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Battery voltage drops

mountainbiker

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Valparaiso, IN
I have a 2001 XJ and the battery voltage started dropping when I was at idle this weekend.

The RPMs drop with it as well to about 250. It sometimes even stalls out.

I have no engine mods.

I am not sure if it is the battery or the alternator. Any ideas before I start randomly replacing stuff?

Thanks guys!

Matt
 
I have a 2001 XJ and the battery voltage started dropping when I was at idle this weekend.

The RPMs drop with it as well to about 250. It sometimes even stalls out.

I have no engine mods.

I am not sure if it is the battery or the alternator. Any ideas before I start randomly replacing stuff?

There's a few possibilities:

- Serpentine belt tension / condition. If it's not adjusted to spec and/or at the end of its service life, it's possible that things may be OK at higher RPMS but not idle.

- Battery terminals, cables, and grounds. Give them all a good once-over, cleaning and replacing as necessary. The braided ground straps from the engine to firewall and chassis are particularly prone to flaking out.

- Battery condition. Don't know how old it is, but cold weather will kill a failing battery pretty quickly. Pull battery, have tested, replace if necessary.

- Alternator condition. Pull alternator, have tested, replace if necessary.

- Idle air sensor and idle air controller. If the IAS has never been cleaned or replaced, this is worth a shot. IACs are better to just replace outright IMHO, but a good throttle body cleaning can help.

- Crank position sensor. This is probably less-likely in this instance, so go through the steps above before replacing it.

Don't be surprised if this is a compound problem - it may just be a failing battery, but when they go it's possible that other components that were getting onto their last legs let go around the same time. And given that you've got decade-old components in there (assuming no prior replacements), it's not impossible that this may be the case.
 
Good advice as usual from casm....

*Cleaning all battery cables and posts until shiny is job #1.

*Having that battery LOAD TESTED is something that should be done early in the process. Any parts store will do this for you for FREE. Stalling is a VERY common symptom of a marginal battery. And yes, you can have a battery strong enough to start the engine, but marginal enough to create the stalling symptom.

*Alternator output is easy to verify with a quick and dirty test. Get a multimeter and put one lead on both of the battery terminals. At idle, the target is around 14 volts, give or take a bit. Some parts stores will also perform a charging system test for you at no charge. Check around to see if some of the big box parts stores will do this for you.
 
Agree with the others.

You could have a "The chicken or the egg?" situation here--if your idle is dropping out to near stall speed the alternator output will drop.

Idle should be 700-750 RPMs for a manual trans vehicle in neutral after 20 minutes of driving; for an auto trans vehicle that would be 700-750 RPMs after 20 minutes of driving--parking brake set, somebody's foot on the service brake pedal, and the transmission in DRIVE. Don't rely on the dash tach, use an external tach.
 
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