XJ axle swap/build

[DocTremp]

Droop


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[Nates2000XJ]

I'd say run it like that. I'm thinking you should shoot for parallel track bar/drag link at ride height +/- a few inches which is where you're going to encounter the vast majority of moderate/high speed bumps that would cause bump steer. In other words, you need to be moving at speed for bump steer to be an issue. That pretty much will never be the case for your jeep at full bump or droop unless you're going through woops that fully cycle your front suspension. Hopefully that made sense

[89Mock]

Run it. They look like they travel in the same arc enough to minimize bump steer.

[DocTremp]

Thank you both for your input. I still have this mount but I’m concerned about clearance for a Currie style sway bar. I’m in the Process of fabbing another mount that does not stick out so far from the frame rail, to get that clearance for the sway bar. We’ll see how it goes, if it doesn’t I still have this one.


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[Rob D]

I had a similar setup on mine for quite awhile. If there was any bump steer, it was't really noticeable. Even the larger dips in the freeways that caused the suspension to cycle more than normal didn't cause me any issues. My axle was narrowed about 2 inches and I'm still using my old Full-Traction trackbar mount on the frame making my trackbar shorter than your t.b. looks to be. My axle end was whatever TNT gave me for the over-the-knuckle steering.

[DocTremp]

Been a while since I’ve posted. Between getting the coof and traveling with the family I haven’t had much time to work on the Jeep. But I was able to get the 3rd track bar bracket in and it is parallel at ride height and the length is very close between track bar and drag link now. Have the front axle almost done. Need to install steering box brace and shock mounts, weld tie rod, then trim fenders more. Finally have it sitting on its own weight.



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[DocTremp]

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[Nates2000XJ]

Yes! The wheel and body color go well together. Much work to be done but you're on the home stretch

[DocTremp]

Originally Posted by Nates2000XJ

Yes! The wheel and body color go well together. Much work to be done but you're on the home stretch

Thank you! I’m pretty happy with it. Do you have any wise words for me as I get ready to do the rear axle?


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[Nates2000XJ]

Measure 5 times weld once haha. in all seriosity it'll be a lot more convenient to have another pair of hand help align the axle/set the pinion angle. What's the plan for drivelines?

[DocTremp]

Measure 5x is a good idea for sure. I’ve been thinking about using a laser level or a pointer to set pinion angle. I have a couple friends who are more than willing to help so that’s nice.

I haven’t really planned to much in regards to drive shafts. I was hoping the original ones might fit but I think the rear will need to be shortened and the front will need to be lengthened. If that’s the case I might try to lengthen/shorten then myself and sleeve them at the same time to make them beefy and keep them straight. Did you do new custom length drive shafts?


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[Nates2000XJ]

To set the angle I used a piece of pvc pipe cut to within an inch (imagine it’s the driveshaft) between the two yoke nuts. Use an angle finder on the pinion yoke and match the angle with the pvc pipe. This was the fastest way for me to dial in a rough angle then I tighten down the spring perches and carefully adjusted until I could repeatedly and reliably get the same measurement. I’ve gone +70mph without a hint of driveline vibes.

South Bay Driveline. Have had nothing but positive things to say for them and their work.


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[DocTremp]

That’s a good idea, I have some PVC lying around from my mock up links. For squaring your axle to the body, what landmarks did you measure from?

Thanks, I’ll check them out.


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[Rob D]

For the d60 I just finished, and the d44 that it replaced, I just used the axle flanges at the end of the tubes to measure to the spring pads, after I figured out the center-to-center for the spring pads first.

Also, some people recommend to have the yoke slightly down, 1 or 2 degrees, from a straight line for the driveline angle. Once it's under power, while driving, it makes up that difference from the torque required to keep the rig moving while driving.

[DocTremp]

Originally Posted by Rob D

For the d60 I just finished, and the d44 that it replaced, I just used the axle flanges at the end of the tubes to measure to the spring pads, after I figured out the center-to-center for the spring pads first.

Also, some people recommend to have the yoke slightly down, 1 or 2 degrees, from a straight line for the driveline angle. Once it's under power, while driving, it makes up that difference from the torque required to keep the rig moving while driving.

Thank you for the input, Rob. I’m doing ruff stuff u-bolt eliminators, so my plan is to bolt the bracket to the leaf springs, then lower it onto the axle which will be on Jack stands and I’m hoping that way will make it easy to square and to set pinion angle.

Did you set your pinion angle 1-2 deg down on both your axles? How did it treat you if so?


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