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Headlight switch connector

Tardis XJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Oregon
Does anyone know the oem # for the HLS18/DS220 headlight switch connector/plug/pigtail (not the switch itself)? Or, where such a new connector can be purchased? Help please.
 
What year are you?

On our 91 the plug melted so I bought a 92-3 to 96 XJ plug with pigtail, the switch is different but if you look at it it’s 90% the same, I cut off the extra part of the plug that didn’t match the original and wired it up. Been probably 6 years since the fix. Also did the aftermarket headlight harness up keep it from melting again.

I’ll have to search for the part # I used,

there not going to a Mopar kit for it. The aftermarket part is sold under a couple different company names and part # but it’s probably the same manufacturer in China.


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I believe wells 583 /AirTex 1p1190 is the same part I used but a different company standard motor products hp4195.

It’s for 1992 XJ up, a very common plug and while it is different from the 1984 to 1991 plug just cut the plastic where it changes from the 1984 headlight switch design. Sounds worse than it is, all Chrysler did in 1992 was redesign the switch adding a few wires , you can easily see cluster of wires add to the original design. Trim to match the original and it’s the same plug.


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Thanks for the reply. I read your prior threads and found the needed #s, thanks again. I did order a upgrade harness. Watched the video where you cut off the 2 extra terminals, and I can do that. Great to hear your fix still works aft 6 year's. Tardis out 4 now.
 
Good call on the relay kit. If the headlight switch isn't totally melted and will power the relay, you might not even need to replace it. You'll appreciate getting the extra volt or two to the headlights. Next upgrade could be a set of AutoPal e-code headlight housings with your choice of H4 bulbs.
 
I would recommend the headlight relay kit, I got the Chinese made Putco 230004HW and delta headlight housing with H4 bulbs. Huge improvement.

Kind of tempted by led headlights.


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I would recommend the headlight relay kit, I got the Chinese made Putco 230004HW and delta headlight housing with H4 bulbs. Huge improvement.

Kind of tempted by led headlights.


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If you're looking at housings on eBay, make sure it says the face is glass and not plastic. The cheap plastic ones are junk.
 
If you're looking at housings on eBay, make sure it says the face is glass and not plastic. The cheap plastic ones are junk.

Agree. And Autopals are junk too and have a crappy beam pattern. The Hella E-code housings are the best; nice sharp cutoff and have great beam focus where it needs to be.
 
Agree. And Autopals are junk too and have a crappy beam pattern. The Hella E-code housings are the best; nice sharp cutoff and have great beam focus where it needs to be.

I dunno, plenty of folks (myself included) think they're a nice upgrade from sealed beams. The CIBIE aficionados swear everything else is garbage. Not looking to start a whole flamewar on the topic though.
 
I dunno, plenty of folks (myself included) think they're a nice upgrade from sealed beams. The CIBIE aficionados swear everything else is garbage. Not looking to start a whole flamewar on the topic though.

I've had great experience with Autopal.
I think there is another version of them that's not so good though. Kind of a Ricky Racer design.

an FYI, years ago there was a guy on a forum with an XJ and he had a lumen meter.
He compared the output of his regular old headlamp bulbs before and after the harness upgrade.
35% improvement.....
 
I've had great experience with Autopal.
I think there is another version of them that's not so good though. Kind of a Ricky Racer design.

an FYI, years ago there was a guy on a forum with an XJ and he had a lumen meter.
He compared the output of his regular old headlamp bulbs before and after the harness upgrade.
35% improvement.....

I recall there was a non e-code version that had a poor pattern.

I picked up 1.3 volts at the headlights when I did the relay upgrade, which is about right for 10-feet of the rather undersized 18-gauge wire listed in the wiring diagram. Ohms law puts that around a 20% improvement in power. Picked up 3 volts when I did the motorcycle - now that was a very noticeable improvement!
 
I recall there was a non e-code version that had a poor pattern.

I picked up 1.3 volts at the headlights when I did the relay upgrade, which is about right for 10-feet of the rather undersized 18-gauge wire listed in the wiring diagram. Ohms law puts that around a 20% improvement in power. Picked up 3 volts when I did the motorcycle - now that was a very noticeable improvement!

I think you're right on the non e-code housings. I couldn't remember for sure.

A super worthwhile improvement the harness is. Even on it's own.
 
I've been running a set of the AutoPals for something like 10 years now (with no harness). Haven't even had to swap the bulbs (though the XJ hasn't been a daily driver in something like 16 years.

Even if they aren't as good optically as the Hella/Cibie lights, the AutoPals are a vast improvement over any normal sealed-beam light, and are still well-worth the money.
 
I bought a pair of AutoPals several years ago. They are in a storage bin. Although they are brighter, the beam patter was much more narrow. Didn't light up the side of the road. I just couldn't tolerate the lack of width. I even tried to adjust the aim but created a hole in the middle while blinding oncoming traffic!
 
Thanks to all for your answers. I installed the harness upgrade to my Hella H4 conversion headlights, and wow what a difference. And, as suggested, I didn't need to change the headlight switch. I'm going to replace the switch though and get one of the connectors recommended by the answers. Great responses--thanks again.
 
Thanks to all for your answers. I installed the harness upgrade to my Hella H4 conversion headlights, and wow what a difference. And, as suggested, I didn't need to change the headlight switch. I'm going to replace the switch though and get one of the connectors recommended by the answers. Great responses--thanks again.

Likely don't need to replace the switch now since it doesn't carry such a large burden.
 
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