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  #46  
Old January 14th, 2008, 17:21
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falcon556 falcon556 is offline
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Re: [Tech Writeup] Replacing the seals on your Dana 30

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blaine B.
Could be a screwed seal too.

If I lift the driver's side, gear oil pours out the passenger side....even with the shaft in. Any my passenger side seal IS screwed!
The passenger shaft is the long and heavy one. It is possible to push the seal out without realizing that you did. I always try to feel it getting centered before I push in.
I mean, if the seal is there it is not going to pour out. No matter what it would be a slow leak.
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  #47  
Old January 14th, 2008, 17:55
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Blaine B. Blaine B. is offline
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Re: [Tech Writeup] Replacing the seals on your Dana 30

I broke a front shaft and it was wobbling around inside the axle tube for awhile. Ultimately that's what screwed the seal.

I got new seals, just gotta do it...
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  #48  
Old June 12th, 2008, 20:51
nitchkabob nitchkabob is offline
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Re: [Tech Writeup] Replacing the seals on your Dana 30

Great write up, it really helped me! I did my axle seals today, not too bad. One question; why in the world did you drop the drive shaft? I don't really get that unless it allowed you to inspect something, please enlighten me.
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  #49  
Old June 12th, 2008, 22:27
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Re: [Tech Writeup] Replacing the seals on your Dana 30

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Originally Posted by nitchkabob
Great write up, it really helped me! I did my axle seals today, not too bad. One question; why in the world did you drop the drive shaft? I don't really get that unless it allowed you to inspect something, please enlighten me.
i dropped the driveshaft because i had a squeak in the front end, which ended up being the double cardon joint... i guess i forgot to mention that in the writeup glad it helped you out, that is why i wrote it. you dont need to remove the front shaft, but it does make it (slightly) easier to put the carrier back in.


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  #50  
Old July 22nd, 2008, 08:26
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Re: [Tech Writeup] Replacing the seals on your Dana 30

Quote:
Originally Posted by GrimmJeeper
man, that was some good carne asada, now back to work.

clean the housing out as good as you can. get the brake cleaner and wash it out completely. dont forget to clean the axle tubes out. we did this by shoving a rag into the tube from the inside, then using the broom stick from before to push it all the way to the outside of the tube. do this a few times, shaking the rag off each time and shooting some brake cleaner in there. once youve got it all cleaned out wipe out the surfaces where the seals sit and it should look like this:



make sure to clean all the old silicone off the diff cover and the housing, i used a scraper and an abrasive disk mounted to a drill, the kind you clean old gaskets off with. a wire wheel on a grinder works very well too. make sure you clean all the little pieces of silicone out of the housing after this step.

rub a small amount of fresh gear oil all over the seal to make it slide in easier, and to pre lube the rubber seal surface so the axles dont tear the rubber when you put them back in. put the seal in from the inside with the horn shaped side facing towards the outside.



this part will take two people, but hey, thats why you bought so much beer right? place a 36MM socket against the seal, and slide your broomstick in from the outside of the axle tube. line the stick up on the socket...



and hit it with the hammer to seat the seal. it will take awhile of tapping and repositioning the broomstick against the socket to get it to seat completly. once you get one side in move to the other one and do the same thing. make sure the stick you are using is small enough in diameter to fit through the seal for when you need to do the other side. we had to switch to a piece of conduit pipe to get to the second side.





once you get the seals seated make sure to knock over the bottle of gear oil just past the edge of the drip board, then use brake cleaner to make the stain bigger.



clean the bearings and races for the carrier off with brake cleaner to make sure you didnt get dirt on them when you were checking the bearings, then put it back together and pop the carrier in. put the caps back on and get out the torque wrench. tourqe the cap bolts to 60ft/lbs. you really need to use the tourque wrench here, you cant get away with just making them as tight as you think they need to be. improper torque settings on these bolts will cause uneven wear on the bearings, and more problems for you down the road. do it right the first time.



slide the axle shafts back in slowly, making sure you dont tear those nice new seals you just spent all day putting in.line up the bolt holes in the rotor backing plates and the unit bearings. make sure you are putting the backing plates back on facing the correct way. if you dont get them on right the calipers won't go back on and you will have to tear it all back apart.



place a nice even bead of silicone on the diff cover and let it sit for about 30 seconds to get tacky, then pop it on and tighten it up.



put the calipers and rotors back on, put the tierod back on the knuckle and tighten the nut to pull it back into place, put a new cotter pin in it, and you're done!



refill the axle housing until oil just starts to come out of the hole, and put the plug back in. put the tires on, take it for a drive, and enjoy your leak free housing.
Awsome write up! way more informing than my crappy manual .(haynes) Thank you ! I'm off to get beer and some parts . Cheers.....
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  #51  
Old January 25th, 2009, 13:57
Destroyer Destroyer is offline
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Re: [Tech Writeup] Replacing the seals on your Dana 30

I have to say it as well, excellent writeup!

One question though-

The seal around the edge of the axle tube, pictured here in reddish/orange, any specs/info on it?


Mine was gray and came out in chunks with the axle seal.

Thanks
-Destroyer
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  #52  
Old January 25th, 2009, 14:00
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GrimmJeeper GrimmJeeper is offline
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Re: [Tech Writeup] Replacing the seals on your Dana 30

that is silicone the factory puts around the axle tubes before they press them into the housing. you can put some silicone around the outside of the seal if you want, but its not required. we didnt do it and its not leaking so far
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  #53  
Old January 25th, 2009, 14:28
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Re: [Tech Writeup] Replacing the seals on your Dana 30

Glad to hear that, thanks for the quick response!
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  #54  
Old January 25th, 2009, 21:21
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Re: [Tech Writeup] Replacing the seals on your Dana 30

Nice write up, I do like the bolt against the Ujoint to remove the unit bearing. I recently changed a unit bearing (that didn't turn out to be the problem...), I used a slide hammer my friend made. Real simple tool, a lug nut welded to some pipe, with a large piece of square tube at the end. Then we used a brake rotor as the hammer. Just do not remove the axle nut before using the slide hammer, it will damage the unit bearing. Oh, and I was installing and later removing a lockright, we didn't remove the tierod... I was ab;e to work the ring gear and housing around it just fine.
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  #55  
Old January 26th, 2009, 04:39
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Thumbs up Re: [Tech Writeup] Replacing the seals on your Dana 30

I must say that this is a quality write-up!! And I agree that this forum NEEDS a Tech/Write-up section for just this kind/quality thread!! Thanks again GrimmJeeper!!
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  #56  
Old February 16th, 2009, 23:17
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Re: [Tech Writeup] Replacing the seals on your Dana 30

Great write-up. Are the torque specs for the bearing caps 45 lbs. ft. or 60? On Stu's webpage and gojeepxj they both list the torque specs to be 45lbs. ft.??
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  #57  
Old February 16th, 2009, 23:24
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Re: [Tech Writeup] Replacing the seals on your Dana 30

thanks!

the jeep FSM we used lists them as 60, but i would check to see what the factory specs are for your model year just to be sure.
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  #58  
Old February 16th, 2009, 23:43
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Re: [Tech Writeup] Replacing the seals on your Dana 30

What year was the XJ you were installing the seals on if ya don't mind me asking?
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  #59  
Old February 16th, 2009, 23:49
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Re: [Tech Writeup] Replacing the seals on your Dana 30

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrtosh View Post
Great write-up. Are the torque specs for the bearing caps 45 lbs. ft. or 60? On Stu's webpage and gojeepxj they both list the torque specs to be 45lbs. ft.??
Check my site - I've been gathering FSM specs as I gather FSMs. I've got most of the Dana FSMs as well - not all, but I have a contact at Dana (and I do need to ping her again...) who is getting me stuff that isn't on the site.

Oddly, the D30 Dana FSM is not on the site!
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  #60  
Old February 17th, 2009, 08:21
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Re: [Tech Writeup] Replacing the seals on your Dana 30

the XJ in the writeup is a 95.
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