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Mopar Performance Springs with Triple Groove Valves

Jaguarjx2

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Joliet, Il
As the title states, I am trying to find information on using the Mopar performance springs (5249464) with the later triple groove valves.

A little background, I have a 2000 Cherokee with a rebuilt 4.0, .030 over with a Comp Cam 68-232-4, 630 head with some mild port work running stock valves and magnum springs. I have been chasing a valve train noise for some time and after looking at the spring specs, I am realizing that there a good chance that the lift with this cam is causing coil bind.

All this had lead me to searching for better spring options. After a lot of searching the easiest answer that doesn't require machining is the MP springs. They state that you are supposed to use the recommended retainers (P4452032) and keepers with these springs. Which are a single groove 8*.

The question I a trying to find an answer to is, is there a way to use these retainers without swapping to earlier valves?

I have read in some threads people referencing that the three groove keepers are 8*. And some stating the the hemi 5.7 and 6.1 keepers are three groove 8*, but have been unable to confirm this anywhere. So I was hoping someone could help me
 
Not to likely, that's a very mild cam(it's what I'm running in my stroker). If anything look into "beehive" springs.
P1080515_zpsy6cfykns.jpg
 
Whats not likely? I've spent the last week looking for spring options that don't require machining the spring seat. The question that I have though, is are the triple groove keeps 8*?
 
The mopar performance springs though have a really heavy spring rate and are super expensive. They used to be considered the way, but aren't really any more.
 
You never know how many times these heads have been re-decked, or how much was machined off them. This adds "+" to things.
Adjustable roller rockers are great to help over come this a bit.
Some V8 heads I did up years ago had been decked so much I had to get taller pedestals under them. 2mm? As the push rods and lifters stay the same length.
Over springing (too much tention) will only wear down your cam lobes faster, unless your red lining it a lot and your hearing popping from valve bounce..... I wouldn't do it.
There may well be push rods out there a fraction shorter to balance things out.
Hydraulic lifters change when running, some motors are best to adjust when running.
 
Push rods are available in .050 increments from way shorter than we would need to way longer. I have used push rods from 9.500 to 9.750 on 4.0's, depending on the head and block, what lifters are being used, what valve package, what rockers, etc etc.
 
The mopar performance springs though have a really heavy spring rate and are super expensive. They used to be considered the way, but aren't really any more.

I agree they are heavy and super expensive. I just haven't found a good alternative without major modifications. Ideally I would like to swap the springs without pulling the head back off so I'd rather not machine down the spring seats.
 
Push rods are available in .050 increments from way shorter than we would need to way longer. I have used push rods from 9.500 to 9.750 on 4.0's, depending on the head and block, what lifters are being used, what valve package, what rockers, etc etc.

Currently running OE valves, Comp Cam Lifters (High Energy I think), stock push rods, stock rockers for now. I have shimmed the rockers to get the correct lifter preload.
 
Thanks for the info cal, out of curiosity where did you find that info. I've spent hours searching and never came across that.

here on naxja about 12 years ago. googled by that part # and it didn't come up but i have it in a note.

I'd order from amazon so if they arent' right you can send them back. ;)
 
I agree they are heavy and super expensive. I just haven't found a good alternative without major modifications. Ideally I would like to swap the springs without pulling the head back off so I'd rather not machine down the spring seats.

If you're not pulling the head then why bother with the change? i have to assume whats in there now is working fine?
 
If you're not pulling the head then why bother with the change? i have to assume whats in there now is working fine?

Well While trying to figure out this valvetrain noise, I realized the solid height for the SBI springs I installed are about 5 thousandths below the lift for the exhaust lobe. The head is a remaned, so install height might be higher than the spec but either way its too close. So I figured I should correct that first and see if it has any affect.

Thanks again for that part number
 
does it kind of sound like a 12v cummins at idle?

what lifters are you running?
 
You aren't the only one chasing this noise.

The springs aren't going to fix it. :)
 
Would love to hear a sound-byte from either one of them, when I did my stroker I swore for a 1-1/2 yrs it was the lifters, turns out it was my cam sensor!
 
You aren't the only one chasing this noise.

The springs aren't going to fix it. :)

Yeah, I've seen a bunch of threads about similar noise issues. Although a lot of them are high mileage engines and may just be skirt slap. I am fairly confident the valve springs are not causing the noise, but it is an issue I stumbled across while ruling things out.

The first thing I had check was the lifter preload. I found that all of them were around .090. I added shims to get them all to about .030. Afterwards I had contacted comp cams to see what the spec was for the actual lifters, they stated .030 +/- .010. He asked what issue I was having and what my setup was. After telling him he stated that the springs were the issue as the magnum springs will still have issues with coil bind. Doubting him, I looked up the specs from SBI and found the solid spec was .006 shy of the exhaust lift. So figure i should fix this issue while chasing down this noise.

sorry for the long reply
 
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