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Breaking in New Brakes

gcam

NAXJA Forum User
Location
alberta, canada
I've got the day off, and am getting some maintenance stuff done on the XJ. I've looked through my FSM, but there is nothing in there on breaking in procedures for new pads, rotors, shoes, and drums. I've seen a couple of methods for breaking in new brakes on here before, but did a few searches with no luck. Thanks for any help.

Geoff
 
For the front just dont brake too hard for the first week or so for the rear drums once they are on adjust the wheel so the tire will spin with difficulty and reverse and brake hard twice for them to adjust.

pete
 
For the front,do several hard stops from about 30 to 10 mph,not to the point of lock up but almost.The brake should be hot when your done,let them cool and then use as normal.
Rear ,adjust till you hear the drum scratching the brake shoe,then several stops in reverse SHOULD bring the self-adjusters into play and your good to stop.
Wayne
 
Factory calls for several moderate to hard stops from @45 down to @10 w/ a little time to cool in between. This is the way I always broke in pads when doing a brake service at the dealer. They will get hot during this process, and that is what you want. Once this process is done and they are allowed to cool for a little while they will grab much harder. This process is called burnishing and is needed for pretty much any brake. Not doing it only increases the time till the brakes will perform properly.
 
I think I copied this from some tech manual a while ago, I don't really remember where I found it...



In order to maximize the longevity and performance of brake pads certain steps should be taken, these include pad bedding and rotor seasoning.

Bedding
Bedding helps remove the top layers of the pad to draw out any binding resins, (if your pads are factory burnished the binder has already been removed) and helps deposit pad material onto the rotor, so instead of the pad rubbing against the rotor metal, you essentially have pad rubbing against pad deposited material. This helps brakes work smoother, more responsively, and spares both pads and rotor from unnecessary wear.

Bedding a pad, (should be done on used rotors!):

1) Make 6-8 moderate stops, at about 30mph to heat up the pads slowly.
2) Make 6-8 hard stops at higher speeds.
3) Park car and allow pads to cool at least 30 minutes before reusing, to allow them to return to ambient temperature.

Braking in new rotors
It is important to properly brake in new (never used) rotors in order to heat stabilize them and prevent warping. Always break in new rotors on pads that have already been bedded.

Rotor brake in:

1) Use pads that have already been bedded.
2) Drive at normal speeds but use brake lightly about 20-30 times, avoid hard stops for at least 8-10 non highway miles.
3) Apply brakes very hard for 2-3 stops at higher speeds, upwards of 50mph.
4) Park car and allow rotors to cool off to ambient temperate before reuse.
Don't go out and beat on "green" rotors, or you are likely to damage them.

Tip:
Basically don't change the whole thing at one time; do not change pads and rotors at the same time.
 
Reviving this super old thread. I recently had my front brakes done at a shop (400m ago) (pads, rotors, flex lines, calipers) but I was totally unaware of this break in procedure. My brakes are really hard to "feather" right now, like I keep locking them up at stop signs, etc. They just go from not grabbing, to locked up pretty quick, not enough feel/middle ground in them. Is this a result of not breaking them in properly? Is there a way to do it now. Or will this situation improve over time. In snow/ice it's a pretty big issue.

thanks for any tips
 
Reviving this super old thread. I recently had my front brakes done at a shop (400m ago) (pads, rotors, flex lines, calipers) but I was totally unaware of this break in procedure. My brakes are really hard to "feather" right now, like I keep locking them up at stop signs, etc. They just go from not grabbing, to locked up pretty quick, not enough feel/middle ground in them. Is this a result of not breaking them in properly? Is there a way to do it now. Or will this situation improve over time. In snow/ice it's a pretty big issue.

thanks for any tips


Necrothread 🤣

Not sure if it helps, but i had a similar issue on an 86XJ. Barely touching the brakes locked up the rears. I would squeal tires and slide for half a block when slowing down to turn (luckily it was 5spd, unlucky the slave cyl was shot lol)

Turns out the idiot with the wrench (me) apparently put the e-brake together wrong. First time ever doing drum brakes.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Reviving this super old thread. I recently had my front brakes done at a shop (400m ago) (pads, rotors, flex lines, calipers) but I was totally unaware of this break in procedure. My brakes are really hard to "feather" right now, like I keep locking them up at stop signs, etc. They just go from not grabbing, to locked up pretty quick, not enough feel/middle ground in them. Is this a result of not breaking them in properly? Is there a way to do it now. Or will this situation improve over time. In snow/ice it's a pretty big issue.

thanks for any tips
Front, rear, or both?
 
Pretty sure its the fronts with the issue but need to investigate further

ebrake? really? elaborate?

Mine is 5 speed too. 1991 Sport


I traded that jeep in shortly after replacement, but the mechanic for the lot i traded at said something along the lines of the e brake shoes being reversed…maybe it was the springs he was talking about. I didnt really ask 🤷🏼*♂️


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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