2000 xj engine replacement additional questions

[Joshua13]

2000 xj 4.0L automatic.
265,000 kms
In canada, no cali or fed emissions

Ive through the threads on here and i still have a few questions. I changed my oil last week and found significant metal chunkys in the bottom of my oil tray. I have owned the jeep for less than 50,000 kms. I do not know its history. There was always a light knock in the engine, i assumed it was a lifter tick and didnt really examine it. After i found the metal i listened closely and it is coming from bottom end. I cut the filter open and it had no chunks in it. I always add lucas stabilizer when i change my oil (every 5,000-8000kms)

Based on this i am planning on buying a used replacement engine, preparing it as best i can before it needs to go in, and when my engine goes ill have a motor ready and i wont be in a panic.

I have swapped motors before but it has been on older models and they have always been standard transmissions.

I can find both an engine from 97-99 and a tupy head at a local jeep junk yard.

My questions are these:
1) any other compatibility issues that may creep up with these newer engines?

2) anything i should know when disconnecting an auto trans, and if the replacement engine is from a standard is there anything i need to transfer over? (Iirc there is a flex plate in addition to the flywheel)

3) since ill have the engine on a stand for a while (hopefully) what can i do to it while its out to make it last longer. As in gaskets, timing chain etc? Budget is tight but if there is something that should definitely be done while the motor is out id like to do it.

4) any other tips, tricks, advice or youtube videos i should watch?



Sent from my SM-A326W using Tapatalk

[Joshua13]

Those are the above mentioned chunkies

Sent from my SM-A326W using Tapatalk

[75SV1]

As to blocks, the 96-2001 XJ blocks are the same. Except the 99-2001 have a thrust plate for the camshaft. A bit better design. Main problem is aftermarket camshafts and timing chain. I did have two camshaft reground by Schneider's cams. Also, Russ Pottenger is suppose to be doing camshafts and timing chain sets. I did email him on some other stuff. He should have some timing chain sets in about a month.
Going from memory, I tilted the engine and trans down after taking off the engine mounts. That is to get to the two upper trans bolts. I think I made some threaded rods, or hacked off the heads on some bolts for the top bolts, so I could align the engine to the trans. I did this too when I had an engine and trans out.
I'd get a new harmonic balancer and probably an oil pump. Check the crankshaft for movement. You will need a dial indicator.

[Joshua13]

Anyone have any comments?

Sent from my SM-A326W using Tapatalk

[Joshua13]

The biggest xj site and nobody wants to coment? 150 views so far...at least say hi

Sent from my SM-A326W using Tapatalk

[75SV1]

Originally Posted by Joshua13

The biggest xj site and nobody wants to coment? 150 views so far...at least say hi

Sent from my SM-A326W using Tapatalk

You calling me a nobody?

[Joshua13]

Originally Posted by 75SV1

You calling me a nobody?

Ok well one guy was really helpful actually.

Sent from my SM-A326W using Tapatalk

[Unclewolverine]

1. No.
2. Not really. If its never been pulled the top bolts are inverted torx and hard to remove. Replace with regular bolts. Remove flywheel, re use your flex plate.
3. Timing chain is not a bad idea. Main bearings are cheap. Front and rear main seals are a must. Re seal oil filter adapter is a good idea.
4. Not that I can think of.

[Unclewolverine]

Valve stem seals. My jy engine went from burning a quart of oil every 300 miles to half a quart in 5k from just valve stem seals.

[75SV1]

I do have an engine out for rebuild. I am having ARP rod bolts installed. I will also use ARP head bolts. Also, I'll replace the oil pump. Stock oil pump OK. Did I mention harmonic balancer. Some say to avoid Doorman. I'd have the head reconditioned if not to much. Rear main seal.

[Unclewolverine]

Arp's are overkill for a stock, budget rebuild. Oil pumps rarely have problems, its almost always cam bearings that drop the oil pressure. He said he wanted to save as much as possible while addressing any issues that should really be taken care of.

[RCP Phx]

Originally Posted by Joshua13

2) anything i should know when disconnecting an auto trans, and if the replacement engine is from a standard is there anything i need to transfer over? (Iirc there is a flex plate in addition to the flywheel)

The Flex-plate "replaces" the flywheel!

[75SV1]

Originally Posted by Unclewolverine

Arp's are overkill for a stock, budget rebuild. Oil pumps rarely have problems, its almost always cam bearings that drop the oil pressure. He said he wanted to save as much as possible while addressing any issues that should really be taken care of.

OK, still its a JY engine. I've had issues with the two I bought. One I did replace the oil pump. My pressure went from 13 to 25 PSI at idle and hot. I don't like to have to pull the pan when engine is in the vehicle. Oil Pump rebuild kit $50. Oil Pump, I see $80 to $160 (ouch). Not knowing what the engines history is, I would get new head bolts. FlePro about $40-$50. ARPs about $80. FlePro's have the Valve Cover locating studs.
I would take off one of the main caps, and look at the bearings, ditto on the rod bearings. Maybe plastigage them. I'd really check the #3 main, I think thats the one with the thrust bearing. Rear one to replace the seal. Check the timing chain and replace as a set if needed. Also, the buffer for the timing chain.

[Joshua13]

Originally Posted by 75SV1

OK, still its a JY engine. I've had issues with the two I bought. One I did replace the oil pump. My pressure went from 13 to 25 PSI at idle and hot. I don't like to have to pull the pan when engine is in the vehicle. Oil Pump rebuild kit $50. Oil Pump, I see $80 to $160 (ouch). Not knowing what the engines history is, I would get new head bolts. FlePro about $40-$50. ARPs about $80. FlePro's have the Valve Cover locating studs.

I would take off one of the main caps, and look at the bearings, ditto on the rod bearings. Maybe plastigage them. I'd really check the #3 main, I think thats the one with the thrust bearing. Rear one to replace the seal. Check the timing chain and replace as a set if needed. Also, the buffer for the timing chain.

If do bearings, will need to machine the crank? If plastigauge is too thick i get thicker bearing right? Ive only rebuilt one engine and that was with help a long time ago (teenager in my IROC)

Sent from my SM-A326W using Tapatalk

[RCP Phx]

Originally Posted by Joshua13

If do bearings, will need to machine the crank?
No, unless you discover a issue.
If plastigauge is too thick i get thicker bearing right?
Plastigauge is only used for checking the bearing clearance, if you need to grind the crank then yes you would need new bearings.
Ive only rebuilt one engine and that was with help a long time ago (teenager in my IROC)