• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Track bar and bracket issue

Sounds good. I've been looking around for decent hardware but I can't find the right sized flanged nuts and bolts in 10.9 anywhere locally so I think I'll order from Fastenal unless someone has a better suggestion. They look to be 12m 1.75x40. I'd like to keep it correct as much as possible and avoid switching to SAE.

Also do you know the proper torque for these? My Haynes manual just list the bar to axel nut torque at 74 but I don't see anything for the bracket.

I use Mcaster Carr all the time and they are in your backyard!
 
I use Mcaster Carr all the time and they are in your backyard!
Good call. We used to order from them at a shop I worked at and they deliver fast. That's enough to make it OK that I have to get 10 packs. Couldn't hurt to have some extra hardware around at least.
 
The larger size stuff may even come in 5's, either way besides a "flanged" nut also look for "serrated" and possibly even a "flange" head bolt!
 
I wish someone would sell a self drill track bar bracket so the end user can set track bar exactly parrel with drag link.
I feel bumpsteer is being asked for by mixing parts brands. Things could be made worse instead of better

Im not sure lift height has much bearing on wether or not frame and steering strengthing are required the end use does especially if drag link and track bar are fighting with eachother.

I to wonderd if those Horizontal track bar bracket holes were slotted from the factory

Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk
 
I don't remember (any of) those holes not being round.
That's not reassuring but hopefully it won't be too much of an issue. If needed I can have the welding taken care of. For now, I went ahead and ordered the IRO double shear bar and bracket. Hopefully it will work out for me as well as it had for everyone else.
 
I went ahead and ordered the IRO double shear bar and bracket.

Sorry to hear that, you really need a flex joint at the frame-rail and a cross-brace option!
 
Even Jeep knew that the joint has to move in the x-y-z axis that's why they used a ball joint on that end! The IRO trackbar can only move in one axis.
 
Gotcha. This isn't an area that I know much about but lots of people with similar setups to mine to seem to be happy double shear IRO so maybe it will work out for me.
 
Double shear is great, but it doesn't have anything to do with the movement of the joint. It can lead to "elongation of the mount holes and uni-frame cracking".
 
We can't "edit" anymore, but the cross-brace helps eliminate those issues also!
 
Gotcha. This isn't an area that I know much about but lots of people with similar setups to mine to seem to be happy double shear IRO so maybe it will work out for me.

The photo below is an example of a cross brace that RCP Phx mentioned. These are a good thing to have if you plan to offroad. You could mod the IRO track bar mount to work with this. The IRO mount looks to have a very similar geometry to the Stinky Fab mount.

I'm a little puzzled by RCP Phx's comment on the track bar needing to move in all three dimensions. It definitely does need to move in all three dimensions, but not much fore-aft movement is required. A urethane bushing at the mount will will allow the bar to swing fore-aft without binding.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0297/8650/5352/products/TBB4_1024x1024.jpg?v=1592069557
 
It's not the best pic but here is my RE set-up. You can't see it in the pic but it bolts to the opposite frame-rail besides the trackbar bracket.
P1080673_zps5qlbcerl.jpg
 
The photo below is an example of a cross brace that RCP Phx mentioned. These are a good thing to have if you plan to offroad. You could mod the IRO track bar mount to work with this. The IRO mount looks to have a very similar geometry to the Stinky Fab mount.

I'm a little puzzled by RCP Phx's comment on the track bar needing to move in all three dimensions. It definitely does need to move in all three dimensions, but not much fore-aft movement is required. A urethane bushing at the mount will will allow the bar to swing fore-aft without binding.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0297/8650/5352/products/TBB4_1024x1024.jpg?v=1592069557

There is also twisting!
 
A urethane bushing at the mount will will allow the bar to swing fore-aft without binding.


That depends on the durometer of the bushing! I could pour you some 70's but they would wear out in 6 months or I could pour you some 180's that would rip the mount off!

IRO does have a flex joint that can be added. Would that solve my potential issue besides the brace? I don't offroad hard at all but want to trust my gear of course so I'm ok with upgrading if needed. I just don't want to make it more complicated that it needs to be if that an be avoided.
https://www.ironrockoffroad.com/product/track-bar-flex-joint.html

Yes they do, but that's just more money and you don't get the benefit of the brace.
 
I'd try it as-is. But the brace is a good idea. A steering box brace is also a good idea. Both reduce the chance of frame cracking around the steering box.
 
Yes they do, but that's just more money and you don't get the benefit of the brace.

Sorry I thought the fact that it didn't have a flex joint was the big downside to that IRO setup. I'm sure I can get a brace that would work with that IRO bracket if that's the bigger issue with it.
 
Install the IRO track bar, and see if it works for you. Some people like to make things more complicated than necessary.
 
Back
Top