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Help Diagnosing Window Problem

jjjjeremy

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Hollister, CA
First things first, I re-soldered the window lockout button, and that successfully fixed the two other windows.

Now, my drivers rear window won't roll down. I tried a new motor, but when I took the door apart and tested the new and old motors I noticed that UP works on the rear switch for both the new and old motors, but DOWN does not. Neither UP nor DOWN work on the driver's switches.

Any ideas?


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Since the XJ Cherokee was made for so many years and underwent so many running production upgrades and changes, any even mildly technical question must include your Jeeps info. Answers to even simple question will vary depending on the Jeep info. At the minimum provide the year, engine size, and transmission info. As necessary also include more complete info about the transfer case type, axle type, any factory options, and any specifics about lift kit brand/parts or other modifications from stock.

Regarding your questions, list which windows did or did not work before repairs ( specifically up or down ) from; 1) the drivers door Master Switch assembly and, 2) from the switch at the individual windows. Now after attempted repairs, what are the functions of each window again from the Master Switch, and from the individual switches ?
 
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I would bet ther is a broken wire in the driver door hinge point -- probably in the rubber boot connecting the door to the truck behind the kick panel
 
If I'm remembering right (did this three weeks ago on my son's 97 then my 98), if you have a lockout to resolder, then you are 97-01. My limited experience is that for this vintage you gotta check/fix the wires in the rubber boot between door and body before you mess with anything else. There is a youtube video on the lockout resolder and the same guy has one on fixing the wires. In my son's 97 about half the wires were broke in the boot. They were heavy gauge wires and a pain to twist and solder. Soldering iron wasn't enough and had to use the old Weller 100W soldering gun.



In my 98, I only had a little speaker wire to fix (manual windows and locks) and the soldering iron worked fine. Darn the stereo sounds so much better now.
 
I ran into a similar problem last weekend. By "fixing" some cracked solder connections, I ended up screwing up three out of the four windows. Driver side front wouldn't budge either direction and both passenger side windows would go up but not down (not acceptable when you rely on the old "4x55 A/C"). For $25 bucks on Amazon I had a new Power Window control unit in less than 48 hours and the wind was blowing through what's left of my hair 10 minutes later.
 
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