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XJ Dana 44 Ford Explorer Disc Conversion

Ok, just threw some ZJ rotors on. They move the rotor inboard about 1/8" and seem to fit way better. I was having the outer pad on my drivers rear drag and build up heat on my test drive. Just wanted to pass this info along FYI. Oh, yeah, you don't have to do anything to the ZJ rotor, it just goes right on, no turning on a lathe. :)
 
MoparManiac said:
Did anyone have any problems using the factory knurled bolts on the housing that hold the bracket/shaft on? Are longer ones needed?

EDIT: Oh and what about wheel studs? Are factory ones long enough?
Click to expand...

the four bolts that hold the axle + bracket + axle housing together dont need to be messed with!

ive heard conflicting things about the wheel studs.... however i run one with extended GC wheel studs, and 1 with alloy shafts + just the regular wheel studs that come with the shafts... the extended gc's are a bit longer, however im comfortable with the ammount of thread engagement on the stock sized studs, and nothing has broken wheel stud wise on either axle!
if i start breaking wheel studs, naxja will be the first to know about it.
 
MoparManiac said:
Did anyone have any problems using the factory knurled bolts on the housing that hold the bracket/shaft on? Are longer ones needed?

EDIT: Oh and what about wheel studs? Are factory ones long enough?
Click to expand...
Yes they were toast so I took em out and got all new grade 8 bolts and nuts and grinded one side of the head flat

fukin wheel studs , what a pain in the ass.....

stock will not work and try and to find the same knurl in a .5 to1" longer stud..I went a tad higher and they woulndt seat right

I ended up welding the fukers to the axle:smsoap::link1:
 
VegasAnthony said:
stock will not work and try and to find the same knurl in a .5 to1" longer stud..I went a tad higher and they woulndt seat right. I ended up welding the fukers to the axle:smsoap::link1:
Click to expand...

Correct, stock studs are too short. I found the correct knurled studs locally at .25" longer and they worked fine for the wheels I used (Ravines). Gave me 5 full turns on the nut which is enough. Minimum but enough.
 
Well I have soft 8s (steelies) and the stock wheel studs work fine for me since they're not as thick as alloy/aluminum rims.

As for the axle tube bolts, I just got longer dorman grade 8 or 12 (don't remember) bolts with nylock nuts. They have .25" of thread showing after the nut so the stock ones may be fine?
 
For longer wheel studs you can also use 99+ front wheel studs from the hub.
 
My shafts are Alloy USA and they had the longer studs. As for the retainer plate bolts, just use some 3/8-24x1.25" long with metal locking nuts like the stockers. You just have to grind one of the flats down a bit to make it fit in the axle.
 
hot_rod_hooligans said:
Damn, I really wish I would have read this about a week and a half ago.... guess I'm stuck with Explorer rotors for now.
Click to expand...

Both will work, I think the ZJ are a better fit. CSK had the ZJ rotors for 23 bucks each. I've been playing with the E-brake, and I'm thinking the lever needs modified to get more pull, mine's working, but it's not the greatest.
 
markw said:
Both will work, I think the ZJ are a better fit. CSK had the ZJ rotors for 23 bucks each. I've been playing with the E-brake, and I'm thinking the lever needs modified to get more pull, mine's working, but it's not the greatest.
Click to expand...

I would get the ZJ's but I've bought the Explorer rotoes new, and don't have the money to buy another set of ZJ rotors when theses are woring for me right now. I havn't even started on the e-brake yet. No shoes, no nothing back there right now. I never use my e-brake anyway, but I do plan on fixing them soon, I've heard M.O.R.E. makes e-brake cables for an 8.8 swap, and think I may go with them. I'll probably do the e-brake and rotors about the same time.
 
Last edited:
mjma said:
Yep, had to open up the inside of the rotor like you did, and the inside of the crown vic backing plate. Didn't have to open it too-too much...just did it with a dremel. I asked a machine shop to do it but they weren't sure how they'd do it with the backing plate being all odd shaped and such. I got a fresh new bit for the dremel and went to town, didn't take too long to open them up.

I think I may have taken a pic or two during the process, but don't have them anymore :(. But basically, mine looked like the above when I got it home from the junkyard, and when it was finished it looked shiny, but not as shiny as the above!! Here are the pics of the install. This was two years ago and this one went under my 96XJ, which at the time was on 31" ATs. It's currently on 32" MTs....and may be getting sold. I also installed an aussie at the same time, which I highly recommend!

Dsc00960.jpg

Dsc00959.jpg


And here is my other XJ 44 with 4.88s, a detroit, and still with drums!!
IMG_1313.jpg


I've been thinking of switching the discs over to this XJ. The drums stop the 36s just fine. The only annoyance is that every time I go through some mud the brakes don't stop squeeking!!! I may convert this one over to discs also just to get rid of the squeeking!! I did the disc swap on the smaller XJ because when I pulled the axle from the junk yard one of the drums was kinda messed up.
Click to expand...


What kind of rear bumper is that?
 
OLAK said:
few years ago I ordered an Explorer disk kit from gef racing
It is a little over $300 for all new emerg brake/backing plate/dust shields,calipers, pads, spacers, hardware. ( no brake lines). The install was exactly as you detailed, and it was nice to have all new parts and spacers included
Click to expand...


Now I'm really interested. Does this work for the chry 8.25? factory rims?
 
I like this option better.

what kind of issues would I have with running no dust shields? I hate picking rocks out of them...
 
The only thing that I can think of is you have to use a spacer to make up for the differnece in thickness between the caliper mounting braket and the drum backing plate. While the dust sheild is very thin, it may be enough to be a problem if removed. Mark can correct me on this. Other than that slim chance I dont see a problem with running sheildless.
 
No because the shield attaches to the bracket out side of the axle flange. i.e you could put on the dust shield without taking the brackets of the axle or vice versa
 
what about the retainer plate? That is outboard of the axle flange. I just cant remember if the spacer protrudes past the caliper mounting bracket or not. Like I said, it will most likely be fine without the sheild.
 
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