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Need opinions on a 6.5" lift

Howdy, folks.

After tooling around with the 3" lift and 31s for a few years, I'd like to finally take my XJ up a notch or two and step up to 6.5" and 33s. I've been looking at products for a long time and I've come up with what I think will be a good combination of parts. Still, I respect the opinions of the wise members of this forum and know that I can get some good input from them before I start ordering parts. So, without further adeu:

For the front:
-TNT Customs y-link
-Rusty's 6.5" coils
-JCR 1-ton over-the-knuckle steering
(already have the following:)
-BDS adjustable track bar
-JKS Quicker disconnects
-Rusty's 8" shocks

For the rear:
-Rusty's 6.5" leaf packs
-Billet steel 6 degree shims
-Rusty's 6" shocks

Other:
AA SYE and Tom Woods DS


I know Rusty's has gained a bad rap on some of their products, but I have their 3" kit on right now and I've been very happy with it thus far. The spring rates are about perfect and the shocks have held up very well.

The only other things I'm worried about are-
Will I need a drop pitman arm?
What type of steering box brace works best?
What's the best bang-for-your-buck on extended brake lines?

The Jeep is used primarily for offroad, but I like to take trips in it to far away wheling spots and that will probably include the occasional cross-country haul. I don't wheel crazy and I like to take it pretty easy on my Jeep as it has a certain sentimental value to it (but I'm not too worried about the dented rockers or scratched paint).

Vehicle info:
1995 Cherokee Country
4.0/AW4/231
D30/C8.25
 
IIRC an XJ with over 6" of lift needs a drop pitman arm. It looks like you have a good plan here. Definately going to need that SYE. Have you considered the HnT from RE? Pretty cheap and works well.

As for brake lines, I am running early 90's CHevy 1500 PU soft lines up front, I have plenty of length and for $15 a brake line, you cant beat it. Of course I only have 4.5" lift.

Good luck. Have Fun.

Danny
 
IIRC an XJ with over 6" of lift needs a drop pitman arm. It looks like you have a good plan here. Definately going to need that SYE. Have you considered the HnT from RE? Pretty cheap and works well.

As for brake lines, I am running early 90's CHevy 1500 PU soft lines up front, I have plenty of length and for $15 a brake line, you cant beat it. Of course I only have 4.5" lift.

Good luck. Have Fun.

Danny

Good advice on the Chevy brake lines. I'll have to check it out.

I've looked at the hack 'n' tap from RE, and yes, for the post-'96 kit it is cheap, but for the pre-'96 kit it's not that much less than the heavy duty AA SYE kit. What is the difference from the pre/post '96 231 t-case that requires there be 2 separate kits?
 
On the pre-96 it needs a seal to cover the bearings. 96 and newer the bearings are already sealed. That is an expensive little seal. Talk to FullSizeXJGear. For the pre-96 kit it is only like 150. But yeah, still not much less than a normal SYE
 
for the rear, i wouldnt do a 6.5 spring, because it would be highly arched. i would do a 4.5" spring, extended shackle and shackle relocation box. the shackle relocation box will relocate the shackle for a better angle and also give some lift.

you may be able to away with using the spring pack you have with what i mentioned above along with UBE(u-bolt eliminator kit).

a higly arched spring on stock shackle will not flex or ride as well as a less arched spring with a longer shackle and better shackle angle.
 
I'd do a 4.5" spring if I could find a 2" shackle, but so far the longest I've found is a 1.5". As far as the u-bolt eliminators go, they seem excessive for my style of wheeling... not to mention (as I hang my head in shame) the fact that I'm not too confident in my welding abilities. I grew up on a farm and therefore learned how to weld like a farmer- it's ugly and most of the time it holds.

Any suggestions on a 2" shackle?
 
I'd do a 4.5" spring if I could find a 2" shackle, but so far the longest I've found is a 1.5". As far as the u-bolt eliminators go, they seem excessive for my style of wheeling... not to mention (as I hang my head in shame) the fact that I'm not too confident in my welding abilities. I grew up on a farm and therefore learned how to weld like a farmer- it's ugly and most of the time it holds.

Any suggestions on a 2" shackle?

i know its more money, but i would do a 1.5" shackle with the 4.5" spring and to gain more height and better shackle angle, i would get shackle relocation boxes.
 
i know its more money, but i would do a 1.5" shackle with the 4.5" spring and to gain more height and better shackle angle, i would get shackle relocation boxes.

It is something I've looked into, but for right now I'm not sure I want to go that advanced... It'll require more thought...

On the subject of the steering box bace- what is the opinion of the rugged ridge unit? I've never really heard of the company before, but it looks decent and I've found them for about $60. Is there a better one out there? Is there a reason I should avoid this one?
 
Drop those leafs.

Get the RE 5.5" HD's with a 1.5" TNT boomarang shackle.

Those rusty's leafs won't flex without at least a 2" shackle, which would be 8" of lift..

Also, no drop pitman arm needed due to any lift height. You drop to match your draglink and trackbar angles, but if you're going over the knuckle with the steering, you can adjust the trackbar at the axle end.
 
It is something I've looked into, but for right now I'm not sure I want to go that advanced... It'll require more thought...

On the subject of the steering box bace- what is the opinion of the rugged ridge unit? I've never really heard of the company before, but it looks decent and I've found them for about $60. Is there a better one out there? Is there a reason I should avoid this one?


URL to the rugged ridge brace? They are part of omix-ada, and are OEM quality (not strong) parts, made by the cheapest bidder, but it may be ok.

You'll want to brace the frame at the steering box too, look at a c-rok brace.

http://www.c-rok.com/sb.html
 
Drop those leafs.

Get the RE 5.5" HD's with a 1.5" TNT boomarang shackle.

Those rusty's leafs won't flex without at least a 2" shackle, which would be 8" of lift..

Also, no drop pitman arm needed due to any lift height. You drop to match your draglink and trackbar angles, but if you're going over the knuckle with the steering, you can adjust the trackbar at the axle end.

That's good to know about the pitman arm with the high-steer. Since making this post I've leaned toward the RC 2" shackles with the Rusty's 4.5" spring packs. Seems to me like that combination should ride/flex alright.
URL to the rugged ridge brace? They are part of omix-ada, and are OEM quality (not strong) parts, made by the cheapest bidder, but it may be ok.

You'll want to brace the frame at the steering box too, look at a c-rok brace.

http://www.c-rok.com/sb.html

Here it is with the Omix-Ada name on it. M.O.R.E. sells a very similar one.
http://www.tellico4x4.com/product_info.php/cPath/459_432/products_id/25833

That C-rok brace looks pretty stout, I'm strongly considdering it now! :)
 
IMO you'll be happier with the RE/TNT combo than the Rusty's combo, and the cost is about the same - but whatever makes you happy. ;)

That RR brace is the same one Currie sells too. It works fine, but I wouldnt run it unless you also run a trackbar mount brace and a fairly rigid front bumper. You want to fix box movement, and not create a new pivot point - if that is the only brace you have up front, its going to get all of the stress from the body flex, and transfer it to your steering box bolts.

As far as the c-rok plate goes, it should be the first thing on your list.
 
IMO you'll be happier with the RE/TNT combo than the Rusty's combo, and the cost is about the same - but whatever makes you happy. ;)

That RR brace is the same one Currie sells too. It works fine, but I wouldnt run it unless you also run a trackbar mount brace and a fairly rigid front bumper. You want to fix box movement, and not create a new pivot point - if that is the only brace you have up front, its going to get all of the stress from the body flex, and transfer it to your steering box bolts.

As far as the c-rok plate goes, it should be the first thing on your list.

That's some damn good info... never thought of it that way.

I'm going to be taking the logical route with the buildup. I'll probably start with the steering box brace, as I'm already running 31s and should have one already, then move on to the steering linkage. I'll be throwing in some JCR sliders, too. I'll probably buy the TNT y-link setup as the first part of the lift, that way I can just install the belly pan for added protection 'till I round up the rest of the parts. Of course I'm eventually going to have to spring for 4.56 gears and lockers... but all in due time. This ain't gonna happen over night!

At this exact moment I'm spending some money on getting the Jeep roadworthy again, as it has been sitting for 3.5 years. Going from a broke college student to a broke Airman living 1400 miles away hasn't really left me much time or money for this hobby.
 
If you're going to gear, bite the bullet and do 4.88's. In the long run, you'll thank yourself.

4.88 and 33's is better all around than you would think, the 4.0 really doesnt mind spinning 3,000 rpm's on the highway, and it will probably get better mpg than 4.56 would.
 
If you're going to gear, bite the bullet and do 4.88's. In the long run, you'll thank yourself.

4.88 and 33's is better all around than you would think, the 4.0 really doesnt mind spinning 3,000 rpm's on the highway, and it will probably get better mpg than 4.56 would.

This is true. I remeber back when my XJ was totally stock, it would get about 18-20 MPG going 55-60 all day, but it would get 21-24 if I was going 70-75... I thought it was strange, but no complaints! Also, 4.88s would give me a little extra kick down low and would make it happier if I ever decided to build a camp trailer to tow along to remote locations...

Hmmm...

I shall sleep on it. It's almost bed time for me anyway...

Thanks a ton and feel free to chime in with more info any time!
 
More info?

When you go over the knuckle on the JCR steering, the BDS trackbar won't work anymore.

Pony up a couple hundred more bucks and get the TNT truss with the Y-Link. Have them add the over the axle trackbar mount (you'll need it) and then build a custom trackbar.

Other than that, you aren't on a bad course. Contact your chapter president, he should have a $50 tom woods gift certificate for you too.
 
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