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Starts fine -turn off- won't restart...

D

dbucfan

NAXJA Forum User
Location
North Carolina
...unless i push the throttle...local garage in charlotte/matthews says i have a bad torque converter!!??? Does that sound right??? When i first start it, it is fine...i drove it down the street as normal. I park it for two seconds and try to restart...it won't unless i push the gas pedal. Any help would be appreciated before i plunk down $600.00.
 
Well at least you know which garage to avoid in the future! Besides $600 is a rip-off even if a torque converter could stop the engine from starting.

Does it crank at all? If it does, try unplugging and replugging the CPS sensor (it's a common problem - do a search). If it doesn't crank at all, see if it will start with the shifter in Neutral. If that fixes it, then search on cleaning the NSS switch.

The only thing I can think of relating to the gas pedal is a bad TPS sensor. Holding the pedal to the floor while cranking tells the engine computer to shut off the injectors so you can clear a flooded engine. A bad TPS might be telling the computer it's floored when it's not.
 
lawsoncl said:
Well at least you know which garage to avoid in the future! Besides $600 is a rip-off even if a torque converter could stop the engine from starting.

Does it crank at all? If it does, try unplugging and replugging the CPS sensor (it's a common problem - do a search). If it doesn't crank at all, see if it will start with the shifter in Neutral. If that fixes it, then search on cleaning the NSS switch.

The only thing I can think of relating to the gas pedal is a bad TPS sensor. Holding the pedal to the floor while cranking tells the engine computer to shut off the injectors so you can clear a flooded engine. A bad TPS might be telling the computer it's floored when it's not.
Click to expand...
Thanks! will update!

BTW...98 XJ 4.0l 4x4 auto.
 
Last edited:
So when you hit the key, it just cranks over and never fires? But pushing the accelerator makes it lite off? I'm still baffled how a bad torque converter would cause these symptoms.

Or is it just not cranking, which might be the NSS sensor which would throw a 705 error code (I think). The NSS takes maybe an hour to remove and clean, btw.

I just hate to see you plunk down $600 when it might be something else.
 
lawsoncl said:
So when you hit the key, it just cranks over and never fires? But pushing the accelerator makes it lite off? I'm still baffled how a bad torque converter would cause these symptoms.

Or is it just not cranking, which might be the NSS sensor which would throw a 705 error code (I think). The NSS takes maybe an hour to remove and clean, btw.

I just hate to see you plunk down $600 when it might be something else.
Click to expand...
I figure since the converter is coming up bad that i should handle it anyway and if it still needs a sensor cleaning or replacement it is not a big deal.
 
going for broke(literally) sprung for the rebuild on the tranny...didnt want to go the used route...we'll see...and hey it's gonna have a warranty!!
 
I think he meant catalytic converter! :passgas: I would put a can of BG 44K in the tank and see if that helps the start situation. Aside from that, a worn TPS will fire once you move the throttle enough for a signal to get to the computer. PS: These trans (AW4) tend to go 200,000+ miles without a problem.
 
I am having a similar problem, however it dies like the key was turned off, all electric seems fine, turns over fast, just wont' start, has fuel pressure...put the Snap-on Scanner on it and didn't turn up any codes however it dies after warm....give it 30 mins to cool and it will fire back up...any ideas? I am going to check the CPS next. as well as fuel filter, not sure what pressure I have or even what it should be.
J
 
carnuck said:
I think he meant catalytic converter! :passgas: I would put a can of BG 44K in the tank and see if that helps the start situation. Aside from that, a worn TPS will fire once you move the throttle enough for a signal to get to the computer. PS: These trans (AW4) tend to go 200,000+ miles without a problem.
Click to expand...
At 150,000 miles mine started with the issues...solenoids etc. this current problem was a perpetually locked torque converter that would not reset as you hit the brakes...therefore a stall would occur...or at least thats what the mech said...this tranny also had a bad shudder when i took off...so the issues were mounting.
 
Pressing the pedal fully does one thing. It tells the computer that the engine is flooded and shuts off the injectors. You are having a problem with running too rich. Check the O2 and the MAP. CPS is not likely. How would it know that the pedal is pressed?

You might check the fuel rail pressure as well. I have seen a bad coil not put out enough fire to start an engine if it was rich but would run once started.
 
dbucfan said:
All work is done...all new internals(duh) on the rebuilt tranny...feels new...great to be back on the road!!
Click to expand...

They rebuilt the tranny for $600? I thought they were going to replace the torque converter (not inside the tranny). Oh well, at least they fixed the problem. I'm just not convinced that a tranny problem will cause a no-start condition.
 
lawsoncl said:
They rebuilt the tranny for $600? I thought they were going to replace the torque converter (not inside the tranny). Oh well, at least they fixed the problem. I'm just not convinced that a tranny problem will cause a no-start condition.
Click to expand...
Supposedly the torque converter would not disengage when the vehicle was turned off...some sensor told the computer that it was engaged and would not allow the engine to start...if it sat supposedly long enough the sensor would reset itself and start up..but then after it was stopped again it would need to sit a while(overnight) before it would start again. As long as it runs well...i'm happy...now the internals are all replaced/solenoids, TC, clutches etc. hopefully this lasts for another 155, 000 miles.
 
dbucfan said:
New problem...still pulling codes 700-740...trans has been rebuilt with a new torque converter and solenoids are new...what else??? HELP!!!
Click to expand...
I know what the code means but after all the work that was done, why would it still set off the check engine light...any ideas?
 
P0700 Transmission Control System Malfunction
This code indicates that the EATX (Transmission controller) has an active fault and has illuminated the MIL via a BUS message.
P0740 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Malfuction
Torque Con Clutch - No RPM Drop at Lockup
Relationship between engine and vehicle speeds indicated failure of torque convertor clutch lock-up system (TCC/PTU sol).

Are these the same codes as before (you didn't give the exact numbers)? If they are, then the shop likely looked at those codes and decided you needed a new torque converter, because the error code implies the t/c is not locking up when commanded. I'm skeptical that you got a tranny rebuild for $600, but thinking instead they just dropped the tranny and stuck on new torque converter. You mentioned they replaced a solenoid too? That would probably be solenoid #3, which could also cause the problem.

So I see a few possibilities:
- The shop installed the wrong torque converter
- The shop didn't actually do anything to the tranny and instead figured out the starting problem and charged you $600 anyway.
- The problem is not and never was the torque converter, but maybe a wiring problem or a problem inside the tranny.
- Bad TCU

I think you need to go back to the shop and ask them to honor their warranty, because they sure didn't fix the problem.
 
lawsoncl said:
P0700 Transmission Control System Malfunction
This code indicates that the EATX (Transmission controller) has an active fault and has illuminated the MIL via a BUS message.
P0740 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Malfuction
Torque Con Clutch - No RPM Drop at Lockup
Relationship between engine and vehicle speeds indicated failure of torque convertor clutch lock-up system (TCC/PTU sol).

Are these the same codes as before (you didn't give the exact numbers)? If they are, then the shop likely looked at those codes and decided you needed a new torque converter, because the error code implies the t/c is not locking up when commanded. I'm skeptical that you got a tranny rebuild for $600, but thinking instead they just dropped the tranny and stuck on new torque converter. You mentioned they replaced a solenoid too? That would probably be solenoid #3, which could also cause the problem.

So I see a few possibilities:
- The shop installed the wrong torque converter
- The shop didn't actually do anything to the tranny and instead figured out the starting problem and charged you $600 anyway.
- The problem is not and never was the torque converter, but maybe a wiring problem or a problem inside the tranny.
- Bad TCU

I think you need to go back to the shop and ask them to honor their warranty, because they sure didn't fix the problem.
Click to expand...
I actually paid 1900 for the rebuild...that price included a new torque converter and all new solenoids(three). They say they are gonna keep working on it till the light goes off and they need to as i cannot pass inspection with the light...the jeeps runs great and shifts awesome.
 
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