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2wd front hub axle stub torque

mchulse

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Austin, TX
I'm almost done on my 2wd 2001 XJ front ball joint and wheel hub replacements. I've seen the torque specs for the 36mm axle nut is 175 lbs but it seems pretty high for a 2wd axle stub that serves limited purpose. Also, the axle nuts came off with relative ease so I'm curious if the torque was that high originally.

Does anyone know if that torque spec is correct for a 2wd front axle nut?

Also, more for curiosity sake, what purpose does the axle stubs serve and what could happen if under torqued?

Thanks!
 
Torque should be the same, it's the unit bearing that your holding together!
 
Thanks RCP Phx, makes sense to me!

I had a tough time finding the part # for the nut kit. I ended up ordering the Dorman 05101 Spindle Lock Nut Kit. It says it only fits 4wd but my understanding is that part should be interchangeable between 2wd and 4wd. Once I get it in I'll see if it fits and update.
 
It's exactly the same unit bearing either way (on 92.5 and later... 92.0 and down you would be correct, they use a spindle that takes very low torque, but also don't have a stub shaft) so yes, 175 foot pounds is what you want to use.

Should be the same axle nut for 4wd and 2wd... again 92.5 and later, of course.
 
A word of advice. If you're using a Harbor Freight torque wrench rated to 150 ft lbs, don't take it to 150 and then try to give it a little extra oomph with the same wrench. It'll break. Of course, no one would be stupid enough to try that. Right? :anon:
 
A word of advice. If you're using a Harbor Freight torque wrench rated to 150 ft lbs, don't take it to 150 and then try to give it a little extra oomph with the same wrench. It'll break. Of course, no one would be stupid enough to try that. Right? :anon:

It actually doesn't sound like a bad idea... in theory. I do have that same HF 150 ft lbs torque wrench and opted to rent one from Autozone that goes up to 250 ft lbs since this is about the only job I can think of that will need to go above 150 ft lbs and I was renting a ball joint press, power steering pulley puller, and steering wheel puller (I've been busy).

The real problem I'm going to have to figure out is how to get it torqued without the wheel on. Many years ago I replaced my wheels with 17" Liberty wheels. They look great but the center cap opening is not big enough for either of my 1/2" 36mm sockets. I got the nut off with an impact, thinking "I'll deal with that later". Well it's later (Future Mike always get's screwed by Past Mike)

I've seen people put a tire iron or crow bar between a couple wheel studs and the ground to hold it while torquing them down. Not super keen on this idea as I'm afraid I'll mess up the threads on my new hubs (maybe wrap the crowbar in a towel?)

Another idea is to start the engine and have my wife apply the brakes while I torque them down. Maybe a combination of both might be good?
 
Not admitting I did actually break a HF torque wrench by exceeding its rating limit, I will say that my GF got me a really nice 250 ft lb torque wrench for my birthday. So I scored there!

I'd think that torquing with the brakes applied should do the trick even without a bar against the studs. But if you do go the bar against studs route, maybe stack some lug nuts on the studs to prevert direct contact between the bar and the threads. It might even protect the studs somewhat from the risk of bending.
 
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Nice! A 250 ft lbs wrench for your birthday win party1: (I was a little curious if the hub would get messed up from over tightening or if the wrench would break from exceeding it's spec)

Thanks for the advice on stacking some lug nuts on it. I might double up and have my wife apply the brakes while I also secure it with that method.

Now I just need those new axel nuts to come in and I'll be back on the road; at least until I get into upgrading the steering components, doing a rear disk brake conversion, and adding a powertrax no-slip. My 2wd XJ is too big to fail at this point so the only logical thing is to keep putting money into it. :jester:
 
I use a piece of angle iron that's drilled for several wheel patterns, flywheels, and u-joint yokes. As for torque, I built a "extension bar" that can be used with a hammer on the trail. It can be used with anything 1/2" drive.
P1080495_zpsla6dhudd.jpg

P1080494_zpsrnidbkzq.jpg
 
Took me a minute to figure out how that would work but seems like a pretty handy piece of equipment. Something you welded yourself?
 
Yes , I made that for trail fixes! It's a 2x multiplier(12") so with my body weight of 150# and at 24" out I deliver 300ft/lbs, been doing bugs that way for 50yrs!
 
It's my version of one that's been around for 50+!
6502-2T.jpg
 
I do have that same HF 150 ft lbs torque wrench and opted to rent one from Autozone that goes up to 250 ft lbs since this is about the only job I can think of that will need to go above 150 ft lbs


Last time I had to torque something to 275-ft/lbs, I used a 3-ft breaker bar while standing on cheap spring bathroom scale and just pulled up until it read 92 lbs heavier. You can also do the math and measure where on the breaker bar you need to put your full weight.
 
Slap a rotor on it and jam the thickest chisel or screwdriver that will fit into the rotor vanes, spin it till it hits the caliper mount, torque nut to spec.
 
Slap a rotor on it and jam the thickest chisel or screwdriver that will fit into the rotor vanes, spin it till it hits the caliper mount, torque nut to spec.

What he said. Thats how we do them at work. A good stout #2 screw driver works very well. Make sure the metal shank contacts the brake.caliper stuff, and the screw driver won't even be worse for wear.:thumbup:
 
Slap a rotor on it and jam the thickest chisel or screwdriver that will fit into the rotor vanes, spin it till it hits the caliper mount, torque nut to spec.

Never thought of doing it that way! I'll keep that in mind next time.

I ended up putting the rotor on and putting on the lug nuts to keep it straight. I had my wife start the engine and apply the brakes while I torqued it to 175 ft lbs. Worked like a charm.

Also, Dorman 05101 Spindle Lock Nut Kit is the correct part number for the 2wd also (though it only lists 4wd). You do have to keep your spring washer as it doesn't come with one oddly enough.

Glad to have her back on the road!
 
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