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Exhaust manifold recommendations

gba88

NAXJA Forum User
Location
PA
My 99 manifold is now split at the collector and I'm going to need to replace it this year. Can you guys recommend which one to go with? I see no less than 6 at Rock auto, and a quick ebay search turned up the 2 listed here.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...1776,exhaust+&+emission,exhaust+manifold,5860


https://www.ebay.com/itm/3046665560...KZ08I896CO0zTZz0SMK0OkIhfA==|tkp:BFBMpoSl68hh

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1755947127...6C5wts+okvzPFusP8A85XjnW6E|tkp:Bk9SR6aEpevIYQ

When I looked at oreilly and advance, I think they were around 200, I'd rather stay well under that if possible. This is just a DD and not really sure how much longer it will even be in service as it's getting real close to it's end of life I think. Thanks for any help
 
From what I understand, the ones with bellows or flex pipes are supposedly better to resist cracking.

Also, the flange thickness is important. It should be the same thickness as your intake manifold. Apparently, some are thinner and make the install process more difficult.

Don't forget the mounting hardware, too. Someone makes a titanium stud kit, I can't remember who, but others can chime in with that info. I think it comes with everything you need.
 
From what I understand, the ones with bellows or flex pipes are supposedly better to resist cracking.

Also, the flange thickness is important. It should be the same thickness as your intake manifold. Apparently, some are thinner and make the install process more difficult.

Don't forget the mounting hardware, too. Someone makes a titanium stud kit, I can't remember who, but others can chime in with that info. I think it comes with everything you need.

Boostworks, they are a great investment if you were keeping your Jeep!
https://www.boostwerksengineering.com/Jeep-40L-Titanium-Manifold-Stud-Kit-V20_p_39.html
 
It's not that I'd be getting rid of it out of choice, it's just rusting apart. Had rockers welded in last year to try to get a year or so out of it then spent about a month doing a ton of body work on it.

At $125, there's no way I could justify the investment (you don't wanna see what's behind the fender flares LOL).

That would be good info about knowing what flange I needed for my "version"...I think I heard something about that on a how to video I saw. I have heard the flex versions are the way to go. I dread doing the job, but I already tried some of that jb weld "extreme heat" garbage...I let it cure literally 3 days and I think it held up for about 30 minutes LOL!!!
 
For what is it worth, the ATP101212 would not work in my '99. The intake manifold contacts the number 6 tube. I suppose I could have ground the intake to provide the necessary clearance but I'm trying to keep my as close to factory as reasonable. I sent it back and am waiting for PN101330. Hopefully that one will fit.

I will say this about the ATP I had; the welds looked good and there was no flash to be ground off either outside or inside the manifold. It looked good.

That said, the hardware is trash. I wish they would provide the "serrated" type collector studs like the factory. The bolt supplied is 3/8" as needed for the flange but the hole in the manifold collector is 1/2". I didn't like that so I made a bushing for it. I could not find the proper stud anywhere.

And the collector gasket also didn't fit. I had to cut out a considerable amount of the material to squeeze it on.

I am also thinking about swapping out the regular steel bolt for a stainless steel one.
 
Can't edit here so I found the cone washers. I'll clean mine up, lol. Another question though: Is the gasket that comes with these manifolds good enough to use?

Or should I buy a Fel-Pro?
 
...

I am also thinking about swapping out the regular steel bolt for a stainless steel one.

If you mean using stainless steel hardware to attachment the manifolds, keep in mind that most stainless steel hardware is not suitable for high strength, elevated temperature service. The best stuff is nickel-base alloys which people often refer to as Inconel (of which there are many variants with some not suitable for high temperature, high strength service), and these will not corrode.
 
If you were closer, I'd give you one of the stock ones I have. I do travel through PA, to Harrisburg. I don't expect to till April.
 
If you mean using stainless steel hardware to attachment the manifolds, keep in mind that most stainless steel hardware is not suitable for high strength, elevated temperature service. The best stuff is nickel-base alloys which people often refer to as Inconel (of which there are many variants with some not suitable for high temperature, high strength service), and these will not corrode.

I'm not sure why I posted that. I considered SS, but at my local hardware, the guy informed me that the SS bolts were softer than the OE ones. I bought identical bolts to the OE, except they were not rusty.:thumbup:
 
If you were closer, I'd give you one of the stock ones I have. I do travel through PA, to Harrisburg. I don't expect to till April.

I appreciate the thought! I'm about 1.5 hours north east of Pittsburgh though, so on the other side of the state unfortunately.
 
When I replaced the one on my '98 I went with a low cost one with the flex sections.
No issues years later.

Do you remember where you got it and the part number?

I'm just dreading tearing all the crap out to get at it. Saw a video of a guy on youtube saying it's hour long job HA HA HA... maybe if you do it all the time and nothing goes wrong (yeah, like that will happen)
 
Do you remember where you got it and the part number?

I'm just dreading tearing all the crap out to get at it. Saw a video of a guy on youtube saying it's hour long job HA HA HA... maybe if you do it all the time and nothing goes wrong (yeah, like that will happen)
My Bank Revolver has a couple bolts that are next to impossible to get, impossible to get a torque wrench on!
 
I appreciate the thought! I'm about 1.5 hours north east of Pittsburgh though, so on the other side of the state unfortunately.

I actually drive through Pittsburg on my way to Harrisburg. Note, I'm in IN. PM me your address. I'll see if shipping is a possibility.

As to headers and bolts, I have a Pace Setter on my '98 with the 2000+ manifold. Only 1 bolt that I couldn't get directly to. I remember the Doug Thorley and doable, but not easy. Also, with a 2000+ manifold. I forget which manifold (JBA) for the 2000 XJ. Its a compact one. Not fun. About 2 fingers just trying to get a bolt in a few of the holes. And my arm stretched out. Yeah, not a 1 job. more like a day job. My Clifford I think was almost easy or like stock, but one of the tubes is bent tight. So, I never had that bolt in. Yeah, haven't run it either.
I've had two Pace Setters. The first was when they had one 'sleeve, for the down pipe. It was ceramic coated and did OK. Reasons for selecting was Price, had a down pipe and RENIX compatible. The prsent one, was cheep, used one. But for a TJ
 
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Well after finding what I found today, I think I just wanna go with a new one that has the "flex" joints. I don't think I wanna use a stock one. The whole damn bottom of that inner pipe is split open, too..what a POS.

So no one ever really recommended one from my original post, do you guys just all use stock ones or what? I really don't wanna buy one with no track record...be a real pain to do the job and have to pull all that garbage apart again.
 
That's because cheap and good dont be long in the same sentence!
 
Well after finding what I found today, I think I just wanna go with a new one that has the "flex" joints. I don't think I wanna use a stock one. The whole damn bottom of that inner pipe is split open, too..what a POS.

So no one ever really recommended one from my original post, do you guys just all use stock ones or what? I really don't wanna buy one with no track record...be a real pain to do the job and have to pull all that garbage apart again.

So anything under 200 is junk?
 
I think you will be okay with ATP. The two now I have had look good. Welds look good and nothing to clean up.

Unfortunately Rock Auto keeps sending me the wrong ones. ATP has mis-boxed a group I guess.

I order 101330 twice and received 101212 which won't fit.

I decided to try Amazon. Hopefully coming from a different location will get it right.

Glad this isn't my daily driver. I'd be pissed. lol.
 
My atp cracked not long after installing it, maybe 6 months? Yes, my engine mounts we're good, no I didn't have an exhaust flex. It could have been a poorly made one since they are mass produced in china, probably by someone who doesn't know how to weld stainless or it's a poor quality stainless
 
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