Renix help.

old_man said:

You stated the voltage never varies, are you sure when you put the TPS on that the tang is on the correct side. Once a long time ago, I replaced the TPS and put it all together and I had problems. I can't remember exactly what they were. The lever on the TPS needs to be preloaded when it is installed. I got the lever on the side so as the throttle was opened, it never rotated the TPS.

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I thought of that, had that problem once too, but as I recall it was obvious right away as there was no changing signal to the ECU as you gave it gas. It might also have a low idle??? Wish I could remember what the differences were, but it must have been 10 years ago now. Worth asking the question though.

Ecomike said:

What is the ohms reading power off from the ground wire in the harness side of the square TPS side to the negative post of the battery?

Have you read the RenX files thread yet?

There is also a critical ground at the transmission somewhere for the electric shift solenoids

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yes read and i ll post up my current Ohms brb

.01 ohms
last weekend i also found a huge problem on my battery ground cable. so will buy a new one, and address the rear ground stud and clean it.

more random questions here.
has anyone cut and removed the harness from the bulkhead connector out, and tacked it to a piece of plywood and taken on the task of re building it? if so, besides the ground situation, is there anything that is bad? are the wire gages correct? can any be changed/improved? are the plugs and connectors adequate?

ok so here i am.
bulkhead connector GONE
all grounds cleaned and fixed , still trying that rear head one grrr
all vac lines replaced with new from napa.
my harness had 4 crappy ground splices. got rid of all of them.
all wiring joints soldered .
new ground from TPS to battery neg post. .2 to .1 Ohms on it.
and new pos and neg cables installed. they were both crapped out, not sure if they were causing any problems for me, but they needed to be replaced.
need to check manifold nuts for looseness.
still have high idle, but now i know all the other things will be at a level i can trust. less question marks to deal with. taking a break, i ll be back later and post up.

thanks for listening to my story here guys

Sounds like it is time to figure out why the TPS output voltage was not changing when you tried to calibrate it now. That is a definite issue!!!! Also is the output voltage jumpy or smooth on an analog meter as you open the throttle? It can be tested with power on, engine off or engine running. Did the current TPS ever get wet with water? I hear they are ruined and never recover from water contact.

Not the earlier post from old man "You stated the voltage never varies, are you sure when you put the TPS on that the tang is on the correct side. Once a long time ago, I replaced the TPS and put it all together and I had problems. I can't remember exactly what they were. The lever on the TPS needs to be preloaded when it is installed. I got the lever on the side so as the throttle was opened, it never rotated the TPS."

LOL i put mine on the wrong side on my MJ i had . but no this one is right. no unusual water exposure.
my old voltage would stay at 9.6 no matter what.
i have not checked it yet, sunday i think i ll try and adjust my TPS or swap my other one(the original one) back in and see what i get.
my manifold nuts were all tight.
my rear ground on the head, well i got it off and moved to the front stud. from there to neg post is .1 to .2 Ohms. i am convinced the ground there is good, but i ll make a better one not on the rad support. but for now it will have to do.

oh and i dont have an analog meter. so i cant check for the wear in the TPS at the moment.

ok so i switched back to teh original TPS.
noticed some wire damage in my spare, not serious in other applications but i suspect Renix doesnt like things not perfect lmao.
then i set it as before, and no change.
so i pulled the IAC and looked in the hole, and as best i can figure, all was well. the hole is clean. so i determined the plunger was coming up short. so i wrestled it our a little and put it back in. go in the house and get cleaned up and it started up with a rock steady normal idle.
whew! not perfect yet, but this i can drive to and from work every day. feels like less than full fuel at highway speeds but i can make this work short term. next week new IAC and then a new TPS. still unsure if this is an IAC problem, IAC pigtail problem or what. glad i have all the functions now.

Mike and Cruiser, i thank you both. your help was invaluable!

well i have it fixed.

i ll try and be brief.
oem engine harness repaired 2x with limited success.
got salvage engine harness and repaired 3 spots for rodent damage.
so it turns our my cat was hosed. early in i cut the cat inlet and looked in and saw good honeycomb. the honeycomb on the backside was broken up and clogging the exhaust and was the cause of the problem. 2 years and 500 dollars and it is fixed. thanks to Lakewood Auto Electric and their going over it.

lesson learned is things can get in your head and you get too many "problems" and lose track of the likely problem.
for everyone who contributed,thanks.arty:

That's nothing, I spent 12 years thinking I might need a new engine, and it was just an Uncle Bob-bent throttle rod that was keeping the Throttle body butterfly from opening 100% at WOT.

Took a Snap On MT-2500 and weeks of debugging a different problem to stumble into it.

on the upside, all my repairs were dead right on and connect. and some were likely un needed, but at the age an d mileage, probably ok to do anyways. jeep is running well, just working my way through death wobbles now.changed out steering box and added iron rock 's brace and spacer. the brace is honest to God 1/4 in thick steel. nest up is a new tie rod and maybe a drag link. if stil wobbles then going to lower control arms and then new front tires. but one step at a time till i can get to 40 mph and no wobbles

dead right on and correct. darn fingers!