thank you for the pictures, this greatly helps thinking about the lay out.
I kinda was leaning on building one like clayton/db/the crazy diy post for cost sake. i can at least go from 1000$ to 500$. i dont suspect these guys make that much off a kit unless theyre getting great wholesale steel/joint prices.
I wasnt able to get much more than 5" separation and keeping the upper link as flat as ide like, at least not without making lower mounts a boat anchor.
making a kit thats adjustable like claytons is important to me as well, Iro is sweet, but a PIA to adjust.
I got my material at cost and joints on sale. By the time I was done, factor in wire, gas, time, I didn’t come out that far ahead. 5” at the frame is enough. And it’s what you’ll have to settle with without taking the frame side lowers even lower, or pushing the frame side upper through the floor.
For what it’s worth, I built adjustability into mine. Doing it again, I wouldn’t. The space is so small your “jumps” between intervals are big enough. The average driver isn’t going to notice the difference in 5% antidive.
How much did you clearance the floor in? This is not something ide like to do lol. Ill need to see how much flex I can manage before the upper link hits. There is not much room as it sits and raising the axle side mount seemingly wouldnt help any.
not much. I misspoke earlier. It’s just a tiny bump behind the throttle pedal. Right next to the bell housing. It’s not noticeable. Just hammer it. I had about 5” of bump before going to prothanes.
Did you use 2"dom on the upper link?
1.75 x .120 wall DOM. The lowers were 2 x .25 DOM. I bent those. Do 2” aluminum.
I have one of their front bumpers, decent products thus far.
I have extended upper bump stops, ide have to get this 3 link on then see about more lift/bump planning with new tires, likely adding puck or such.
anyone have pictures of the DS/pinion clashing with the upper link?
i need to get some PVC and ballpark if i want to link driver still or passenger side.
i had originally planned to do passenger but couldn’t because of the exhaust. The more I played with it the more I realized I preferred the upper on the drivers side for precise pinion control. If you do the passenger side... as the vehicle articulates, driver dropped, passenger side compressed, the control arm is going to roll the pinion down which is at droop. No Good. There is a way to get around this... but it’s just easier to put it on the drivers side.
while on the calculator i see the trac bar is forward more on the upper side. is it ideal to have this parallel with the front axle?
put the trackbar where it fits. It’s only controlling cross car movement. Important design properties (IN ORDER):
- parallel to trackbar.
- as close to the same length as tie rod as possible
- pivot points as close to steering pivot points (when viewed from the front) as possible
Follow that and I think it’ll locate itself. If you want to knit pick... set it up so that the trackbar is 90 degrees cross car at the 50/50 split in travel (which isn’t necessarily ride height) and that’ll be ablout as good as it gets to minimize lateral axle travel.