• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

FRONT BRAKES STICKING

B

bdavid

NAXJA Forum User
Location
USA
98 cherokee non abs.

Both front brakes are sticking, I replaced both calipers rotors and pads about 5 months ago. I have RE steel braided lines on it also.

I dont think both calipers would be bad at the same time. What would cause this???????? When i put the truck on jack stands and try to turn the front wheels they have a huge amount of drag. There is no grooves on the caliper mounts were the pads slide. When i pulled the calipers and pushed the piston back in the wheels move free, But as soon as i hit the brakes it does it again

1. New calipers, rotors, pads 5 months ago

2. Newer RE steel lines.

3. No grooves on the caliper mounts were the pads slide.

4. Does not pull to one side during braking, or during driving.


I did search and the only thing i found was for when one wheel is sticking not both.
 
Gotta be the master cylinder holding brake pressure somehow....?

When they stick, try unbolting the master cylinder by loosening
the bolts a couple turns, and see if that releases the brakes.
 
Is the brake pedal failing to return fully?
 
You could check out this theory by opening the bleeders at the calipers for 10 seconds or so. This would let the pressure off. I have heard of not having free play between the booster rod and the master cylinder, but that should only not let the port be clear to allow more fluid in to the master. When the pedal comes up, it should still release the pressure. If you open a bleeder and it just flows slowly, there was no pressure. If it squirts strongly, there was.
 
Yes, exactly what winterbeater says above. Crack open your bleeder and see if that releases the drag. If it does, then your system is holding pressure somehow (check master cylinder, proportioning valve). If it doesn't release, then you have a mechanical issue at the wheel - either the caliper piston is sticking or the rotors are so warped they drag all the time. I know it's hard to believe both wheels would have the same issue, but I had this problem on mine and it was both rotors warped from the PO riding the brakes. Good luck and please report back on what you discover.
 
someone once told me that older brake lines can collapse or pinch in slightly and cause brakes to stick...I knew I guy with a renix having these issues and he replaced his lines and was good to go.
 
I did pump the brakes untill they were hard with the car off then cracked the bleeders. They both did not spurt out fluid just trickeled out.

As for the pins i will check them and make sure they are not bent or groved and will re lube them with some brake pin grease....
 
OK,

I took the calipers back off and there were some pretty big marks were the pads ride, I dont rember seeing them before. I ground them down flat, I know you are supposed to weld them in but i really did not have time tonight.

I also regreased the pins and contact patches were the pads ride . And power bled the front brakes( did not have time to do the back yet). It seems to be ok..


Thanks for all your help I will kepp you all informed when i drive it some more......:thumbup:
 
Here is another question that might be far fetched.

You said you replaed the calipers a few months ago but , Were they new or rebuilt? Were they properly sealed against dust and road debris (road salt come to mind) getting between the piston and the bore?

Both wheels sticking indicate a common problem. Look for the obvious first then look at other things that may be common between both wheels/calipers.
 
Still draging..................

Front are still not releasing from rotors. Could this be in the master cylinder?
The brakes work great but the front pads are not leting the wheels spin free
 
This probably doesn't apply here there are 2 different size rotors 1\8 height difference will cause this problem.
 
You do know that the pads aren't supposed to fully release from the rotors, right? There will always be a certain amount of drag, even if they are working right. Not a huge amount, but some.

It surprises me how many people think that the pads are supposed to completely come off the rotor when the brakes aren't applied. They think the brakes work like a 10 speed bike.

The hoses can fail inside, causing a little "flap" that acts as a valve, not letting the pressure release. Usually though, it won't let enough pressure release to even turn the wheel.
 
your brake booster can cause this as well


try remove the vacuum hose (big one) off the brake booster behind the master cylinder and try again and see if the wheels drags again or not. if it does, that would means your brake booster component(s) has failed and constantly applying a bit of pressure on the master cylinder which cause dragging brakes. this's a another thing to check out before pinpoint something to replace
 
The 96 I'm trying to sell has this exact issue. New soft lines, calipers, rotors, and pads. Abs is bypassed electrically, after driving 10m, the fronts begin to drag. I'll first see if removing booster vacuum frees them up, and then maybe loosening the master from the booster.
 
If you happened to have done a booster swap or had it out for any reason, even a small adjustment to the adjuster pin that pushes on the master plunger can make the front brakes drag. I found that out the hard way.
 
I didn't notice the stock brake booster had a spacer and the used replacement didn't(duhme):
ee03c75f04998ffbbc11d780e53ed79d.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

M
Poor pedal feel and weak brakes.
Replies
15
Views
2K
Bill Mc
B
X
My brakes are crap
Replies
12
Views
3K
xjklmnop69
X
B
Dash brake light on after replacing rear brakes
Replies
1
Views
1K
RCP Phx
R
T
Quick question on stuck caliper
Replies
12
Views
2K
PacificEd
PacificEd
X
Making the frame purdy
2 3
Replies
40
Views
516
RCP Phx
R
Back
Top