From another thread(forget who posted it, sorry):
The Bearing for the Clutch is NOT a press in interference fit. It is a tight fit, that you have to tap out gingerly with a hammer. There must be different clutches on the Compressor, mine had a snap ring holding in the bearing, while Ed Rico's had tabs stamped down on the outer race to hold it in (thats how its done on my mini-van clutch). Might explain why the 5001-KFF bearing that is listed fits some, while others, like myself found the 5001-KFF doesn't fit and you need the smaller 35BD219DUK.
Like mentioned, the simplified procedure:
Before beginning, measure the Air Gap between plates, its set by shims, since your already taking it apart, you can adjust it for wear to the proper air gap by removing shims.
You need snap ring pliers, for inside & outside snap rings, you can usually find them for ~$10. Its worth the money, needle nose pliers in that tight spot will take several hours to get the snap rings out.
1.)Remove the Belt
2.)Remove the Bolt on the Front Plate of the Clutch (the clutch turns with the wrench, this is where an air impact wrench or socket is really handy)
3.)Pull/Pry the Front Plate off the clutch (this clutch has bolt hole for a small puller, other clutches I've just pried off with 2 flat head screw drivers on opposite sides, this clutch is very tight and I had to use excessive force to pry it off, I haven't put it back together yet [still waiting for the bearing to come in the mail] but its possible I've warped or damaged the front plate, so consider trying to find/use a puller if able)
3b.)Remove/Collect the shims between the compressor shaft and the front of the front plate of the clutch. (some will be inside the collar of the front plate some will be stuck on the front shaft of the compressor, some may have even fallen out and be on the ground)
4.)Remove the snap ring from the compressor snout that holds the clutch pulley on.
5.)Remove the pulley from the compressor snout. (other clutch I could just pull it off, again this one was tight, I had to gentle tap it off with a hammer at the back of the pulley, turn the pulley between strikes and be careful not to strike the electromagnet coil inside and at the back of the pulley).
6.)Remove the snap ring on the back of the pulley. (According to Ed his had stamped down tabs holding the bearing in, that had to be ground off)
7.)Remove the bearing, by tapping it out with a hammer using a drift. (since the bearing is bad, you don't have to worry about damaging)
8.)Install new bearing, by tapping it in with a hammer using a socket or drift. (only strike the outside race, if you strike the inside race the bearings will take all the shock and load and you can damage them. Either use a large socket that fits the outer race or get it started with a block of wood, then switch to drift moving it around to different parts of the outer race.)
9.)Install is the reverse of the removal.
10.)If your going to adjust the air gap, figure out how much has to be removed to get to the spec air gap, (I couldn't find a figure in the Haynes manual, but other clutches are about 0.020"-0.040") find a shim or several shims that match up to the feeler gauge for the distance that has be removed and then remove those shims from the stack. In my case, I just had 2 shims, and need to go down 0.020" to be at min air gap, as well the clutch was engaging fine before, so I'm just going to remove one shim, probably drop me 0.010", it will be in the center of the spec.
