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need help asap

R

raelayotte

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Michigan
i have a 98 xj the 3 places told me the front is shot. so im in need of a frontend what would u all do i am limited to 1500. im also kind of low on tools i just moved from upper michigan to lower michigan and i left my tools up there. well thats a differnet story y but any help would be great

thank u all so much:gonnablow
 
your front end is shot? Could you be more specific? I.E. ring and pinion are blown, ball joints, axle shafts, bearing assemblies. Front end shot could mean a lot of things.
 
junkyard my friend. prob pick up a complet axle for 300 or so car-part.com is a litsting of junkyards listing their parts check it. basic hand tools and you could swap front ends. nothing realy hard just a bunch of nuts and bolts.

find out exactly what the shops are telling you is wrong it's kinda rare that you need a whole new front end unless it's bent or something.
 
spend the money and get some nice axle ujoints... screw the sway bar end link, rip the damn thing off, and buy yourself an HD tracbar and bracket from Rubicon Express... you'll need some snap ring pliars, a vice would make it easier, axle nut socket and elbow grease... besides various sockets and rachet... that's it.
 
u have a point if u all could tell me what tools i need i will go out and buy them so i can fix the front end and again thanks a million
 
Tools you need to do the job.

-36mm Socket (for axle shaft nut)
-Breaker bar (to remove axle shaft nut!)
-Torque wrench & specs (recommended!)
-C-clamp (for brakes)
-Ratchet
-Adapter (for big socket)
-7mm Hex socket ( for disk brakes)
-13mm 12-point socket (for knuckle bolts)
-Flat screwdriver (to remove inner u-joint clips)
-Hammer or Vise (to press out u-joint caps)
-Big sockets (the right size to pound or press out caps)

-Standard sockets (to remove trackbar and swaybar links)

-Beer!

Good luck. That's all I can remember.
 
XJCreeper said:
Tools you need to do the job.

-36mm Socket (for axle shaft nut)
-Breaker bar (to remove axle shaft nut!)
-Torque wrench & specs (recommended!)
-C-clamp (for brakes)
-Ratchet
-Adapter (for big socket)
-7mm Hex socket ( for disk brakes)
-13mm 12-point socket (for knuckle bolts)
-Flat screwdriver (to remove inner u-joint clips)
-Hammer or Vise (to press out u-joint caps)
-Big sockets (the right size to pound or press out caps)

-Standard sockets (to remove trackbar and swaybar links)

-Beer!

Good luck. That's all I can remember.
Click to expand...

x2... be prepared to spend some cash for the tools initially... I think I paid like 25 for my 36mm socket, but it's saved the day more than once out on the trail, and not just on my axle.
 
LilRedRover said:
x2... be prepared to spend some cash for the tools initially... I think I paid like 25 for my 36mm socket, but it's saved the day more than once out on the trail, and not just on my axle.
Click to expand...
ok the tools and tracbar leave out the swaybar end link what u joints should i get if u would like to talk to me or mybe help me on line u can add me to yahoo messenger at
[email protected]
 
You should be able to get the correct u joints from any car parts store. However sense you said this is the second time they're being replaced (I'm assuming this didn't happen from abuse) I would say the yoke's are bent. If so then you're going to need new shafts as well. No harder to replace than just doing the crosses, but just a heads up. As far as the other stuff the upper track bar bushing is just a TRE, and the swar bar links have nothing in them to go bad really (but the rubber bushing). Also I would suggest letting a shop do the work (90% of your problems should have been easy to see by just looking at it so I'm assuming your not to mechanicaly inclined).
 
scoobyxj said:
You should be able to get the correct u joints from any car parts store. However sense you said this is the second time they're being replaced (I'm assuming this didn't happen from abuse) I would say the yoke's are bent. If so then you're going to need new shafts as well. No harder to replace than just doing the crosses, but just a heads up. As far as the other stuff the upper track bar bushing is just a TRE, and the swar bar links have nothing in them to go bad really (but the rubber bushing). Also I would suggest letting a shop do the work (90% of your problems should have been easy to see by just looking at it so I'm assuming your not to mechanicaly inclined).
Click to expand...

I also agree with this, and if your yokes are bent you're probably looking at 5-600 dollars for chromo inners and outers, but will be well worth it in the end. If you want to try and just do the joints again, just get a cheaper set of joints so if you do break more from the yokes being screwed, you aren't out much. Once you get the chromo shafts, buy the best joints you can find. Also, I'm not going to assume anything, but if you aren't a real mechanically inclined person, I would also tell you to get it done at a shop. Your axle tubes have seals in them and if you try it yourself and booger up those seals you are gonna be screwed. Not to mention actually getting it done is a PITA.
 
raelayotte said:
what i have is both u-joint (axle) sway bar link and track bar this is the 2nd time i have changed the axle u joints
Click to expand...
And you have $1500 to spend on this?
Buy the parts, the tools to install them, and a lift & tires with the other grand.
 
see the thing is i move and left all my tools back home in the upper michigan becouse i dont have a place to store them here but any how in going to put cheap ujoint in and a hd tracbar in and buy some (good tools)
thank u very much u all are great
 
raelayotte said:
see the thing is i move and left all my tools back home in the upper michigan becouse i dont have a place to store them here but any how in going to put cheap ujoint in and a hd tracbar in and buy some (good tools)
thank u very much u all are great
Click to expand...
BTW, you're 35 bud.
Please don't post like a 16 year old text messenger.
Grammar is your friend.
 
What is this, a dd or off-roader, or both. Does it have a lift, what are you wanting to do with it as far as off-road ready. If it's a dd, go to a pull-it-apart junkyard. They sell axles complete for under $100. Just make sure you get an HP Dana 30 and that it's not a vacume disconnect type. If it's a wheeler, and tool storage and time, and space are a problem. Take the axles out, you'll need a hub socket and some of the tools above, and take them to a machine shop with a press. It costs $50 to replace the u-joints. Get some spicers and throw them back in there. If your shafts are messed up, again the pull-apart yard will have those too for around $30.

Track bar go buy a RE HD and put it on yourself, you'll need a tre pickle fork, and a BFH. Sway bar, buy some disconnects from Tere, RE, or JKS. This is easy stuff to do yourself. AGAIN, if this is you daily driver ocassional no lift off-roader. Go to pull it apart and get the parts. TRE's are cheap and easy to replace.
 
the u-joints won't be available at auto zone, or oreilly or advance/checker.

chromos won't cost 500 bucks

$35 outers $120 inners from yukon, and spicer 760x for $20 apiece thats about 350 for both sides if you include full circle clips.

4wdhardware charges $200+ for stock replacement pre-assembled shafts

don't worry bout your 1500 dollar mark, you could put in a d-44 for less than that if you shop wisely.
 
goodburbon said:
the u-joints won't be available at auto zone, or oreilly or advance/checker.

chromos won't cost 500 bucks

$35 outers $120 inners from yukon, and spicer 760x for $20 apiece thats about 350 for both sides if you include full circle clips.

4wdhardware charges $200+ for stock replacement pre-assembled shafts

don't worry bout your 1500 dollar mark, you could put in a d-44 for less than that if you shop wisely.
Click to expand...

yukon is shit, but whatever... I've seen every rig running yukon gears or shafts break. Go with superior or warn. Do it right the first time.
 
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