Southern Utah Wanderings

Day 1 | Saturday, October 3, 2009 | Starting Odometer: 143517



I woke up early on Saturday morning, finished loading up the Jeep and then headed out for a quick breakfast with Amanda before starting on my week-long trip to Southern Utah. After breakfast I hopped onto I-70 west and made my way to Green River and then south to Hanksville, where I topped off my fuel tank and filled my extra gas containers, just in case. Heading further west on UT24 I soon reached Capitol Reef National Park and decided to stop at the Visitor's Center to see if they had any maps or books I was interested in. The park and Visitor's Center was very busy, so i quickly looked around and then got out of there. There were lots of different license plates from all over the country seen in the parking lot, but the majority seemed to be from California. I wanted to get a quick overview of the park, so that I could plan a winter visit here with Amanda; when it should be less crowded. I ended up taking the 'Scenic Drive' that ended in Capitol Gorge. It was a nice scenic drive alright, but there were still too many people around for my taste. I will need to bring Amanda back in the winter so we can do some hiking an exploring with less people around.

A few photos from within Capitol Gorge...











This one was taken along the 'Scenic Drive' on my way back to the highway.

After finishing up the 'Scenic Drive', I needed to get away from the crowds. I headed back east on UT24 again and left the park. I turned off at the Fremont River ford, so that I could make my way north towards Cathedral Valley. When I reached the ford, I found two pickups stopped and trying to figure out how to cross. They watched me cross the Fremont to gauge just how deep the river was (the water level didn't even come halfway up my tires). Later along the trail when I stopped for some photographs at the Bentonite Hills, one of those trucks caught up to me and I found out the other party turned around and headed back instead of crossing the river.





An old drilling rig along the road.




The Bentonite Hills

A little further along the trail I took the side spur trail to the Lower South Desert Overlook and took the short hike.

Jailhouse Rock in the South Desert from the lower overlook


Hiking out to this overlook




After the hike, I tried to make my way over to the Cathedral Valley campground where I hoped to spend the night. However, just before reaching the campground I met up with that same truck that I passed at the ford again, and this time he had two new people in the bed. He was surprised to see me again, as he figured I was well ahead of him, not realizing I had stopped to take a hike. It turns out that the two people in the bed of his truck had hiked to the Upper South Desert Overlook and when they returned to their truck, it would not start. They wanted to know if I had jumper cables. Since I always like to be prepared for anything, I of course had some. We headed back to their truck, hooked up the cables, and did manage to get their vehicle started. I had done my good deed for the day

I finally made my way back to the campground and was happy to see that only one of the six sites was taken. I picked out a site and quickly setup camp. I wanted to get back out before sunset and get some photos. My first stop was the Upper South Desert Overlook again, where I took the half mile hike to a pretty cool overlook.

Final hike to the Upper South Desert Overlook


Crack in the rock and the Henry Mountains in the distance


Next I made my way over to the Cathedral Valley Overlook. I hung around here for a while and then decided to head down into Cathedral Valley for sunset. Unfortunately, some clouds ended up rolling in shortly before sunset.

Cathedral Valley from the overlook

Down in Cathedral Valley




Just before the sun set, i ended up heading back up to the Upper South Desert Overlook again.

Self portrait




After sunset, I headed back to camp, had a bite to eat, did a little reading and was fast asleep pretty early.

Ending Odometer: 143789 | Total Miles: 272

Day 2 | Sunday, October 4, 2009 | Starting Odometer: 143789


After a pretty decent nights sleep (even though it got pretty windy overnight), I ended up waking around 7:00am. Though the wind had died down by now, it was still pretty cloudy out. I broke down camp and had a quick snack before heading out through Cathedral Valley and Caineville Wash. After making my way though Upper Cathedral Valley that I had visited the evening before, I passed the Baker Ranch Road that could take me to I-70 if I was headed that way (This is a road I will have to come back to explore some more.).

Some more photos from Upper Cathedral Valley








I even caught a rainbow


Where to?

I took the next spur road that lead to the Gypsum Sinkhole. I wasn't sure what to expect, but after the short hike I was suprised to find a large sinkhole at the base of a tall cliff. Had I known it was going to be this large, I would have brought my wider lens with me This large pit was formed by the dissolving and draining away of a large gypsum deposit. As I was leaving the canyon that contained the sinkhole, the wind really started to pick up again and started blowing the dust around pretty good, which would continue on and off for much of the rest of the day. It also started to rain off and on for a while.

Headed into the canyon with the Gypsum Sinkhole




Hard to show just how big and deep it is with any photos


It's located at the base of this cliff




Next on my agenda was a stop at Glass Mountain and the Temple of the Sun and the Moon. Glass Mountain was my first stop, and I was not impressed with it. The I spent some time photographing both the Temple of the Sun and the Temple of the Moon.





Glass Mountain

Temple of the Sun






Temple of the Moon

I finished up the loop through Cainville Wash and reached the highway again at Cainville. I headed west again through Capitol Reef National Park and stopped to check out the overlook of the Goosenecks of Sulphur Creek. They were kind of cool, but do not compare to Goosenecks State Park near Mexican Hat.

Washboard section of road on the way back to the highway






I continued on and stopped for fuel in Torrey before turning south on UT 12. When I reached Boulder, I ended up taking a driving break and checking out Anasazi State Park, which was pretty similar to Edge of the Cedars in Blanding.

Goosenecks of Sulpher Creek

Soon I made my way down 'The Hogback' and finally into Escalante. My first stop was the Grand Staircase - Escalante National Monumnet Visitor Center so I could get my backcountry camping permits for the next few nights. Unfortunately, when I was in the parking lot, I noticed that my iPhone was not charging and was almost dead. I needed to figure out a way to charge it so that I could keep in touch with Amanda so she wouldn't worry about me. I decided to grab some lunch at the Circle D Eatery to figure out what I would do.....of course, this seemed to be the only restaurant open in Escalante on a Sunday. I asked the waitress where my best chances for finding a cable would be for my phone and she informed me that both Cedar City and Page, AZ had Walmarts. Cedar City was out of the way for my plans on this trip, however I was planning on eventually making my way down to Page at some point during the week. Since the weather was still windy and cloudy, I figured it would be a good evening to make my way to Page to get a new cable. After I finished eating my burger and shoestring potatos for lunch, the wind knocked the power out to the restaurant and what seemed like much of Escalante.

I left the restaurant and headed south to Cannonville where I jumped on the Cottonwood Canyon Road and headed past Kodachrome Basin State Park on my way towards Page. While I decided not to stop at Kodochrome Basin, I did stop at Grosvenor Arch (formerly Butler Arch) for a few photos.









After making my way further down Cottonwood Canyon Road, I decided to take a break from driving and do a little hiking in the Cottonwood Narrows.

Continuing on, I drove along side the Cockscomb for a while and then along the Paria River before finally reaching US 89.





The Cockscomb






After passing through Big Water and then over the Glen Canyon Dam I finally reached Page. I found the Walmart and got a new cable to charge my phone. Since it was late and still very windy out, I decided it would be best for me to just spend the night in Page and head out in the morning.

Ending Odometer: 144040 | Total Miles: 251

Wow, amazing scenery and great pictures! I could use a good solo trip like that...

Once again you have provided me with more things to do!

Thanks for always Telling/Showing us where you have been!

:thumbup:

I see that new sigma is getting a workout. Are you happy with it?

So far I am happy with it.

Day 3 | Monday, October 5, 2009 | Starting Odometer: 144040


Monday was yet another early morning. I got some breakfast for me and gas for the Jeep and then headed out of Page and back over Glen Canyon Dam. My main goal for today was to finish up at Alstrom Point to catch the sunset and to camp. Since I was already pretty close to Alstrom Point, I needed to find something to fill my fay until then. I looked at my maps and strung together a large loop that would let me finish up back near Big Water. My first destination would be Paria. On my way there I made a quick stop for a view over Lake Powell from the Wahweap Overlook.



I continued on US 89 past Big Water to reach the turnoff to the town site of Paria. Paria, or Parhrea as it was originally spelled, was originally established in 1865 and moved further upstream in 1870 because of Indian raids. Eventually the town had to be abandoned because of repeated floods. there is not much left today.





Unfortunately a few months back the BLM closed the road that followed the Paria River bed through the canyon past Paria to motorized travel, so I would not be continuing on to Cannonville this way.



I parked at the end of the road and did some hiking and exploring along the Paria River.

Tracks in the sand


Dry section of the Paria River bed

Since I had to head back out the way I came, I took a road called the Paria Breaks Road for a change of scenery. There were a number of washouts along this route, but nothing that required me to turn back.







After reaching the highway again, I made my up the paved road through Johnson Canyon to reach the Skutumpah Road which would take me back to Cannonville again.



I had to wait for a little traffic jam to pass me by

I took another break from driving to hike along the rim of the Bull Valley Gorge.






I soon reached Cannonville again, fueled up, and then headed back down Cottonwood Canyon Road. This time the weather was a little better so I got a few more photos from along this route.



Cottonwoods starting to change colors


Cockscomb again


Instead of following the same route back that I had taken yesterday, I consulted my maps again and found a loop that would bypass a section of the Cottonwood Canyon Road. This loop consisted of the Brigham Plains Road and the Coyote Valley Road.

The road immediately switchbacked up behind the Cockscomb up to the top of the Kaiparowits Plateau

That dome of slickrock back there is known as Yellow Rock, and is popular with photographers


The Cockscomb below


The trail leveled out on top of the plateau and crossed it. Once the trail reached the other side, it switchbacked back down and into Coyote Valley as seen in the photo below. Much of the Coyote Valley Road followed the bottom of a sandy wash, but I was in a hurry to make it back to Alstrom point for sunset, that I did not stop for any photos this time.



Soon I was back in Big Water and heading up the Smoky Mountain Road and into the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area to reach Alstrom Point. I did end up making it there before sunset, however I was not expecting it to be as windy as it was. I would not be setting up a tent this evening. I made room in the back of my Jeep so I could sleep in there, instead. There were great views of Gunsight Bay, Gunsight Butte and Navajo Mountain to name a few land features.

Shortly before sunset a foreign couple came to take some photos. He was from Italy and his wife from Cuba. They were nice and we chatted a bit before they took off on their way to the Grand Canyon.












This one got screwed up when I bumped the tripod, but I kind of like the way it looks


Another great day in the books!

Ending Odometer: 144260 | Total Miles: 220

Great trip report, as usual Randy. I hate to say it, but you have traveled way more of my own "back yard" than I have. Can't wait until the kids are older so I can take trips like this.