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New guy build-The Family Truckster

SByota

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Ventura, CA
My name is Brad and I'm new to NAXJA and the XJ world. I've have several off road trucks in the past, Toyota pre-runner with 3 link, full cage, custom a arms, full cage etc. 74 Blazer, and a few other Toyota trucks.

Those toys have been gone for years now. I now have a young son and needed something that can fit 4 people and go on adventures.

I picked up this 97 XJ with 124k miles for a bargain. Salvage title due to the dented door/fender/rocker. It has the typical 4.0/AW4/231 combo with the 8.25 rear end.

The build plan is a do it all adventure rig with some Jeepspeed go fast thrown in.

Front suspension:

I'm building a 4 link with panhard bar with Ruffstuff parts. Keeping the D30 but adding WJ brakes/steering etc. 5.5 Deaver springs, Bilstien 7100 shocks and prothane coil inserts.


Rear suspension

Deaver G9 springs with Bilstien 7100 through the floor.

Other details.
Full Ruffstuff frame reinforcement, T&J interior cage, home built bumpers and sliders. 35" tires.

I'm looking for input on gearing and front locker recommendations.

4:56 vs 4:88 gears?

Planning a Aussie locker for the rear, but can decided on the front.

Leave it open to preserve the D30?
Throw in a lunch box locker and be gentle with the go pedal? LSD worth it?

Pictures make any thread better right?











 
For go fast i bet most are going to say rear locker first. For rock crawling imo front locker first.

Other than uturns or pulling into a parking spot the front auto lockers are invisible on the street. They will just ratchet a nit when turning tight. Aussie is fine. Spartan is good as well and comes with a hardened crossshaft as well.
 
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"Now, I owe it to myself to tell you that if you're taking the whole tribe cross-country, the Wagon Queen Family Truckster... You think you hate it now, wait 'til you drive it."
 
With the kind of coin you're already dropping into it and the intent to drive it with the family, I'd personally go with select-able lockers and 4.88's with those 35" tires.
 
With the kind of coin you're already dropping into it and the intent to drive it with the family, I'd personally go with select-able lockers and 4.88's with those 35" tires.

That's the problem, the huge amount of money already invested. I really want to get this done and to a point where I can have fun with it. I may just leave it open, then build a better axle on the bench.

I think 4:88's are the answer though. Thanks for all the input.

I'll post pictures as I get more work done.
 
I haven't had a need for lockers yet, despite what my club and the internet keeps saying, I seem to still have fun. Sometimes it just takes a little more finesse.
 
I haven't had a need for lockers yet, despite what my club and the internet keeps saying, I seem to still have fun. Sometimes it just takes a little more finesse.

I went A LOT of awesome places in my 88' XJ w/4.5" short arm lift, 4.10s, and 33's.


To the OP however, I'd for sure recommend 4.88's and selectable lockers. I am building a similar rig that I hope to take to other parts of the country to wheel and will be running that setup.
 
Did a little SoCal road trip with my son today. We stopped by T&J Performance in Orange to pick up my cage. Great shop, lots of cool projects going on inside. Got to talk with the owner Tom about my cage build and some other Jeepspeed related questions I had.

Then we swung by Deaver to grab some G9 leafs. It's like walking back in time when you walk in. It's another cool shop.

My two year old son loved all the cool jeeps, trucks and tools he saw today. He also had to try on my new welding gear.





 
Made some progress on the truckster:

Pulled all the interior trim and carpet in preparation for the cage. Modified the front seat mounts to lover the seats 1 5/8" inches, to maximize head room. I also worked on getting the stiffners/frame plates all welded up. So much welding!!

Suspension and axles are next. I'm going with 4:88 gears and a lunchbox locker in the rear. The front will stay open for now.

Built a press brake out of some scrap 3/8" mild I had left over from a previous rifle target project. It's works great. 3/16" cold rolled in the picture.



 


Frame plating is almost done. RWK Haus supply cane through with a sweet deal on a set of 4:88 gears. I have a ton of parts just waiting to be installed. The frame work had taken WAY longer than expected.
 
Made some new shackles today. Used a bushing kit from RuffStuff and a mix of 3/16" and 1/8" cold rolled steel. I'm pretty happy with them. Also used my homemade press brake.





 
New transmission mount. 3/8" hardware and cold rolled steel. Motor mounts are next.

Anyone running urethane motor mounts with the stock cast iron block side mounts? They look pretty stout. I know that under extreme conditions the bolts will break the threaded casting on the block. Has anyone seen that type of carnage in a non racing environment?



 
Motor mounts are next.

Anyone running urethane motor mounts with the stock cast iron block side mounts? They look pretty stout. I know that under extreme conditions the bolts will break the threaded casting on the block. Has anyone seen that type of carnage in a non racing environment?

I'm a tightwad, fairly handy with the basic fabrication tools, and certainly not a speed racer. After looking at trying to build my own block side motor mounts, I decided to buy them from Dallas at SFR. (Stinky Fab Racing)

Maybe if I'd had a spare engine on a stand it would have been worthwhile, but with the interferences inside the chassis, I decided it wasn't worth making my own.

Good thing I did, as my passenger side had broken one of the bolts and the other two were loose. No apparent damage to the cast mount its self, just the fasteners.

I run the Mountain Off Road Extreme (MORE) frame side motor mounts in rubber.
 
Made some progress on the front axle today. New upper bushings and a gusset from the sheet metal mount.

Also did some trimming on the rear quarters to get these 35's to stuff.





 
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