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sort of technical question

Ewenm

NAXJA Forum User
hi all, I've had an XJ limited for 20 years and so can comfortably say know i know 90's jeeps. ( the XJ is a 1994 with 4370000km)

so i got lucky and came across a 1999 ZJ grand cherokee limited, 375000 km on it and unregistered, just expired, excellent body work stock as a rock good tyres and stunningly good grey/black leather interior, only the outer edge of drivers seat showing any wear.

so question time. i asked over on a Grand Cherokee site but as yet have no response so I'm taking the punt that many XJers also have later models.

so here goes

do the ZJ,s of this age have the head cracking issues of the later XJ,s?

the owner thought it had a stuffed transfer case but said it would still drive but was noisy, so driving the couple of KMs home i felt the noise was more from the front and was worse under acceleration and when turning and the load being on the front RH wheel.

so i got under it and the front rh brake calliper seems to be loose when compared to the lhs, and then i saw that the diff end of the front drive shaft that the boot was split and there seemed to be excessive side to side play in the drive shaft CV.

anyone want to comment if in there opinion that would be the problem.

for me the noise sounds for all the world like a front wheel drive car with shot CVs, this car though has had two new drive shafts fitted.

first job is to get a battery though as this one is dead.

ill be changing all fluids, but will first want to address the noise.

as this is a constant all wheel drive i don't have the option i guess to pull the front shaft.


thanks for reading and any input greatly appreciated

and yes i could search but I'm betting someone has all the info i need at there fingertips, and the sooner its fixed the soon I'm driving it heheh


thanks again
 
do the ZJ,s of this age have the head cracking issues of the later XJ,s?

so i got under it and the front rh brake calliper seems to be loose when compared to the lhs, and then i saw that the diff end of the front drive shaft that the boot was split and there seemed to be excessive side to side play in the drive shaft CV.

for me the noise sounds for all the world like a front wheel drive car with shot CVs, this car though has had two new drive shafts fitted.

Head cracking depends on if it is a 0331 or not, you can tell by if it has a coil rail.
The head model number is also cast into the head.

Since it is full-time, AWD, you need the CV front axle.
If the transfer case has a 2WD position, u-joint axles could be used.
It's a 4WD axle, you cannot remove the axle and still drive it, the axle shaft holds the hub bearing together, driving without the shaft will result in the bearing coming apart, bringing you to a stop.
 
If the noise changes with load on that side it's likely a wheel bearing. But changing the shft won't hurt either.

Are you sure it's a 99 zj? At least here 98 was last year then 99 became the wj
 
all good guys sorted it, some half wit decided it was a good idea to strip the thread on the rh front calliper, mounting bolt, and then tried to glue it in, no I'm not joking.

cleaned out the thread, with a tap and die, found a new bolt and noise gone, i suppose at least they fitted new pads thats something.

but somebody could have been killed, morons.
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Are you sure it's a 99 zj? At least here 98 was last year then 99 became the wj

it probably is a '98 but sold here in 1999 (Australia)
 
all good guys sorted it, some half wit decided it was a good idea to strip the thread on the rh front calliper, mounting bolt, and then tried to glue it in, no I'm not joking.

cleaned out the thread, with a tap and die, found a new bolt and noise gone, i suppose at least they fitted new pads thats something.

but somebody could have been killed, morons.

You guys have stupid people on your end of the planet too???

I thought they only "fixed" cars around here.

I dont feel so alone in my suffering now. ;)
 
oh it gets better.
question, what do you do when you have a worn and noisy front drive shaft CV.

answer, well stupid, you move the inner collar to a new position and WELD it to the shaft, that way the balls have a new running surface, huh now wasn't that easy, didn't cost a cent.
 
:doh:
 
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