Replacing Rear Brakes

Rear Brakes have been squeaking here lately, sprayed them down with brake cleaner, and it helped a little but its getting worse as i drive, so was wondering how hard it is to replace em and what all needs to be done. thanks ( its an 88 xj by the way)

Rear Shoes are not that difficult, the toughest part is getting the springs off. Leave one side together as you work on the other, that way you have a model to go and look at as you put it back together and now where the parts go if you forget.

a brake spring tool, a lock washer tool, and an adjusting spoon are your best friends.

XgeekstarX said:

a brake spring tool, a lock washer tool, and an adjusting spoon are your best friends.

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X2! worth the blood in busted knuckles! Better than a screwdriver and real short money!

X3 Pliers and screw drivers are no fun! Especially when the PO adjusted the E-Brake cable waaay out.

Yea, I'm going to have to break down and get some drum brake tools. I had a fat lip last time, because my pliers slipped off the spring while trying to put it on, and I was pulling with so much force it flew back and I hit myself in the mouth with the pliers.

Just did mine last week.

Here's my observations:

#1) Brake dust sucks!

#2) Use locking pliers

#3) Use plenty of grease on the mounting surfaces, contact surfaces, self-adjusting screw, self-adjusting screw end cap, etc.

#4) Don't have your parking brake on when you try to put the drum back on...(I did that one - duh!).
Note: You might have to release some line on the parking brake cable. The adjustment screw/assembly is located near the t-case. (where the two parking brake cables come together)

#5) Remember to activate the adjusting screws. After everyting is back together, drive forward / stop, drive in reverse / stop. (Make sure you come to a complete stop because it will not activate in a rolling stop.) Repeat this about 20 times.



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Use new parts, springs, clips, etc, they come in a pack at the better parts stores, new adjusters too otherwise take the old ones off, disassemble, brass wire brush them and relube with copper anti-seize then reassemble.

Brake Hardware kits is all the springs for both sides, costs ~$11
Self-Adjuster Kit is all the star wheel, cable and lever for ONE SIDE Only ~$13
Wheel Cylinder Rebuild Kit is ~$4

My rear wheel cylinder was leaking, but all the seals looked fine. I suspect the cylinder got coated in gunk, because it took forever to hone away all the gunk on the cylinder, but it was the gunk that caused the seals to leak.

I flush out all the old brake fluid and replace with new by bleeding the brakes once a year. I've never had a leaking wheel cylinder in vehicles I've owned for a dozen years. Leave the brake fluid in there for 10 years and even if the degraded performance isn't enough to hurt you, the dirty fluid will gunk up the system and you'll get leaks in rear wheel cylinders or sticking calipers up front.

Its only old vehicles I've bought or help friends and families with, that have leaking wheel cylinders or sticking calipers. They never change the brake fluid.

Changing brake fluid once a year, or even every couple of years, will do wonders to increase the life and reliability of your brakes.

Rick Anderson said:

...Changing brake fluid once a year, or even every couple of years, will do wonders to increase the life and reliability of your brakes.

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TIME TO CHANGE THE BRAKE FLUID!!!





that picture was too freaky to leave alone


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RTicUL8 said:

#2) Use locking pliers

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DOH! I have locking pliers (vice grips), I have used locking pliers before to pull drum brake springs, so why did I forget to use them this time and used regular pliers??? I guess I like smacking myself in the mouth with a set of pliers?

Rick Anderson said:

DOH! I have locking pliers (vice grips), I have used locking pliers before to pull drum brake springs, so why did I forget to use them this time and used regular pliers??? I guess I like smacking myself in the mouth with a set of pliers?

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Or you can use a pair of Channel locks with non coated handles and use the handle end as a spring replacement tool so when the spring pops off you seriously pound your lip/jaw with the business end of the Channel locks! :shiver: