Durango Steering Mod

Before anyone runs out and starts tearing into this project....STOP! There's alot of info that you'll need to get from your local Dodge Dealer. This write-up is only intended to supplement the applicable pages from the Dodge FSM. I got mine from the Service Writers at the local dealership. Ask for the Gear Box disassembly/assembly instructions for a 1999 Dodge Truck Durango 4WD V8-5.9L VIN Z LDC
They can download and print it from their www.alldata.com account.

Here's a little write up for those that have read about and considered the Durango Steering box mod, or those that have made the swap and don't have lock to lock steering and want to improve their turning radius.

Step #1) Obtain (or remove your ) '99 Dodge Durango Power Steering Gear Box. (NAPA P/N 27-7588)

Step #2) Remove the snap-ring from the front. I found the best way to do this was to use a putty knife to pry the ring out.

Step #3) Remove the front cover by turning the stub shaft to move the rack piston forward. Inspect the large o-ring and replace as needed. Remove the rack piston BUT BE CAREFULL!! There are 24 ballbearings that are going to come out as well. Twelve are silver and twelve are black. The silver are .001" larger than the black ones. Do Not Loose These!

Step#4 Remove the locknut and adjuster nut from the rear of the gear box.

Step#5 Remove the valve assembly and stub shaft.

Step#6 Remove the spacer from the inside of the gear box case. This is easy if you have a long set of snap ring pliers. I don't so a couple long screwdrivers and a little patience got it done.

Here's the spacer...

Step #7 Remove the sector shaft. Sorry, no pic.
Step #8 Clean all of the parts and seperate the Silver and Black bearings.

If you can't see the color difference use a vernier caliper or micrometer to measure the bearings. Lubricate everything with new Power Steering Fluid (I used DEXTRON III ATF).

Step #9 Instead of buying a special tool (Arbor C-4175) from Dodge I used a piece of heavy paper rolled into a cylinder shape and inserted into the rack piston worm drive bore. Here's my firsy attempt at a booty fab tool using a piece of plastic.

Step#10 Lubricate and insert the ball bearings by alternating between silver and black into the rack piston. Be patient, this is a tedious process. Use a small screw driver to help push the bearings in and don't forget to rotate your homebrew arbor tool to help the bearings move easier.

Step#11 Reinstall the ball guide with the remaining bearings. Again, sorry for the lack of a pic at this point.

Step#12 Reinstall the worm shaft and gently insert the rack piston into the gear box bore. As the worm shaft is turned into the rack piston you'll have to slowly remove the homebrew arbor tool that was used to keep the bearings in place.

Don't be surprised if you have to repeat steps 8 thru 12 a few times. Just take you're time and you'll get the bearings and worm shaft together in the rack piston.

Step#13 Center the teeth of the rack piston in the opening for the sector shaft and then reinstall the sector shaft. Rotate the stub shaft back and forth to make sure all of the parts move smoothly.

Step#14 Reinstall the large o-ring, front cover, and snap ring.

Step#15 Reinstall the valve assembly, lock nut and lock ring.

nice write up- thanks for taking the time to document.

Thanks guys!

BTW, if you are working on a '97 or newer XJ DO NOT allow the steering wheel to rotate while the steering shaft is disconnected from the gear box. you could very well ruin your clockspring. Don't ask me how I know.

There is a warning regarding this in the Haynes Manual, Chapter 10.

Nice write up Frank!

I did this swap quite a while ago and had really bad stop to stop issues. I run the Phat Jeeps Canyon Crawler steering setup which moves the steering pivot point on the knuckles farther out - requiring even more throw from the steering box pitman arm. Removing the interior spacer/snap ring helps for those of you that have your steering links mounted at the factory locations on your knuckles.

In order to maximize the distance the piston can move in the cylinder, remove the 4 tabs on the inside of the front cover as seen here:



The steering rebuilder I bought my Durango box from supplied me with a cover that didn't have these tabs, but he said grinding them off will work just as well.

Removing the spacer inside, and the tabs at the end of the cover gives the box it's full range of travel for the pitman arm.

So this adjustment HAS to be done to the steering box, because I've read about guys who've done the mod and did'nt have steering issues.

I wish I had the confidence in myself to tear that apart and do this mod, I am looking at replacing my stock steering box since it is sqeeking but don't want to lose to much turning radii.

Thanks Troy. Gotta give back to the forum for the knowledge I've gained from others.

Paul,
I'll go out on a limb and strongly siggest doing the mod before installing the box simply because it's less work that way.

POSJ,
Sometimes ya just gotta jump into the deep end of the pool.

paulhead said:

So this adjustment HAS to be done to the steering box, because I've read about guys who've done the mod and did'nt have steering issues.

Click to expand...

I would be one of those guys. No issues whatsoever. I don't think Jeepin Jason had any problem either.

If you want to check mine out, I'm not that far from you.

paulhead said:

So this adjustment HAS to be done to the steering box, because I've read about guys who've done the mod and did'nt have steering issues.

Click to expand...

From what I have gathered through the years it's crap shoot as to whether you'll end up with a box that needs modification or one that doesn't. I'd suggest mounting it and testing (I know it's a drag to mount a box if you just have to pull it), that is what I plan to do whenever I get around to this (probably not until my box goes bad though 'cause I'm lazy :laugh3: )

Sequoia

what is the point of this mod? i have seen it done alot on this forum, is the dodge box stronger? does it have a better turn ratio like the ARG box? thanks

I think I've read better because it is less turns lock to lock, but will be happy to defer to the experts on here.




AN EXPERT IS SOMEONE WHO USED TO BE A SPURT!!!

Ok, to resurect an old thread. I've got the box, got the manuals, got the pdf's, read the writeups, bought the rebuild kit. Between here and this thread on pirate:

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=570869

I'm pretty confident I can go through this Durango box.

So here's my question, and maybe someone can answer it. I marked the output of the two boxes and the durango box doesn't quite have 90 degrees of throw.
Removing the spacer from the inside will increase throw to one side of center, should I machine down the cap on the other end about the same amount?

markw said:

Ok, to resurect an old thread. I've got the box, got the manuals, got the pdf's, read the writeups, bought the rebuild kit. Between here and this thread on pirate:

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=570869

I'm pretty confident I can go through this Durango box.

So here's my question, and maybe someone can answer it. I marked the output of the two boxes and the durango box doesn't quite have 90 degrees of throw.
Removing the spacer from the inside will increase throw to one side of center, should I machine down the cap on the other end about the same amount?

Click to expand...

Why not just adjust your draglink and let the new center be center, and see what happens?

Yes you should use a flapper disc and remove the stops that are part of the cap

cal said:

Why not just adjust your draglink and let the new center be center, and see what happens?

Click to expand...

Cause you'll end up with different steering ratios for left and right.

That's what I was figuring. It didn't make sense to just pull the spacer and not remove an equal amount from the other side. Seal kit is here, so I'm going to tear into it tonight. May do some filming for youtube. I really like the pirate 4x4 rebuild method of putting the worm gear in, then dropping the balls in through the sector shaft hole. I also picked up a second box just in case, but it's probably going to Kevin.

Ok, first box is going back together. I've got the piston and the spool valve assembly in the freezer right now to shrink the orings/seals. I can't believe how simple these things are. I pulled the inner stop, "machined" the cap with a grinder and a nice carbide bit I picked up for my HO head. Replaced all the seals/orings. The part I was fearing will be easy. I swear if I ever have another leaking box, I'll just throw a kit in it. $20 or $200, it's your call.
I'm picking up the second box on Wed. I did film some of this, but it's hard to film and do the work, so I'll get with Kevin and do a steering box rebuild/mod video and toss it up on youtube. There are a couple gotcha's but nothing seriously hard.

I ordered the crok inner.

I will probably need a new PS pump too.

KH

I have also found that doing a longer pitman arm has helped with the decreased turning radius as well. I used a pitman arm out of a mid 80's IROC camero. It is approximately 1" longer. Just FYI it does have less of a drop and it will need to be drilled out.