- Location
- REDLANDS, CA. (SoCal)
-
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Calico Night Run Saturday Oct. 22, 2016
- Thread starter Bent
- Start date
- Location
- REDLANDS, CA. (SoCal)
- Location
- REDLANDS, CA. (SoCal)
Everything looks better with a coat of primer!
Any thoughts as to whether or not I ought to run a bead of body seam sealant along the top of the frame plating?
This is going to need fixed:
It has to wait until I can drive to the exhaust shop , though.
The one head scratcher I do have is why my drive shaft is too long now. IIRC it had about 7/8" before the splines bottomed out sitting at static ride height. Now it looks more like 1/4" or less. Any ideas? Not that it matters; it still is going to need shortened.
Any thoughts as to whether or not I ought to run a bead of body seam sealant along the top of the frame plating?
This is going to need fixed:
It has to wait until I can drive to the exhaust shop , though.
The one head scratcher I do have is why my drive shaft is too long now. IIRC it had about 7/8" before the splines bottomed out sitting at static ride height. Now it looks more like 1/4" or less. Any ideas? Not that it matters; it still is going to need shortened.
- Location
- REDLANDS, CA. (SoCal)
As far as the exhaust goes, a bit of the damage happened prior to the Calico incident. What I'm thinking I'm going to have to do is go with a dropped pitman arm and track bar bracket. With them more horizontal the axle / pinion will move less side to side as the suspension moves them up and down.
Finding a pitman arm will be a snap but I may have to make or modify a TB bracket to retain the parallelism of the two linkages. Fortunately this doesn't need to happen right away.
Finding a pitman arm will be a snap but I may have to make or modify a TB bracket to retain the parallelism of the two linkages. Fortunately this doesn't need to happen right away.
- Location
- Williams AZ
I debated the same on my plating, decided it was impossible to seal it 100%, so I didn't want to seal it 99% and make it harder to dry out.
- Location
- In a strange land
I went ahead and did the seam sealer on mine.
I figured between the seam sealer, the primer, the paint and the (not yet done) undercoating I would have it sealed 100%.
You will have to make up your own mind.
I figured between the seam sealer, the primer, the paint and the (not yet done) undercoating I would have it sealed 100%.
You will have to make up your own mind.
- Location
- WA state
According to rockclimber RTV increases the strength of parts meted together. At least diff covers anyways..
scottmcneal
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- not here
Hey is this run ever going to happen or is it just a pipe dream Bent? Shit i'll buy a house in utard before you finish. So get on it son.
- Location
- REDLANDS, CA. (SoCal)
Hmmmm...?
Rock sliders - bolt or weld to frame rails. Welding *might* be easier in the short term. It would also make it easier to tie in reinforcement for the leaf spring perch.
Bolting because (though I don't know why at this juncture) I can take them off more easily.
Rock sliders - bolt or weld to frame rails. Welding *might* be easier in the short term. It would also make it easier to tie in reinforcement for the leaf spring perch.
Bolting because (though I don't know why at this juncture) I can take them off more easily.
- Location
- Williams AZ
I welded, mostly due to laziness. I felt it was more work to bolt, not as stiff, possibility of bolts loosening, and could be cut off if needed.
- Location
- In a strange land
I have been wrestling with the same dilemma in my mind.
The biggest issue I see is the lower bolt for the front fender. If you weld on your sliders then you can't get to that bolt to fix your hinges when a Varmint tries to break your door off (I have watched some jerk have to deal with such a situation).
What I have been toying with, but haven't attempted to put into implementation, is reversing the direction of the hardware for the front fender. If I can make that work, and do so in such a fashion that the fender could be removed with the slider still in place (never having needed to remove my fender I am not sure quite how much clearance is needed) then I will probably fall in the "weld them in" camp. It should be stronger, and the sliders should not be difficult to cut off should the need arise down the line.
The biggest issue I see is the lower bolt for the front fender. If you weld on your sliders then you can't get to that bolt to fix your hinges when a Varmint tries to break your door off (I have watched some jerk have to deal with such a situation).
What I have been toying with, but haven't attempted to put into implementation, is reversing the direction of the hardware for the front fender. If I can make that work, and do so in such a fashion that the fender could be removed with the slider still in place (never having needed to remove my fender I am not sure quite how much clearance is needed) then I will probably fall in the "weld them in" camp. It should be stronger, and the sliders should not be difficult to cut off should the need arise down the line.
- Location
- REDLANDS, CA. (SoCal)
Tom, those look to be on with plain old U nuts. Maybe need to shorten the machine screw but it looks like that's it.
- Location
- In a strange land
That is my thinking. Although I may even opt to complicate things a bit by welding a boss on the stiffener and threading it such that the bolt becomes one more attachment point, like the pinch seam.
However, I still don't know how much room is needed in order to remove the fender. Can the fender lift straight up in order to clear the stiffener? Or does it first need to swing out/away from the body? And if it needs to swing away from the body, then how far? 1/2"? Or 6"? Or more?
However, I still don't know how much room is needed in order to remove the fender. Can the fender lift straight up in order to clear the stiffener? Or does it first need to swing out/away from the body? And if it needs to swing away from the body, then how far? 1/2"? Or 6"? Or more?
- Location
- REDLANDS, CA. (SoCal)
Complicated? Haha! Notice I haven't mentioned *how* I was planning on bolting mine on?
Basically straight up and out.
- Location
- In a strange land
This is why I think I need to weld mine on.
If I bolt them on I am going to want to plate both the inside and the outside, and then make myself some DOM inserts with tapered holes inside and matching tapered studs for bolts. Weld in the DOM inserts of course.
It turns into a big project fast.
- Location
- REDLANDS, CA. (SoCal)
Woo-hoo! I finally found a SoCal source for the unobtainium component for my rock sliders! Long Beach is MUCH closer than St. Louis, and two weeks sooner. Who would have thought that 2" x 1" x .188 wall tubing would be so fricking hard to find? A few of the places I called even told me it doesn't exist.
I'm beginning to smell Calico in the moonlight.
I'm beginning to smell Calico in the moonlight.
- Location
- Torrance, CA
How are you going to get it, though? Aren't you still not allowed more than 600 yards West of I-15?
peterjford
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Yorba Linda CA
He puts the GPS tracker on a passed out homeless person and sneaks out.
alek21
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Yorba Linda
Benner metals in fullerton should have that.
- Location
- REDLANDS, CA. (SoCal)
Thanks for the tip. Fullerton would make it easier to kill two birds on this trip since I need to drop a rim off in Gardena anyways. I'll give them a call Monday morning. It would definitely make life easier.
