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Project Unicorn - a light duty trail rig

I'd have to go digging for a picture, but i installed just a poly bump insert and cut it off about 3/4" below the end of the cup - intending on using the same setup we used on 4643 and not wanting to hear the metal on metal sound every time i hit them.
 
Love it!

Thank you for all the details.
 
cal said:
I'd have to go digging for a picture, but i installed just a poly bump insert and cut it off about 3/4" below the end of the cup - intending on using the same setup we used on 4643 and not wanting to hear the metal on metal sound every time i hit them.
Click to expand...

Cool thanks. That seems like a better way to do them vs a plate up top for it to contact.
 
It's getting there. Considering i started the 4x4 swap in 2016 and I'm still working on it, I've had plenty of time to collect good parts.
 
I've come to the conclusion I can't make up my mind on a rear bumpstop solution and am prepared to entertain suggestions.
 
I'm using the DPG off-road combined shackle plate + bump stop. Easy bolt-on solution for me although I think the shackle plate is a bit long (front-to-back) and may slightly constrain leaf movement. One of these days, I'lll probably whack off some material.
 
I am also using a plate on top of the spring pack. Mine may be from Dirtbound.

What I think that sort of plate design needs is a brace running down to the axle for support. I understand why they are not sold with such an item--there are too many variables in spring pack thickness. But with Dallas' shop at your disposal that should be easy to overcome.

Up above I am using an aftermarket polyurethane bumpstop, the sort that looks like it has a large "U" cut out of the middle of it. That gives a somewhat progressive stop.

That said, given the level of everything else on this build, I expect to see some fancy Fox/King air-bumps as your final answer.
 
With all the air bumps out your worst problem would choosing one!
 
Anak said:
I am also using a plate on top of the spring pack. Mine may be from Dirtbound.

What I think that sort of plate design needs is a brace running down to the axle for support. I understand why they are not sold with such an item--there are too many variables in spring pack thickness. But with Dallas' shop at your disposal that should be easy to overcome.

Up above I am using an aftermarket polyurethane bumpstop, the sort that looks like it has a large "U" cut out of the middle of it. That gives a somewhat progressive stop.

That said, given the level of everything else on this build, I expect to see some fancy Fox/King air-bumps as your final answer.
Click to expand...

While you're right that the 'u-bolt plate' design can be improved by a brace to the axle, the truss I'm already running has a bumpstop plate built in.

20180716_135545-me.jpg



I'm torn between the desire to go full retard and do airbumps, and the simplicity of a poly bump that just bolts in.

To do airbumps, I'm going to have to either take my leaf packs apart and run just the main leaf so I can put the axle to its compressed location and measure exaaaaaactly where to put the can to hit that pad, or replace my top plates and do air bumps that go into the frame and bump off the leaf. Both of those are going to cost me $700 and 2 full weekends.

4643 only had poly bumps and seemed to work pretty damned good, and that would be way less work.

But then I convice myself something like this might line right up and be easy to build.

BPS1010XJ.jpg


And do something like the Daystar stinger bumps that I can upgrade to air bumps later if i want.

https://www.polyperformance.com/daystar-stinger-bump-stops
 
Everyone I've talked to with the Daystar cans has usually said don't waste your money. I vote do it once do it right with some air bumps, or just go with some cheap slotted poly bumps from daystar. I have 2 pairs sitting at home so that's what my rear is getting for the time being til I figure out the budget for air bumps.

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk
 
It is cheap enough to start with the simple poly. If you find it doesn't work out for you then step up the game, knowing that it is a big step up.
 
Its cheap and easy enough, but its hard to get motivated to go take the car back apart again.

Right now it's on the lift and apart. Once I start driving it..
 
cal said:
Its cheap and easy enough, but its hard to get motivated to go take the car back apart again.

Right now it's on the lift and apart. Once I start driving it..
Click to expand...

Be honest with yourself...

It is a Jeep.

Do you really think you won't have it back up on a lift, working on it, again? And again?

(That said, I think of all my vehicles Scope Creep is the one that has the fewest things wrong with it. Probably largely due to the fact that Scope Creep has the fewest features.)
 
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