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Head Gasket

T

the_mechanic

NAXJA Forum User
NAXJA Member
Location
Everett, WA
Well I got the rebuilt rear end in my rig...just in time for the head gasket to let go a week later. I am doing a valve job along with the gasket, any other 'while I'm at it' suggestions?
 
Also, any good sources for a new head to compare to the cost of machine work? I did a search but came up empty. This is on a '95 4.0
 
I did mine this summer( cracked 0331 head) I just bought all the gaskets I need, head bolts, spark plugs, thermostat/ thermo gasket. Make sure to get the sealer need for the front head bolt where it goes through the water galley. I did an oil change after everything was back together just in case any little pieces of gasket fell in.
 
Last edited:
Don't both with J&C. Too many stories about those folks. Maybe if you were local they'd give you a good one...
 
Make sure you torque the head bolts in the exact order and to the exact spec the factory asks for. Same applies for rocker arms. Dont forget the lubricant for the rods and the sealant on the head bolt to the right of the thermostat. Change the valve cover gasket as well as the intake gasket while you are doing this
 
It would be a good time to check the header. They like to crack around the collector. You can get factory-style ones with flex-joints added in for $160 or even less. Dorman makes one that's OSTENSIBLY made of stainless steel and carries a lifetime warranty. This might be another good option too- https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atp-101212/overview/year/1995/make/jeep/model/cherokee
I'd also check your ports and give them a good cleaning, if necessary. Last time I pulled my intake manifold/header, my ports were dirtier than a coal mine. When re-assembling everything, also make sure that your front O2 sensor harness goes between the intake manifold and the power steering pump. Trust me, failure to route it this way WILL cause it to melt on the exhaust header...
 
Well I just got the DOA call, crack between the valves on cylinder 1, looks like it's time for a new head.
 
JeepNoob said:
It would be a good time to check the header. They like to crack around the collector. . . . This might be another good option too- https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atp-101212/overview/year/1995/make/jeep/model/cherokee
Click to expand...

I just installed that ATP/Grayworks header. Last time I used the cheap SpeedDaddy. The ATP is built much better. For the same price as the Dorman, you get a 3-2-1 style and stainless. It is harder to get the bottom bolts in with any 3-2-1, but it isn't a big deal.

Paul
 
If the head is off, I'd toss in some new lifters. Any 4.0 I've had has lifter ticking after ~120k. They're super easy to do with a magnet.

On the head gasket, make sure ti doesn't call out a roughness spec. If you get an MLS gasket, it most likely will and you'll want to try and match it.

Torque in steps, and I typically do a hot retorque. ARP head studs are super cheap for 4.0L's too.
 
Just get felpro gasket kit. The 4.0 doesn't need an MLS and you can't get the correct surface unless you go to a machine shop. Unless you are using forced induction or nitrous there is no point in studs. The factory bolts are fine if they are not damaged at all. Remember the 4.0 is a low compression low rpm engine with not a whole lot of HP. If you change lifters you MUST break in the cam again and use the proper cam lube. I wouldn't bother though and you can wipe out a cam doing it. If you lifters are noisy just run some ATF through right before the next oil change. Or run Mobil 1 5w30 synthetic, that seems to help on some cars.
 
montanaman said:
What's an MLS?
Click to expand...

I found this on the Fel-Pro website

http://www.jegs.com/p/Fel-Pro/Fel-Pro-PermaTorque-Multi-Layer-Steel-Head-Gaskets/758649/10002/-1

Why use a Fel-Pro Multi-Layer Steel Cylinder Head Gasket? Because more power per cylinder, higher operating temperatures, and thinner head and block castings demand a modified gasket. MLS Gaskets are stronger, more forgiving, and capable of sealing despite movement between the head and block. Such motion results from: lighter, thinner aluminum head castings that are more susceptible to thermal expansion; computer controls that can dramatically increase engine output; reduced clamping force that prevents stress points and cylinder bore distortion.
 
Hey I'm new but I just did this same thing 2 weeks ago and used the felpro gasket (blue one) can't remember the part# but I have no issues with it and I also put new lifters cause they are super cheap for this engine($4 a piece on rock auto). My 2cents
 
Remember to mark push rods and rockers so they go back into the same position they were removed. This is doubly so if you remove the lifters to clean them out.
 
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