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NP242 Sye install question

SubFreq111

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Columbus, OH
I have a 2001 with a 242 and am in the process of installing an SYE from Iron Rock Offroad. It is just the yoke that fits the splines, and meant to be used with a stock front driveshaft. For the hack and tap, it looks like I need to cut the shaft so there will be 1.25 inches of splines left. If i do that, it looks like the new yoke will hit the metal oil slinger before it bottoms out on the end of the shaft though. Obviously I get rid of the rubber accordion boot with the sye, but do I remove the metal slinger as well?
 
Cut the shaft per the directions. If it doesn't fit, take a little off the yoke. But I highly doubt that it won't work.
 
Place the yoke on as is, factory. And measure to see how much is needed to cut off and fit correctly. Or, as said above, cut per destructions and cut yoke as needed.
 
I have found that the IRO instructions make the output shaft stub a bit short. I suggest you do the measuring/calculating and then add 1/2 inch to the results. If necessary, you can trim more of off the output shaft. Or, as suggested, you can also trim a bit off the IRO yoke. It's a Jeep, YMMV (Your Measurements May Vary).
 
I'll probably have to cut down the yoke as you guys suggested if I'm to leave the slinger in place. Mounting the yoke further back really isn't an option. I think the 8.8 + flange/yoke adapter push the driveshaft further forward.
 
I've installed a few of these and the easiest thing I have found to do is put the yoke on the shaft and measure the distance between the slinger and the back of the yoke. You can then cut that much off the shaft or the yoke so the yoke should just bottom out on the shortened shaft right before the back of the yoke touches the slinger. The main thing is to keep at least 1.25" of splines on the shaft that will engage the yoke. The last one I installed I shortened both the shaft and the yoke to get a good fit.
 
^awesome. I wondered about that very thing today.

So I'm all finished, and now I have vibes at 60+ mph. Just how important is it that the pinion points directly at the transfer case?
 
^awesome. I wondered about that very thing today.

So I'm all finished, and now I have vibes at 60+ mph. Just how important is it that the pinion points directly at the transfer case?

It's pretty important to prevent vibes. You want the u joint at the diff to have virtually no operating angle on it and the double cardan joint to split the angle so depending on what springs and shackles you have you will need to shim anywhere from 2-6 degrees with 4 being the most common or cut and reweld your spring perches.
 
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