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Blowing smoke from exhaust

It was a free Jeep, so I can't take any credit for the maintenance thus far. I'm afraid to start knocking the gunge loose for fear of clogging the pickup and or oil passages....

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Omg, I didn't even know that was possible. It looks like caramelized sugar on everything.



Has a compression test ever been done? Just curious
Never done compression test. I was going to do it before getting this far, but I just want to drive it.

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It was a free Jeep, so I can't take any credit for the maintenance thus far. I'm afraid to start knocking the gunge loose for fear of clogging the pickup and or oil passages....

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Probably too late for that. You need to drop the pan either way. I've had engines bad enough that I needed screwdriver, putty knife and the shop vac to suck up the rock hard oxidized oil. Poor quality oil, never changing it and running hot are the usual culprits. At least it doesn't look like there's coolant in the oil.
 
Is there a suggested method to clean it out without clogging the oil passages?

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There are no oil passages to worry about, the only holes are drain-back openings that go straight to the pan.
 
RCP Phx,

Those oil drainback holes can get clogged. I was working on a XJ block that was professionally cleaned, washed with soap and water, and assembled. Then just before placing the head in place, I looked down and saw a clogged oil drainback hole. I had to disassemble the block again, open-up the clogged oil drainback hole, wash again with soap and water, and reassemble.

If the oil pan is pulled, you may be able to open any clogged oil drainback holes by working underneath the engine and working upwards. It's very important to have all those oil drainback holes open.

Best regards,

CJR
 
An added thought. The connecting rods have "oil squirter holes" which throw oil on the cylinder walls for lubrication. These "oil squirter holes" may also be clogged and cause serious problems. So after thoroughly cleaning the head, opening any clogged oil drainback holes; add some Marvel Mystery cleaner to the new engine oil before you fired the engine. Run the engine for a day or so and then drain the oil and add new oil w/ Marvel Mystery cleaner and run for about a couple hundred miles. Pull the valve cover and see how clean the valves, rockers, etc. are getting. If still dirty, drain the oil, replace oil filter and repeat until the engine gets clean.

Best regards,

CJR
 
The only holes are for the pushrods and are short leading to the underside cavity in the head. Clean those with a bottle brush if you want, after that it's just a couple inches to the interior block area.

OP. yes your going to need a couple of "good" filters.
Put the cheapest oil you can buy in for a couple days of easy but full temp running.
Then change the oil/filter again with good oil.
P1080514_zpslz6n2eoi.jpg
 
OP, the sad part is your going to spend about a week and a few dollars. The outcome you may not like in the end.

On a funny sidenote..... I had a customer come in for a installed/rebuilt motor. She drove the car in and I pulled it into the bay. First thing I did was pull the drain plug, nothing came out, Hmmm! Doing the core check the motor looked just like this head only though-out the entire block.
But it ran!
 
The only holes are for the pushrods and are short leading to the underside cavity in the head. Clean those with a bottle brush if you want, after that it's just a couple inches to the interior block area.



OP. yes your going to need a couple of "good" filters.

Put the cheapest oil you can buy in for a couple days of easy but full temp running.

Then change the oil/filter again with good oil.

P1080514_zpslz6n2eoi.jpg
Are you able to draw an arrow on your picture of the drain holes? My head is too clogged to see any sort of holes...

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No, but it's 12 push rod holes on the bottom area(you can see the background on some)
 
Yeap, I would start with a plastic spoon and knife to get to even where you can see things. Then a ton of scrubbing/brushing(with solvents), you need to remove the rockers and also get a good brushing on the springs. By that time your going to have a "hell of a mess" in the pan.
 
The oil flows back down through the push rod holes, then down into the pan from there. I'd be real tempted to go ahead and pull that head and put it in the parts washer. In the end, that would probably be faster, less messy, and easier on the back than leaning over the engine.
 
Keep all the parts totally in order whilst removing them. Geeze you do have some gunk in there mate!.
Possibly even water contamination?
Plug any oil journals. Drain the oil. And put about 3ltrs of deisel back in the sump to keep gunge wet and suspended.
When using any brake/parts cleaner in an aerosol can. Do it over a bucket an recycle it.
Prime time to have an a air compressor. Air pistol and engine degreaser gun. Buy, beg if borrow!
Tarp up big time, and a lot can be air blown off.
I would take the oil out of the sump firstly and get it inspected by a pro.
Checking for a blown head gasket etc.
Cheaper and best to do this firstly, than spend $ and hours cleaning it.
If it is a blown head gasket, the head has to come off regardless.
After removing it, you can hit it with a high pressure washer and then a coat of oil and get it inspected for cracks or warping.
If no cracks get it acid bathed and redecked/machined flat.

Downside is your bottom half of your motor being covered in the same gunk!!!
Pros and cons, opinions and facts about engine oil flushing.
But after seeing the top end of your motor, I would honestly fill the sump with 4ltr deisel
And run it at idol till normal running temp is gained. Pull the sump plug out and let it drain over night.
Repeat again.
3rd time idol till running temp, idol, then up to 2000rpm, relax, 2500rpm, idol, 3000rpm, etc up to 4000rpm.
Drain over r night whilst hot.
Replace oil filter and fill sump with light running in engine oil.
50 miles later, then put some light cheap oil in and do the same again.
Then run synthetic oil with new filter.
 
I'm starting to think the oil coming out of the ccv is because it can't drain back to the sump. It gets pumped into the valve cover but can't get out.

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A little clarification. The oil does indeed flow down the push-rod holes in the head and lubes the cam lobes/lifter surfaces. IIRC the oil drainback holes, in the the engine block. are under the cam and allows the oil to drain back into the pan. When the head is off, with the cam is in place. you can't see the oil drainback holes. IIRC, with the the cam in place, I believe viewing upwards,from the pan, should allow opening any clogged oil drainback holes in the block and allow the oil to return to the pan.

Best regards,

CJR
 
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