Another Fuel Line Leak Question

In all my searching, I haven’t seen a repair for this type of fuel line fitting. I have seen other looking fuel line adaptations but nothing that looks like mine.

I assumed I needed to replace the o-rings but how do you get the o-rings out and back into this connector? Can I just buy a new connector?

Also, can I just replace the disconnect with a sprig clamp? I assume it’s a quick connect for safety reasons but it can’t be any safer to not know if fuel is leaking on your manifold.

Help, plz?






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Has anyone used these as replacements?

Dorman 800-082 Fuel Line Fitting https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E323JO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_c3ovCbEHFZJ9C


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You need these: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6310221&cc=1179996&jsn=418

After I disconnected my fuel line, I learned these were designed to be disposable, and replaced every time the fuel line is disconnected.

Hypoid said:

You need these: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6310221&cc=1179996&jsn=418



After I disconnected my fuel line, I learned these were designed to be disposable, and replaced every time the fuel line is disconnected.

Click to expand...

This doesn’t look like my part. I don’t see anything on mine that looks like half of this. The clip looks like the one on the hard line, but I don’t see how this would work. My o-rings are on the inside of my black connector.


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This is the part you need.

First, remove the old o-rings from the socket, and the plastic clip from the nipple. Clean and lubricate the socket and nipple. Slide the plastic assembly into the socket, remove the center pin, slide the plastic clip with o-rings over the nipple until it snaps in place.

LKN_xj said:

..................how do you get the o-rings out and back into this connector? ..............

Click to expand...

Onf these should get them out easy:


https://photos.google.com/share/AF1...?key=LU1CcnNKODBYOGxYNE5hYm9ZYjE2QmVXUm1KZzRB


You insert the new O-rings & the spacer into the male part.

arto_wa said:

Onf these should get them out easy:


https://photos.google.com/share/AF1...?key=LU1CcnNKODBYOGxYNE5hYm9ZYjE2QmVXUm1KZzRB


You insert the new O-rings & the spacer into the male part.

Click to expand...

Just to clarify - you mean female part? I.e I dig out the o-rings and stick new ones in there?

Makes me go back to my other question - why not buy a pack of 2 on amazon above for $9.99 instead of paying $20 shipped for a rebuild kit from Rockauto?

Seems like a brand new female piece would be beneficial. No one has used that Dorman part?


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LKN_xj said:

Makes me go back to my other question - why not buy a pack of 2 on amazon above for $9.99 instead of paying $20 shipped for a rebuild kit from Rockauto?

Seems like a brand new female piece would be beneficial. No one has used that Dorman part?

Click to expand...

It looks like Rockauto is down, so I found the O.E. part number and searched it:

https://www.amazon.com/d/Automotive-Fuel-Lines/Crown-Automotive-83502745-Fuel-Repair/B00B8X56RA

I cost $10.13 with free shipping.

In the "compare with similar," they list fittings like the one you posted, in 5/16" diameter: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-800-0...e=UTF8&qid=1549150920&sr=1-1&keywords=800-080

I don't know what it takes to fit that nylon line to the hose barb. Maybe you can find a tutorial to share with the rest of the class.

Hypoid said:

It looks like Rockauto is down, so I found the O.E. part number and searched it:



https://www.amazon.com/d/Automotive-Fuel-Lines/Crown-Automotive-83502745-Fuel-Repair/B00B8X56RA



I cost $10.13 with free shipping.



In the "compare with similar," they list fittings like the one you posted, in 5/16" diameter: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-800-0...e=UTF8&qid=1549150920&sr=1-1&keywords=800-080



I don't know what it takes to fit that nylon line to the hose barb. Maybe you can find a tutorial to share with the rest of the class.

Click to expand...

Cool, thanks! On this solution, is the part I circled a “tool” that is only used to insert the o-rings, then discarded? I think I could see how this would work but the part I circled is what is throwing me off.




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LKN_xj said:

On this solution, is the part I circled a “tool” that is only used to insert the o-rings, then discarded?

Click to expand...

That is correct.

Hypoid said:

That is correct.

Click to expand...

Ohhh, well that makes total sense now. Sweet! I’ll post up pictures of how this is done so this post is worth something to someone in the future


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Hopefully just stating the obvious, but make sure you remove the old piece from the fuel rail (part to left of circle tool) in pic above before to attach the fuel line.

This is how I chose to solve the issue. Seeing as how my plastic-ish (maybe originally Nylon) were pretty hard and not malleable, I decided to replace the fuel line starting at the hard line.

Apparently the hard lines are both 5/16 even though the inlet to the fuel rail are both 5/16 and 3/8. The one I was replacing was a 3/8. For now I’m using 3/8 50psi fuel line crimped down to fit the hard line with a worm clamp.



They sell 3/8 to 5/16 brass reducers so I’ll likely do that to get it to fit better, but it doesn’t leak.

Dorman 800-082 are the 3/8 quick disconnects. You can get them for amazon for $10 in a pack of two.




I ran the fuel line up to the rail and slid in a new fitting and everything’s working fine.



Maybe this fuel line isn’t as good with ethanol fuel, but it has worked on motorcycles for years and years without leak, so I’ll go with it.


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