating?

Honestly. Strip it down and buy that $100 roll on bedliner. You won't regret it. I gaurentee it !!! Roll it on thiccc with 3 C's is the best tip


The Harbor Freight bedliner can be had for as cheap as $39/gallon on sale. It's the same thing as the Duplicolor bed liner. No grit, but does leave a texture if you roll it on. Do wear gloves because it doesn't come off skin easily, and don't get it on your hootus (google herculiner and hootus...).
 
Fluid Film every year. It isn't permanent, but it doesn't require a lot of tedious prep work. I have a 98 with zero rust b/c of the product.

I am with Brassmonkey on this. I powerwash underneath this time of year, let her dry, and go to town with Fluid Film. If you have a compressor better off with the gun kit they sell and buying it in gallons. Thinking using spray cans will get a little pricey.

Fluid Film has certain drawbacks but well worth using still. Jeep will smell for about a week. And if you have to go under there to work on something it is messy. Of course I go to town and use about a 1/2 gallon at a whack. I think Fluid Film is not a less is more thing.

I will run the Jeep through the $5 automatic wash bay during the winter but not pay the extra $1 for the underside. Cause eventually it will wash off.

Also every little piece of crap on the road will stick to it. Come April I powerwash it all off. The only reason I don't run it year round is cause I am still working on the Jeep and as I said Fluid Film just makes it so much more messier.
 
As was stated Fluid Film or old motor oil is all youll use especially if you live in the northeast. The problem with undercoating/bedliner/paint is that eventually they all just trap moisture against the metal. Trust me if you really want it to last youd be wise not to put bedliner or undercoating on it. Ive seen more trucks than I can count where someone bedlined floors or rockers and within a year its rotted from the inside out.
 
I used the 3M for appearance.

Your Jeep will rust from the inside out.

I'm not concerned about the undercoating 'trapping' moisture..........that's BS if prepped correctly.

 
Honestly. Strip it down and buy that $100 roll on bedliner. You won't regret it. I gaurentee it !!! Roll it on thiccc with 3 C's is the best tip

I'd advise against this option based one personal experience. I've done the roll on cheap stuff and it disintegrates, chips and fades over time. Maybe the kits available now are higher quality than what I used back in the day?

I like the idea of Fluid Film, will have to look into it.
 
There are down sides to using this stuff.
This stuff is usually stocked in the plumbing dept at hardware stores. Roof sealing etc. And comes in different viscosity.
It has been banned in a lot of countries, as they used it once throughout the undercarriage and engine bay in a lot of cars. And the petroleum based stuff could ignite under certain circumstances.
But a wheel arch is fine.
Anyhow.....
There is synthetic variants available.
Down side is with some of these skin applications, mostly the rubbery synthetic types, is that can get and hold water inbetween the metal and layer. And you can't see it! Then the contamination of crap gets in there and causes rust big time , unseen to the eye!
The petroleum stuff doesn't stuff from this.
You can thin the last coat if brushing on and make it look a bit flatter.
Just make sure the guard is spottles clean before using it.
It can be removed with thinners if you have to weld there in the future. Be careful but and have sum water handy.
 
So after some research, I discovered a lot of people in the auto-restoration world use 3M Body Schutz, 08864.

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Body-Schutz-Rubberized-Coating-Black/

001.jpg
 
None of that crap will stop rust unless you can thoroughly coat and seal every nook and cranny along with properly prepping everything. As stated above your Jeep will rot from the inside out if driven in salt. Fluid film or similar is the best option if you live in the rust belt. I can do all three of our vehicles in an afternoon for under a hundred bucks.
 
Talking of clean underbody......
I bought a pressure pack can of this unusual degreaser a while ago.
I used it on grease and oil..... utter rubbish!
BUT.... One day I was washing the clay and mud off the girl with a HP washer.
And decided to spray it on first.
Now still. Stuff comes out of the can like a white stream, then foams up a lot.
Smells a tiny bit like oven cleaner.
BUT! Talk about rip clay and dirt off!!!!
Strips it!
The brand will probably vary in the US etc.
Here it is branded as "5 star", 3 in 1 degreaser.
Cheap to buy.
It comes out real fast, so go easy at first.
I've used it in my engine bay. Use a paint brush to rub it with, and simply light rince off before it dries.
Gets all that hard clay forms years of build up off .
Docent seem to effect paint work if you rince shortly after.
 
I'm a bit lost to the final answer/solution.
Here in OZ, we don't get the salt issue, re-guarding snow etc.
Best thing to do is stop rust.
A few ways to go about it..
One under valued way is to buy a zinc anode meant for marine applications!!
Usually fitted to outboard motors!
Electrolysis!!
Google it!
You will be surprised at w h at at an anode can do!
Talp n to your chassis!
Cheap as!
Have you ever seen an old motor covered in with oil leaks... rusty ?
NO!
A penetrating oil here in OZ, "inox", like a light sewing machine oil.
I'm use once a year, in an engine cleaning gun, I spay the underbody with it.
Then feather it out with an air pistol.
Don't forget get the chassis rails! Drench them!
Squirt some in from both ends, and then use compressed air to feather it out thoroughly .
A good penetrating oil will loosen up grime and crap.
Far better option in my experience.
Tar, synthetic coatings won't do that.
But honestly for $10!!!
Google out board zinc anodes re- electrolysis..
And how they work!!!!
 
Google out board zinc anodes re- electrolysis..
And how they work!!!!




Or don't work for automotive applications. They work well on submerged applications like marine and buried pipes. Skip the zinc anode or fancy electrical gizmos that claim to provide cathodic protection. NOthing but snake oil.
 
Ill throw out a recomendation for PFC from berkebile oil company. Its a lanolin wool wax that can be sprayed or brushed on. Ive been using it the passed three winters with good results.
 
Or don't work for automotive applications. They work well on submerged applications like marine and buried pipes. Skip the zinc anode or fancy electrical gizmos that claim to provide cathodic protection. NOthing but snake oil.

I could be wrong......
But most electrolysis damage occurs through the cooling system.
Copper/brass/aluminium etc , hence why there is so many chemicals added to coolant.

Trivia...
Ever seen old steel pylons sticking up out the ocean, rusted off just at the tidal mark height.
The steel actually last longer submerged in the salt water, than just above it where air can get at it.
 
Back
Top