outlander
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Columbus,Ohio
im putting a knock sensor on my 89 xj and have searched high or low for the torque spec.
Anyone know?
Anyone know?
-
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renix knock sensor torque value?
- Thread starter outlander
- Start date
JeepNoob
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Pueblo, Colorado
Just tried doing this job on my Renix today. The VatoZone knock sensor I bought (DO NOT BUY!!!) came with instructions, 29 ft/lbs for the stud, 15 ft/lbs for the nut. You'll need a 15/16" deep socket, which means it'll probably be 1/2" drive, so figure on using a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter, plus a 3/8" ratchet and torque wrench.
In my case, the threads on the cheese-grade steel VatoZone stud wouldn't even take 29 ft/lbs before flattening right out and loosening up. I believe OMIX-ADA makes knock sensors for Renix XJ's. That'll be what I go with next.
In my case, the threads on the cheese-grade steel VatoZone stud wouldn't even take 29 ft/lbs before flattening right out and loosening up. I believe OMIX-ADA makes knock sensors for Renix XJ's. That'll be what I go with next.
outlander
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Columbus,Ohio
oh wow 15 ftlbs sounds way high....sould be as small as inch lbs.
these sensors have a fragile piezo crystal in them.
these sensors have a fragile piezo crystal in them.
lawsoncl
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- North Idaho
The center of the sensor is a metal sleeve, so the nut isn't directly compressing or preloading the piezo. I work with accelerometers and load cells that are preloaded by the attachment bolt, and those require exact slow torquing to allow the crystal to bleed down and not blow out the preamps.
- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
Nut? and Stud? There is just a male stud on it to thread into the block IIRC.
It just needs to be tight enough to not move or fall out as the engine temp cycles up and down. There is no torque spec. Only thing I have ever used a torque wrench on is head bolts and bearing wheel nuts. The rest get my stuff is torque calibrated to the snug-enough spec using my wrist torque.
It just needs to be tight enough to not move or fall out as the engine temp cycles up and down. There is no torque spec. Only thing I have ever used a torque wrench on is head bolts and bearing wheel nuts. The rest get my stuff is torque calibrated to the snug-enough spec using my wrist torque.
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- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
I think the nut was already factory torqued on mine. If that is even the style I bought? Slept since them LOL. As I recall you can buy just the black part now too. And it would have probably include re-torque specs if they even exist? But that is the new style sensor. The old / OEM one for Renix was very different as I recall. IT had no nut top side:
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outlander
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Columbus,Ohio
yea i have the black aftermarket sensor in the above pic.
i put it back in with normal "wrist torque"
seems to be fine....i have a renix diagnostic module and the knock counts seem to be okay and the ignition advance seems normal so on to the next.....thanks to all replied :cheers:
i put it back in with normal "wrist torque"
seems to be fine....i have a renix diagnostic module and the knock counts seem to be okay and the ignition advance seems normal so on to the next.....thanks to all replied :cheers:
