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  #1  
Old August 14th, 2010, 18:07
dave92cherokee's Avatar
dave92cherokee dave92cherokee is offline
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Beginning of 1993 Cheromanche build

Posting this build thread for all those interested in undertaking this task but can't wrap their head around some of the issues involved. Thread will be slow at start but I will update when work is done and will respond to posts between updates.

Info on rigs:
1988 Jeep Comanche Pioneer 4.0/BA10/231 D30/D44
1993 Jeep Cherokee Country 4.0/AW4/2WD C8.25

Onto a few pics.
Here's the original MJ before any work was done. When I picked it up it was previously in water over the rockers. Alot of debris underneath but surprisingly no water in any of the fluids just some remaining water in the exhaust.


Here's the XJ that was my DD, 97+ seats and console, 4.5" lift from old XJ.


The beginning of the end and no turning back now.


That was completed yesterday afternoon in 100* temps after pulling the engine and moving it to the otherside.

Here's the XJ stripped down getting ready for the knife. Fuel completely drained from tank, brake lines and fuel lines disconnected, exhaust removed behind cat., driveshaft removed.


No turning back now on the XJ.


After getting them both cut apart and the leftover pieces rolled into the back yard, Eric (trailratethis) and I rolled the front of the XJ back to the comanche. After some finagling to get them lined up pretty close we came out with this at the end of the day.






That was the end of the day today. Further progress will be on hold as I have to travel for work for the next two weeks and while on the road will be researching more ideas. Future plans will be lengthened driveshaft, xj shackles and 1" blocks, ZJ rear coils, Brown Dog super poly mounts, and more. Any questions on progress so far or future plans or ideas please post to give others in the future all necessary info.
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  #2  
Old August 14th, 2010, 18:48
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bcmaxx bcmaxx is offline
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Re: Beginning of 1993 Cheromanche build

WOW! What are you planning on doing to add strength to the "backbone" , Hats off to you to have the marble bag big enough to do that!! Hope it works out for you!
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  #3  
Old August 14th, 2010, 18:52
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bcmaxx bcmaxx is offline
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Re: Beginning of 1993 Cheromanche build

Quote:
Originally Posted by dave92cherokee View Post
ideas. Future plans will be lengthened driveshaft,
What are you thinking about using for a shaft? Like a ford 2 piece with a steady bearing?
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  #4  
Old August 14th, 2010, 19:00
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John D John D is offline
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Re: Beginning of 1993 Cheromanche build

Longer driveshaft? You're going to need a carrier bearing of some kind to support it

Seriously though, is it going to be that long? What is the wheelbase? It looks REALLLLLLLY long.
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  #5  
Old August 14th, 2010, 18:59
CaliXJ CaliXJ is offline
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Re: Beginning of 1993 Cheromanche build

WOW! I could have thought of a lot of other things to do with that XJ and MJ! Good luck though on your build.
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  #6  
Old August 14th, 2010, 19:00
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Stallacrew Stallacrew is offline
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Re: Beginning of 1993 Cheromanche build

What is the planned wheelbase?
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  #7  
Old August 14th, 2010, 19:07
rweaver138 rweaver138 is offline
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Re: Beginning of 1993 Cheromanche build

this should be interesting, subscribed
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  #8  
Old August 14th, 2010, 20:04
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dave92cherokee dave92cherokee is offline
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Re: Beginning of 1993 Cheromanche build

When I decide whether to keep longer doors or short stock sized doors for the back will change the wheel base anywhere from 6-12". If I go short stock doors then the wheel base is ~144" so the wheelbase can be anywhere from 140-160". When I settle on the length of the doors and start welding the frames together after they're together I'm planning on using some 3" angle to weld to the frame to tie it all together and stiffen it up. The driveshaft will likely be a 1 piece shaft extended as I'm planning on it being a street only rig and it will be lowered a couple inches for better street performance. Depending on how long the shaft is going to be might look into some kind of carrier bearing to put in the middle of the shaft for extra support, but as it will be lowered and the shaft will almost be perfectly straight won't have any major angles to worry about.
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  #9  
Old August 14th, 2010, 20:44
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bcmaxx bcmaxx is offline
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Re: Beginning of 1993 Cheromanche build

Quote:
Originally Posted by dave92cherokee View Post
When I decide whether to keep longer doors or short stock sized doors for the back will change the wheel base anywhere from 6-12". If I go short stock doors then the wheel base is ~144" so the wheelbase can be anywhere from 140-160". When I settle on the length of the doors and start welding the frames together after they're together I'm planning on using some 3" angle to weld to the frame to tie it all together and stiffen it up. The driveshaft will likely be a 1 piece shaft extended as I'm planning on it being a street only rig and it will be lowered a couple inches for better street performance. Depending on how long the shaft is going to be might look into some kind of carrier bearing to put in the middle of the shaft for extra support, but as it will be lowered and the shaft will almost be perfectly straight won't have any major angles to worry about.
You will need a 2 piece with carrier for sure, trust me

Longer than 65 inches the shaft will cease to rotate true and will start to ocilate out of round and self destruct. I tried this and that's what happened at highway speed. It jammed up and split the diff housing in half

Last edited by bcmaxx; August 14th, 2010 at 20:51.
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  #10  
Old August 14th, 2010, 20:37
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TLowery04 TLowery04 is offline
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Re: Beginning of 1993 Cheromanche build

crap that looks like a cool project good luck bud - gonna be like a quad cab pickup?
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  #11  
Old August 14th, 2010, 20:55
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Wil Badger Wil Badger is offline
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Re: Beginning of 1993 Cheromanche build

Have fun with the roof lines. The Comanche cab roof has a different crown and is about 3/4" higher then the Cherokee.



I would go for short rear doors by piecing the rear half of the Comanche door with the front half of the Cherokee rear door.

It's been done before.......no this is not a photochop




You also notice that the Comanche's frame rail is pretty different compared to the Cherokee's
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  #12  
Old December 9th, 2010, 23:39
Spaz_Soldier Spaz_Soldier is offline
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Re: Beginning of 1993 Cheromanche build

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wil Badger View Post


I would LOVE to do this and put a big diesel in, D60s, low gears, put it on 32"s, and make it one badass tow rig.
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  #13  
Old May 6th, 2011, 08:20
1bolt 1bolt is offline
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Re: Beginning of 1993 Cheromanche build

I know thread resurrection sue me. Always hated that burgundy cheromanche, it's just way out of proportion. As is the OP's
still an interesting build from the standpoint of what can go wrong that no one ever really suspects.

Jeepers tend to be can do jump in and start cutting types. But there's some obvious lessons here...

That rear window, and lower rear door, has to be figured out and even fabricated (even if only roughly) before you finish grafting the main bits together. you can't assume the back (latching) end of your door will line up and correctly mate with the door opening, because the B pilar on a XJ might not be pointing exactly square with the new "C pilar" (the MJ B pilar becomes the C pilar).

Two of the only really finished Cheromanche's both went the half way compromise rout, by either leaving the 4 door opening and using the 4 door rear doors (see below), or by using the 4dr door and grafting "filler panels" in (see the upper rear door of the burgundy cheromanche above)

A more professional compromise would be to use the 2 door (or MJ) door opening at the C pilar, and then graft the lower rear corner of a MJ or 2d XJ door, so you eliminate the wheel housing shape from the 4dr XJ C pilar. this allows you to use the 4rd window/door frame, while making it look less "hack" on the lower portion.

Everyone loves those blue photochop MJ's the only problem is the rear door and window are a tall order. you can do them with the above graft suggestion for the lower rear part of the door, and then have custom glass made to fit your custom frabricated upper rear door frame...

It would be much easier and in the end maybe better looking to just forgo the MJ rear window and use the metal rear hatch/graft of an 97+ XJ. This kills two birds:

A) your roof line problem becomes much easier (you're effectively shortening the rear of a 4dr XJ) so you take out ('section') a few feet of the cargo area, and graft the roof and upper D pilar of the 4 dr, and graft in the lower back of the MJ cab. plus the bed rails.

B) Fixes your upper door lines to look like they belong there. and your lower door lines can use the lower rear corner of an MJ style door.

C) Optionally you can get REAL fancy and do something Chevy Avalanche-like with the rear hatch.

This is my personal preference, and what I plan to do eventually myself (retirement project maybe?)

My personal idea is to use the upper half of the metal 97+ hatch cut off the bottom, use the D pilar of that 4dr XJ, and the lower back cab of the MJ. In such a way as I end up with a mini-hatch and possibly a fold down lower hatch, with a bobbed MJ bed.

Slightly longer than this, with slightly longer wheelbase (not a photochop, should be familiar to old timers):

In short something very Explorer Sport-trac or 4 door Durago proportioned.

Last edited by 1bolt; May 6th, 2011 at 08:26.
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  #14  
Old May 6th, 2011, 11:00
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Root Moose Root Moose is offline
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Re: Beginning of 1993 Cheromanche build

@1bolt

Exactly! Someone else sees the issues!

The problem with the methods you have proposed is that it does not leave a lot of headroom for the rear seat passengers. Maybe you mean to address this but did not write it in your post.

There is a reason why the MJ has such a thick B pillar. It's so that there is room for the occupants heads while wearing a hat and/or in a mild accident situation so that the head has some room to bob/move/whip. Those old MJ benches really should have had head rests.

It's annoying to have parts of your head almost touch the interior of a vehicle.

Sit in your MJ and consider where your head is relative to the rear glass. There's a bunch of space between.

I've seen these chops done where the rear XJ bench top is right against the glass. Must be really uncomfortable for adults, even kids.

I agree the proportion on the red truck in your post is close to ideal. Very "SportTrac". I'd likely want to add some wheelbase by adding 6"-9" to the box forward of the rear wheel opening. I'd need to play with the image in PS and sketchup to see what looks good. I'd might try to add a few inches to the rear overhang too - not much but a bit more. What's the point of having a PU that can't used as a PU?
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  #15  
Old May 6th, 2011, 13:48
1bolt 1bolt is offline
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Re: Beginning of 1993 Cheromanche build

Definitely thought of head room, in fact if you look at interior pics of the red "sporttrac" style one I posted you'll see that he has some sort of hack jump seat setup in there, because of the lack of room behind the seat. Makes sense, if you look at a 4dr XJ the rear seat back is visibly behind the C pillar, and that's not exactly a roomy back seat either. I want the cab extended more than that but with similar proportions (so maybe 6 inches). When I combine the D pillar to the C pillar I'm going to put a filler panel in between them to get that room, and a comanche cab corner/lower door pillar (plus bed rail tie in in the middle of the XJ unibody). Which eliminates the wheel arch and lets me cut a triangular section of the bottom of the door off and graft it onto the 4dr door.
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