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Switching to AN fitting for auto trans

Looks good.....I may duplicate this upgrade in the near future, but will use 90* AN fittings for this cooler orientation.
 
A B&M 70273 cooler fit's really nicely. though i used 90 brass fittings and soft hose to the factory hardline. they can be easly apadted for use AN line. you can fit two side by side for use as Trans and P/S.
 
I 2nd the 70273 -- Has 1/2" NPT female threads for the inlet/outlet fitting -- Nice and strong
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It's been getting up to our regular temps(110*) so I've had a chance to see what I accomplished. It takes a little longer to warm up and it runs about 5* cooler, but the biggest change so far has been more consistent/stable temps. When I get a chance to tow my trailer, I will know if it really made a change. Here's the completed pics.
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Nice job,wish mine were that clean,but that comes from living in a mud free environment.
 
The rubber/steel ones are from Ace, and the separators are from Earl's(Summit).
 
I have found what I was looking for. I called Griffin yesterday to verify the lower fitting - it is "3/8" SAE Male Quick-dis-connect! I just got off the phone with Holley regarding all the specs. It should work perfectly!
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Can you post the p/n for the quick disconnect fitting?

Thanks
 
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I'm installing a B&M 70273 trans cooler and discovered that the factory transmission hose routing on my XJ conflicts with diagram from the FSM.

On my rig, the Outlet line routes from the front port of the trans into the bottom of the radiator heat exchanger, then out the top of the radiator and into the external factory cooler, then back to the transmission rear Inlet port.

The hose connections types don't allow for the routing to be reversed and I'm not sure how the cooling effectiveness differs with the fluid flowing top to bottom VS bottom to top.

I'll be bypassing the heat exchanger in the radiator anyway, so this info will become irrelevant after tomorrow.
 
Don't you think you would get better flow flowing from bottom to top

No air pockets, gravity not pulling fluid in one direction, full fill and use of the cooler
 
I kept the radiator cooler because I do a lot of wheeling in Colorado. For 15yrs it was plumbed from the rad to the Hayden cooler. When I built my stroker I wanted to change that. The new set-up is output from trans to bottom of Hayden, top of Hayden to bottom of rad, top of rad to return. It now runs at straight regardless of load/time/conditions.
 
Thanks for posting this link in the other radiator thread. I just did this this to mine and I have a few questions for you about temps if you would like to answer since our set ups and location seem to be so similar.


I went with the AN 6 adapter from Summit out of the trans and added a sending unit right there. I ordered new solid lines from amazon and modified them a little. I also picked up the Ridgid 37 degree flare tool to go from the stock solid lines to AN 6 with the nuts and bushings from Summit. Mine runs out of the trans to a spin on filter adapter I mounted to the cross member up front under the radiator that holds a filter the same as the engine oil filter. From there, I used aluminum hard line again from Summit to go to the bottom of the same Hayden cooler you have. Out the top with the aluminum hard line to the bottom of the factory trans cooler in the radiator (with a short hose between the two). I used the stock outlet line from the top of the radiator cooler and had it and the inlet modified by my favorite local hose shop. They brazed or soldered AN 6 adapters where I wanted them and then made all of the soft hoses with hydraulic type fittings to tie it all together.


At the time I did this, I replaced the radiator with a new stock style, water pump(gates), cap, thermostat and all the coolant hoses. I was able to flush the block with a steam cleaner and flushed the heater core as well. I also replaced the fan clutch with the ZJ one from Napa.


All of that out of the way, it seems to run hot in town. Stop and go when its 100 or better outside keeps both temps around 220 or better. I haven't wheeled it yet but I imagine the condition will be worse when crawling along. It will also overheat when idling for extended periods in gear or not. When it is warm, the engine and trans run about the same temp. The highway is a completely different story. The trans takes a long time to warm up and runs way cooler (150 to 160, 170 if ambient is over 100) than the engine, which stays on the thermostat (185 or so). The highway condition was anticipated and is why I used the factory trans cooler in addition to the external. The idea being to put some water heat in the atf to keep it from being too cool at high speeds. I was hoping for some additional heat exchange the other way at low speeds though (the ATF taking some water heat). Now being that the stock and aftermarket trans coolers are of different size and efficiency, I had no idea what to expect but the results are much less than desired. I was really hoping for consistency and slightly better cooling more than anything.



I'm just guessing here that the increased hot air flow from the trans cooler coming across the radiator with the more robust ZJ fan clutch is aggravating the stop and go and Idle condition. My air conditioner seems to be oblivious though. Until I get to the high of the highs, it still blows ice cold as it always has and is the requirement for our area.


Now I'm leaning towards a "better" radiator. I have avoided one thus far because of the interwebs horror stories and a little prior experience with a Dodge pickup that got hotter and hotter as the radiators got bigger and aluminumer.


Are you experiencing the desired consistent cool temps or do you have wild fluctuations like me?
 
My temps after the trans cooler re-do were very stable maybe fluctuating about 5* under different load conditions. Since then I added a power steering cooler which I thought might add to the heat loading, but I also since that install, have changed my injectors again and had my PCM tuned with a change in the electric fan "turn-on" temp. Now it just makes to 210* with Zero change under any conditions!
https://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1148990
 
That's what I'm looking for. I did the 4 hole injector swap about 30k miles ago and it did run cooler after that.
We had our first little cool spell yesterday. I did 65 freeway miles this morning and the trans only got up to 135. The engine of course was nice and cool too. I will probably have to ride like this for the winter until I can save up for a fancy radiator. A fender bender last week put me in the need for a wheel and 2 tires so that will soak up the cash for a little bit aaaand then Christmas with 3 wee ones running around.
 
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