Renix era ignition switch bypass relays?

Has anyone tried bypassing the stock ignition switch with relays so it's not pulling all those amps through?

I have a slightly high voltage drop issue to my accessories and I'm planning on wiring relays in and grabbing a cable from the battery.

Besides the voltage Guage reading low if I check voltage at various relays or circuits I get less than the 13.7 that the battery was at. Sometimes dropping down to 11.95.

I'm guessing something is getting warm and causing a higher resistance as it slowly drops over time.

I've thought about it, but never took the time. Have you measured to see how much voltage you're losing through the switch itself? To me, it seems like much of the loss was the undersized wiring.

It's been a while but I think mine was also coming from the wiring too. But if I'm going to run a new wire might as well put in some relays too. The switch can be a weakness.

The brown wire at the steering column connector is the one that usually heats up and causes issues.
The yellow wire is the important one for most engine functions. Also, a good spot to put in a kill switch.
Line loss due to corroded connectors is an old Renix sickness. I clean mine yearly. Corroded connectors also mess with sensor values. Getting the connectors part without shattering the plastic can be an issue, it is a risk assessment worth making.

I am well aware of the brittle connectors. Ended up rewiring the entire header panel for headlights. And replaced both tps connectors and will be changing the injector connectors too.

I'm hoping if I wire in the relays that my windows might work a bit better. I still have a flaky control wire going to the alternator so I'm never sure if it's charging or not.

Instrument panel ground is another source of problems. http://cruiser54.com/?p=110
blower motor http://cruiser54.com/?p=211
fuel pump http://cruiser54.com/?p=249