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Noise- trans wont engage (2wd)

twoplanker

NAXJA Forum User
Location
San Diego
This is my first (but not last) Jeep. It has 180,000+ and has really grown on me. I am a garage hack and think I can fix most anything, but am not a pro. I plan on dropping a rebuilt 4.0 in it this summer- hopefully later than sooner.

The problem began with a ticking (exhaust) sound which increased with temp. The noise was consistent for a week until the fateful day. A vibration developed with the ticking (hopefully related), but then at speed, both subsided. Later the vibration became more violent followed by a screaming sound. At that time, I parked it and called for a tow. Now, I can cycle through the gears (auto) but the trans will not engage. Fluids seem ok but I need to get it level to be sure. Trans fluid is pink/ light red. I do add oil bi-weekly due to the leaking seal which I will fix with this issue. I have posted video of the undercarriage which is a mess, and of the noise here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZoJDpFDucGo
and
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Px1YPJqwVY

So, where should I start? Is this a drive-train or power-train issue?
Any input will be appreciated. I plan on tackling this over the next couple of weeks.
 
Have you checked the torque converter to flexplate bolts?

Have you checked for cracks/broken flexplate?
 
Pull the inspection cover, bright spotlight and pry bar, have a friend turn the engine over with a breaker bar and socket on the crank pulley bolt--pulling the spark plugs makes it all go easier.
 
And if the flexplate isn't turning when you crank the engine, it's a dead giveaway that the flexplate is completely sheared off at the crank.

-Edit: Nevermind, if it were completely sheared, the engine wouldn't be running.
 
A**uming you are doing it on your back, a transmission saddle for your floor jack would be great. If you can't rent one of those, then using two floor jacks and some Walmart ratchet straps, and be very careful.

You need to get the trans out, repair the flexplate (get the sheared bolts out, maybe run a tap through the threads). Make sure to fully seat the torque converter into the transmission so that the "ears" on the torque converter are fully seated and locked into the pump in the transmission, THEN put the transmission back in.

If you pull the spark plugs it makes rotating the engine easier to bring the flexplate holes into line with the torque converter so you can install the new bolts.

Good luck.

EDIT: Harbor Freight trans saddle: http://www.harborfreight.com/floor-jack-transmission-adapter-39152.html
 
Last edited:
Ok, all of your responses have been very helpful- thanks!
I am taking my time, but can see that it is not going to be very difficult (knock on wood). Drive shaft is off. Next is the exhaust.
Based on some threads (this site and others), as well as prior experience, I have concerns/ unknowns that need to be resolved prior to the removal.

1. Tips on removing the exhaust at the Cat. I replaced the CC a year ago (clamps) and had a hell of a time with it, so any advice on this will be appreciated. If need be, I can break out my 12lb sledge- lol. Should I start at the manifold?
2. More info on the crank sensor - from other threads I've read, this is a delicate issue.
Will replacing the flexplate be an issue with the CPS?
3. I was told that it is easy to assume the TC is seated when it is not. Do I just rotate and push?

Thanks for the input.
 
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