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XJ axle swap/build

Did some digging and WJ booster isn’t compatible with the Durango/Dakota MCs. Need a 97-01 booster now.


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I wish I knew what you were doing. I learned the hard way too. It needs to be 3 1/2” spacing for the studs to line up with the master cylinder. Have you checked a Dodge Ram 2500 from the 98-2000 year? Maybe a local parts store has one you can measure.
 
So I ended up using the same MC as Nate, and it fit fine but the push rod in the booster (97-01) was too long and my pedal was bottoming out in the MC about 3 inches from the firewall. I now have a 96 booster which is supposed to be the correct one that works with 86-94 (I think) XJs. But on top of that I have not been able to get a good hard pedal. Bled it 3-4x in the correct pattern. Going to put this new booster in and bleed it again. Hopefully i can get it bled right this time.


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Being a 90 with a 95/96 booster, you will need to grind down a section of the rod for your brake switch to work. Or you can retrofit a later model switch and figure a way to have it hit the pedal. Otherwise your brake lights won't work.
 
Sooo V8 durango master cylinder and brake booster off a 96 XJ with the pedal hella modified so it connects to the stock pedal?
 
Being a 90 with a 95/96 booster, you will need to grind down a section of the rod for your brake switch to work. Or you can retrofit a later model switch and figure a way to have it hit the pedal. Otherwise your brake lights won't work.


Yes, that’s been done. I think it’s the flasher or a ground. Found I have a lot of air in the system regardless of bleeding it a lot


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Gotcha. I have the WJ booster and (probably) the stock 89 master and the brakes are horrible on mine with a Dana 60 front. They were great with stock axles though. The Durango master wouldn’t fit the booster so I’m now fishing for something different.
 
I have straight up manual brakes on the buggy, with Ford dual piston Dana 60 calipers up front and the typical 3/4 ton Chevy front calipers in the rear, and it’s pretty nice. Buggy though so I don’t really get past second gear in high range.
 
Gotcha. I have the WJ booster and (probably) the stock 89 master and the brakes are horrible on mine with a Dana 60 front. They were great with stock axles though. The Durango master wouldn’t fit the booster so I’m now fishing for something different.


Yeah. I had a similar set up with stock axles and it was awesome. Now I have a similar set up to Phil, and it giving me fits getting it bled. You might want to look into 96 booster. It fit well for me with the Durango mc.


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I have straight up manual brakes on the buggy, with Ford dual piston Dana 60 calipers up front and the typical 3/4 ton Chevy front calipers in the rear, and it’s pretty nice. Buggy though so I don’t really get past second gear in high range.


I have a similar set up but I have the el dorado calipers with the ebrake arm. What mc/booster are you running?


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Yeah. I had a similar set up with stock axles and it was awesome. Now I have a similar set up to Phil, and it giving me fits getting it bled. You might want to look into 96 booster. It fit well for me with the Durango mc.


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I found a 95 booster and discovered the Ram 1500 has the same master. So now I need to apparently adjust the booster rod length and install everything.
 
I have a similar set up but I have the el dorado calipers with the ebrake arm. What mc/booster are you running?


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I have no brake booster. I have a CNC dual master cylinder. I don’t have the size listed electronically, I think I must have ordered from Kartek over the phone, and will dig through my stack of receipts to see if it is there.
 
I have no brake booster. I have a CNC dual master cylinder. I don’t have the size listed electronically, I think I must have ordered from Kartek over the phone, and will dig through my stack of receipts to see if it is there.


Oh I got you. Thanks! That would be cool to look into.


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I got the 96 and I didn’t have to adjust the booster push rod.


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I didn’t either. I took a whole bunch of measurements between what I had, and what I NOW have. Difference was something along the lines of 0.06”. Yes 0.06” because micrometer and math. They’re much better and bolt in.
 
I didn’t either. I took a whole bunch of measurements between what I had, and what I NOW have. Difference was something along the lines of 0.06”. Yes 0.06” because micrometer and math. They’re much better and bolt in.


Glad you got it all figured out!
Im still getting air out of my system. Looking like it might have something to do with my eldorado calipers being hard to bleed.


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Glad you got it all figured out!
Im still getting air out of my system. Looking like it might have something to do with my eldorado calipers being hard to bleed.


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I had a set of calipers where the bleeder screw was just a shitty mold. When I cracked it to bleed fluid it actually let air flow through the threads. It sucked ass. I bought totally different calipers. They’re stilll kind of crappy but hold pressure better. When I loosen the bleeder you can wiggle it just not AS much. Just thought I’d pass this on.
 
I had a set of calipers where the bleeder screw was just a shitty mold. When I cracked it to bleed fluid it actually let air flow through the threads. It sucked ass. I bought totally different calipers. They’re stilll kind of crappy but hold pressure better. When I loosen the bleeder you can wiggle it just not AS much. Just thought I’d pass this on.


Yeah, I was concerned about that happening so I ordered the speed bleeders that seal the threads and have a one way valve, I also orders a vacuum bleeder kit. We’ll see what happens


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